LandyManLuke

If you've got the A127 type alternator, and are experiencing an over or under-voltage fault, it's possible to change the regulator and brush pack relatively quickly and cheaply. This type of alternator is easily identified by the curved regulator and stud terminals Some poetic license is taken with the photos, as they were taken in the wrong order. - Remove the battery +ve lead for safety, even though you don't need to remove the alternator wiring. - To create room to work, remove the air filter and intercooler pipes. - Slacken off the alternator belt tensioner, and remove the bolt and/nut on the alternator end. - Remove the belt from the pulley - Undo the two bolts holding the bottom of the alternator, 10mm socket required, IIRC - You can now lift and rotate the alternator, to get to the back. - The regulator is secured by three bolts, which have really small heads. I can't remember the size - You need to disconnect the regulator supply wire (pictured), which is a spade connector. - the regulator/brush pack can be removed by rotating it slighlty and withdrawing it from the housing. - It's worth checking for excessive wear where the brushes make contact with the rings on the shaft. - Insert a straightened paperclip through the brush housing to hold the brushes in. this prevents damage to them on fitting. - Connect the feed wire. - bolt the regulator pack on. - re-mount the alternator, remount the belt and tension etc. - re plumb the air pipes. - connect the +ve battery lead. Hope that helps. Luke - Insert the pack into the alternator housing

Not thought about it a great deal, but could you not put a suitably sized resistor across the LED? I don't think the polarity of the LED will be an issue, though it possibly might not show an alternator diode fault, when it's possible current might flow the opposite way to usual. The alternator only needs exciting to get it going, then the regulator takes over.

Microcat only shows one M8 washer. I'll have a look at the 90 later.

Ok, I've got a few pictures somewhere, and the Durite part number. I'll sort something out.

Which alternator do you have? If it's an A127 type the regulator/brush pack is only about 12 quid and you can change it in ten minutes.

Anything over 14.4v (typically) and you're gassing the battery, not good at all.

Haven't you just bolted them on the wrong way round?....

cue SimonR.....

Cheers, very nice indeed!!

A few drips down the intake is fine, as long as you do it often. The oilers get in the way. The small length of hose prevents fatigue on the hose, PCL connector and the tool as you move it whilst using it. You also get better clearance, as a PCL adds a few inches to the tool, where as going straight to hose only adds flexible hose. You can also get ball-swiveled male PCL connectors, which kind of do the same thing. I've got a couple of feet of hose on some of my tools, like my air ratchet (which is long already), the rattle gun, and the air nibbler (swivel connector makes it much easier to manouvre)

Difflock's MTF for the gearbox if you fancy being posh. I'm trying it and it's made the box a bit smoother. It's quite dear though.

It's been down for about 24 hrs now.

This is what happens when people entertain those emails that say 'Dear User, please validate your account' or 'please confirm your details' etc I had two only the other day.

Hi Si, How much does your design affect prop-shaft length?

Any chance of a side-on pic of the 36"s? they look good

Shouldn't be an 'earth lead' connected to the alternator, as such. heat is a sign of a dead short, and one shifting a lot of current - not good. The alternator should be earthed to the block. the 24v battery pair should also be earthed to the block, gearbox, chassis etc as per the 12v battery. the only heavy current wire from the 24v alternator should go to the second of the "24v" battery pair, which is also where the solenoid pack should take take it's feed for the winch from.

That's very little difference, considering they're a remould!

Rob mentioned Aquarium air line fittings, I don't think a standard push-fit, in the pneumatic/industrial sense will part if pulled, They grip like mad. I use them on my fridge compressor set up and you can't pull the pipe out until you depress the locking ring, and a branch won't be able to do that.

If it's the same Hollows Farm site i've stayed on, it's gorgeous. But it is basic. The area for caravans is around the corner, nearer the loo block, away from us student types

6x9 here, 10cm axial speakers in the headlining. sound quite nice for a defender!!

I had 255/85 with standard (12yo) springs and they rubbed slightly on articulation. Fine for normal use, arches untrimmed.

King Offroad have them on their site, no prices though.

have a look round http://www.mig-welding.co.uk, lots of useful info.

I've not used a VSR for winching situations, but i suspect relay 'chatter' (hysteresis) may be a problem. If the winch current exceeds the alternator output current, the voltage will drop, as the winch draws from the batteries. This will cause the VSR to open, which will recharge the engine battery quickly, but leave the aux battery on its own to cope with the winch. Then the VSR will close as the main battery is charged again, then it'll open again as the batteries are parallelled, the winch draws current etc etc. In short, a VSR is more suited to 'engine off' situations. A heavy duty relay such as X-eng's Durite relay is probably the better way to go. Ultimately, unless your alternator outputs the same current as the winch draws, you are running on borrowed time as you flatten the batteries. The size of your battery bank determines how much borrowed time you have. The output of the alternator determines when you operate on this borrowed time, and how quickly you can earn it back, when you're not winching.

Have a read of this, might help explain the options a bit.