ballcock

Excellent example of making the most of space whilst not needing it.

I removed mine with no trouble, But I would recommend a non setting sealant like they use on caravans when refitting.

Apparently it's blue or red Land Rover Discovery 300Tdi, that lost over 100,000 miles in one year. 😕

You are not likely going to find a suitable moulded case to suit what tools you have. I would consider a range of clip lid plastic kitchen containers and pack various items in each. They will take up less space and keep them drier. It is also easier to stash smaller boxes than one large one.

The idea is one I have thought about, but the build looks a little too much diy. One of the members of the club I belong to has built a very professional looking camper box on the rear of his Disco with a popup roof which looks the part and has served them well on trips abroad.

Congratulations Hope to see you at a show with it.

If you are on about extended width arches then they should be reasonably obvious. but if you look underneath I believe the original arches are the only ones that bridge the gap to the inner arch where as the others finish at the wing. hope this helps.

if it has an aircon rad in front of the radiator is this blocked? My 3.9 would over heat only under load ie towing or steep hill, I finally removed the aircon and cured my problem.

Whilst I had my dash board out I removed the wiper wheel boxes stripped them apart cleaned them and regreased them, as for the heater box just make sure it is free of rust and that the controls all work, you can also add some small diameter ducting to fit side window demisting vents, there are posts on here somewhere.

It's not that difficult to do. and while your in there you can remove the wiper spindles and re-grease them.check the heater box and add side window ducting if you wanted to.

Have you tried pulling each fuse in turn and squirting some electrical contact cleaner in, clean the fuse blades with some fine emery cloth and pop them back.

Another consideration is the throat and spindle travel the 50mm ones are often a pain. I managed to get an older unit with an adjustable table and 80mm travel, it has drilled every thing I have thrown at it. It also came with a cross travel milling vice which is also a good addition on any drill.

It would not need an IVA if it has no chassis mods and uses all the original running gear as far as I am aware.

It's an idea I have frequently thought about. I have always thought a forward control would be ideal on the 100" chassis. I have wondered if an old Mitsubishi cab would fit the bill. Other than the front styling I think that looks quite a good project.

Looks nice I have two of them. What engine? Mine are both V8s. The seat is probably the switch, I think there is a how to repair post in the tec archive. Cruise control on mine I have never got around to repairing I rely on the adaptive system. ( throttle control ) The aircon on my one I removed as the rad was causing the engine to under cool. As for the heated screen one of mine has various cracks and leaks like mad through the top seal but the element still works the other was replaced years ago and although working I find it almost useless. Good luck with it.

Can you feel the clutch plate spring pressure through the pedal? Has the clutch just been replaced or if it was attached to the fly wheel when you installed the engine? Have you tried to start the engine with it in gear and the clutch depressed? ( make sure the hand brake is on and working chock wheels etc,) If the plate is seized this might release it.

Finally got the bolts back in, I had two drill two holes in the rear foot well upright and still hit the bolts in with a hammer. After bolting the strut top bracket to the cross member I had to remove both the shock and anti roll bar to jack the body high enough to get the bottom cup into the a frame. all back together so move onto the next problem.

I have a four post, an old Bradbury, which I bought through a bankruptcy sale from a Saab dealership. It was running three phase but I rewired it to single phase and added a few capacitors. I personally prefer the four post for it's stability although it hasn't got the wheels free bars I do have a cross beam jack. Unfortunately when I need to use it I normally have something else sat on it. I would not want to be without it now.

Are the spacers fitted to allow the alloys to fit or are the axles the later type allowing alloys to fit straight to the hub?

This is my problem. Removing the strut or replacing it with the bolts already in situ is easy but as I removed mine with the body off I gave no thought to the bolt clearance for refitting, If I had been aware I would have fitted fresh bolts before refitting the body.

Yes I've tried from both sides but there isn't any clearance. It seems they need to be fitted before the body is sat onto the chassis.

Hi Western thanks for the reply. The holes you mention in the cross member only allow the two bottom bolts to align, the problem I have is getting the two top bolts into the cross member there appears to be no room to align them to the holes as the bottom corner of the rear footwell is in the way. I have considered leaving the strut off but would prefer to fit if not too much trouble.

I found I have a problem. I removed my Boge strut during the rebuild of my 110 Csw with the intent of refurbishing it and refitting at a later date. I have finally got around to getting new ball joints, gaiters and bolts, but here lies the problem. I tried to fit the new bolts into the cross member today only to find it impossible to fit the top two bolts as there is not enough clearance to align the holes. Is it a matter of lifting the body slightly off the chassis? or is there a way I have over looked? Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

Could you try a magnet on a wire?

Aren't they useful for squirting a release oil into the thread.