mickeyw

I may just put them somewhere a safe until the weather returns to normal. They were all perfectly secure until roughly a month ago

Ralph the outer rings are hanging there so I don't lose them 😁 One day I'll fix the door trim...

The door trim is in very poor shape anyway, and I haven't refitted it since welding some bottoms to the doors.

That's gotta be a job for an MMA machine. You mention replenishment of consumables, but you still need rods/wire/filler with any kind of welder. With MIG & TIG you have a gas bottle to lug about too.

Just recently my 110's window winder screw cover caps keep falling off. They've not done it before, yet all of a sudden all 4 doors want to play this game. I can only attribute this behavior to the current super hot weather having caused the plastic to expand enough to make them a loose fit. Has anyone else experienced this, especially any of us living in hot countries?

I've used Hyper clean and Jizer in the past. Both gave good results when followed by a jet wash. I cleaned ali parts in some alkaline degreaser last time a rebuilt a V8. A mere 20 second dip took all the carbon staining off the timing and rocker covers. Just make sure you wear good PPE and wash thoroughly with fresh water afterwards.

Or even the in-tank pump from a carb'd V8 90. That's probably about the correct depth of pickup already.

Stainless crimps? Can't say I've come across then before. I thought most were tin plated copper.

There was a chap at Newbury back in April, buying up every Defender bulkhead he could get his hands on, to rebuild and resell. Many of them were REALLY ropey, yet he had paid what I would consider an eye watering amount for them in that state, so I guess he'll be asking a fair bit for them. He was from Doncaster way if I recall. I'll see if the mate I was with can remember his name.

I nearly spat my coffee across the desk when I read this title Pretty obvious who the author was going to be though Useful to know about Vet glue Nige. Thanks for the link. Quite a bit pricier than the stuff in the pound shop though ...

Hopefully someone else will confirm this, but I'm fairly sure all pre Puma Defenders all use the same master cylinder, therefore that would be my choice.

No experience of ACR's work, but I've been running LPG in V8s for 20 odd years now. Supply isn't always straight forward, and if travelling out of your familiar areas routes need pre-planning around refuelling points. The LPG locator websites aren't always 100% up to date either. For some reason our government hasn't ever backed or encouraged LPG as a road fuel. The biggest problem for me, and this is a v8 thing really, is carrying enough fuel for a decent range between fill ups. An my RRC I managed to carry 100 litres among 4 underslung tanks, but my 110 goes off road, so no underslung tanks in that. Reliability of LPG systems has never been an issue. In more recent years I've used MegaJolt to provide dual ignition maps to optimise for both fuels. It's been handy for water proofing reasons too.

Like James says, they're reputed to be notably better at cooling the interior than the later version. However I have never seen that style fitted to such a later year vehicle.

A thumbs up from me here too George. You're making some great films, and I've watched every one and been subscribed to SOUP since early on. I've pointed a few colleagues to your channel too - from the bike and hot hatch worlds to name a couple. They have different specific interests, although all motoring related. They've all commented on what great videos you've made, and how much better they are than a lot of other YT content. Alas I don't often remember to 'like' a video after watching it, but that certainly doesn't mean I didn't enjoy it. IMO folk will often like things without saying as much, but the haters are always let you know. Don't be discouraged by the lack of likes. Have you recently changed that channel name from your own name to Soup Classic Motoring? I thought for a moment I'd been unsubscribed too.

I have this size in the original KM1 pattern on my 110. They're on 7x16 black modulars and work well providing good steering lock. The average modular rim has far greater offset than my LR alloy or Disco 1 steel rim.

Not a bad suggestion ^^^ But - is is to do with a providing a single continuous outer cut path for the CNC profile cutting? Looks like the profile was cut by plasma or similar. Nuts - I think I'd stick with a decent quality flanged nyloc nut.

It's been a while since I played with a steering box, but don't the splines on the output shaft of the box prevent rotational misalignment of the drop arm by means of a missing spline? Beyond that, I would think drag link length adjustment is the next thing to look at; but unless you altered that when changing the box I don't see why it should the that far out. Just checking my understanding of the OP... Are you saying that on a right turn the hub doesn't move enough to contact the lock stop, or simply that the lock stop keeps the tyre 50mm off the radius arms? If the latter is true the lock stop needs adjustment. Was the steering lock OK before you swapped the box?

Bought nothing but sold enough to make it worth the effort. Saw Ross (LR4E) and sold Nige some diffs. Bit of a moist end to the day, but feel better for being home and showered. Now for dinner...

Hopefully you'll see the forum sticker in the back window of my Trident green 110 CSW

A vice for you George https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Machine-Vice/253523055018, if you're quick Freight is probably a bit £££, but you could always take a road trip in Tina....

I have a Britpart version, which seems to be a rip off close copy of the Mantec one. I have to say that I have no complaints of the carrier, or its price. The wheel mounts on the same line as the original door mounting. I run 255/85R16s on modular rims, so pretty heavy, and large diameter. Door handle and key access is not a problem.

This is one area I'm happy to concede that chequer plate is worth fitting. The wing tops as they are just aren't man enough for standing on. My 110 has a pond on each wing after a shower. I'm planning to fit chequer plate at some point. I'll need to force to wing up a LOT from below to make it meet. Then rivets will be installed in appropriate positions.

yeah, I'm hoping to go and sell some surplus 5h1t useful bits n bobs.

I have a surplus H14, cable, bumper and hydraulic drive motor, should you be that way inclined. You'd need to source the hydraulic system to drive it though. As others have said, pumps can be mounted on the front of the engine. There are kits available to mount a pump, either where an air con pump might go, or even direct crank driven.

This is what I used to re-seal my floor panels. Not too mucky to handle, and squashes into the gaps, allowing for the varied gap widths. Not too much of a pain to get apart again either.