ballcock

If your Discovery is anything like one of mine it could be anywhere, I have removed the windscreen and found numerous places around the edge where it has rusted through. The worst places were along the top on the passenger side and the bottom corner on the drivers side where about three sections meet on the top of the A post bend. This area can be checked by removing the front wings and you can then also see how much of the lower A post is solid.

I would hang the doors first then fit the parts. Make sure you fit the latches first, if you are fitting new runners mark the frames where the self tappers go in and use the old runners as cutting templates. Take your time they aren't difficult just fiddly.

Where possible I use two hammers im;pacting on opposite sides, all you need is a slight deflection in the cone for it to come apart. I have never used that type of splitter I used to use the fork type you hit in between but these ruin the rubbers.

I would strip the old engine first and see what actually needs replaceing.

Have you checked the chassis to make sure it's square? Check the rear axle is parallel to the chassis with a straight edge along the wheel rims. Has it got a lift kit as this will move the front axle to one side if not using an adjustable panhard rod?

I replaced the lock on mine after some scum nicked keys from my lock up, I was able to get a pair of locks with matching keys from some one on Ebay. If you are buying a new lock it might be worth considering buying a set of locks with matching keys to use on other things on the truck save having to have multiple keys for various locks.

As I say a can of worms, I have my opinion and you are entitled to yours.

This is a different can of worms. The fan only needs to run if the radiator is not doing its job. That is how the viscous unit works, so the temp control should be on the return or low level on the radiator. a better system would be a two stage temp control with either two fans or high and low speeds. Let the fight begin.

The term used is normally "crabbing" when the rear wheels do not follow the line of the front. If your trailing arm is bent it will cause this as it pulls the rear axle out of alignment with chassis. a replacement will hopefully correct it, but it would be worth checking the chassis for twist. easiest way to this would be to measure diagonally from four points on the chassis extremities and ensure they are equal. I believe there is a post on the forum describing this check somewhere.

No, but newer licence holders are limited to the number of seats. As an old git I can still drive a twelve seater, as long as it's not for hire or reward. My 110 is a daily driver, I find it perfectly adequate in modern driving conditions. comfortable enough with reasonable fuel consumption. My Disco 1 V8 on the other hand is running on heavy duty springs feels every bump and drinks like a fish.

I thought the pump shaft had a woodruff key to align it on the shaft but having just checked a spare pump I have, there is a key slot on the shaft but not on the pulley adaptor so theoretically it would be possible to do as you suggest. Personally for the effort required and the risk of getting it wrong I would pull the case cover and do it properly. The extra effort to remove the pump to fit the boost ring whilst the timing is being sorted is minimal. Just realised 300 tdi mines a 200tdi.

Having stripped the cartridge out. i decided to buy a new standard unit. Ordered Thursday, arrived Friday, fitted Sunday less than £100. All up and running nicely.

All that bling and none of it on show.

This is why I try to get a part number first.

I had tried a 1/2" AF but it was as loose as a 13mm , I then tried an old 1/2" AF ring spanner which fitted perfectly I snapped one bolt undid 2 but the last has rounded off so I shall cut the head off as I only want the cartridge. 1/2" AF should be 12.7mm but the tolerances on some are just too much. Will take more care dismantling the Defender one. Still haven't decided whether to get a new hybrid unit.

Unfortunately it needs replacing, although I have a turbo off a Discovery 200 TDi it's the wrong orientation. If having to strip two apart to make a serviceable unit. I just wondered if it would be more beneficial to bite the bullet and buy a new cartridge. As a side question what size are the bolts holding the cartridge to the exhaust side as they seem to be a little shy of 13mm but a bit bigger than 12mm?

Reviving an old thread as my turbo has just thrown it's toys out, what was the consensus on these hybrid turbos, are they worth fitting or no extra benefit?

Try the gauze off a stainless steel sieve.

Can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the ignition on? I have had two that the supply to the pump is problematic due to the connector in the passenger foot well getting corroded by water ingress. The plug which is tucked up on the side of the passenger foot well needs to be pulled apart and apply some contact cleaner, connect and disconnect the plug a few times to improve contact.

Glad to hear it's sorted.

On the early Webasto's the only difference between the petrol and diesel versions was the gauze the fuel burnt on I'm not sure about the newer versions. If you get a parts manual you may see which parts are common to both. I personally would have a diesel unit with a second tank which allows you to run the heater on red diesel or heating oil. I have just picked up a newer unit to replace my old one but this needs a canbus signal to operate it came out of a VW. So I am looking for a timer or telestart at the right price.

As said, take them out clean them up and refit with a non-setting sealant similar to that used on caravan windows. Allows for the different expansion rates.

No that's just a stand alone timer you can buy similar to run almost anything.

If your clock is powering up then it's getting a suitable supply which means either the switch isn't operating or the crimps aren't quite right. use a multi meter and check input voltage and also the voltage output at the terminals. The light on the clock probably only lets you know that the heater should be on. if you haven't got a multi meter then use the old bulb holder method.

I have no experience with the T-max pump, but if it is similar to my Ring pump ensure that if you change the fitting it is permanently open. The pump must not be isolated as there is no safety valve system.