ballcock

As said above probable faulty brake hose. If the caliper was sticking releasing the fluid pressure would make no difference. Try flexing the hose instead of slackening the nipple to see if it releases the other possibillity is muck in the caliper stopping the fluid returning which might clear by bleeding fresh fluid through.

I have read that and others that all point to needing a W bus or Can bus signal hence my previous posts. But as I am always willing to learn I shall see if my unit will power on with a 12v feed to the plug. The unit I have came out of a VW.

I've always just eased them in at the bore top one at a time.

As far as I know the Thermotop V requires a W bus signal or Can bus to operate. Please enlighten me otherwise.

Mines on hold for a while. The timer I bought doesn't appear to be sending out a signal niether 12v or W bus so looking for an alternative. You an use a remote as long as it operates a W bus signal.

I wouldn't claim it as mine I'm sure it has been done before.

That's an interesting read, I learnt some of that years ago but a good reminder and some new lessons to learn. Thanks

If your wheels aren't as heavy as later ones could you make a wide "u" shape bracket to hang the spare over the offside rear panel. As youhave no barrel role on the sides it would sit flush down the side and with rubber to protect it and on the inside some thing to pack the difference like a "G" clamp effect.

I would hate to see those being used on green lanes on a regular basis.

Optimil make a demountable steering wheel boss and a dome unit which fits in place so you can't attach mole grips to steer it. I bought one for mine not cheap but people waste more on bling.

For £40 it would be worth a punt if you have the batteries.

The earlier 110 had a different tub to the Defender era not sure what year they changed. There is a step in the wheel box near the rear. Those panels are replaceable on yours.

When you say the fuel pump isolated, do you mean the stop solenoid supply disconnected? There was a post on the forum a little while ago covering a similiar issue with the pump over revving when started after being stood for a while. I believe the cause to be the mechanism sticking.

I am in the process of fitting a thermotop V to my Defender. The installation manuals are easy to find on line. I have bought a 1533 timer to run mine which has a W bus output which hopefully will make it work. The unit I have is out of VW which is Audi badged and has a different plug to the Land Rover units. I was talking to a company at the Land Rover show at Stoneleigh the other weekend who make leads up for these units. They also make a unit which triggers a w bus output with a 12v input signal which sounded good value for money. The company is called futuranet and appear to be quite active with the Disco 3 forum. I have no connection with them but they seem to know what they are talking about. On a seperate note the fuel pumps also act as a metering pump so you need the correct pump for the heater type.

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I used this one http://Turbocharger Cartridge Land-Rover Defender 2.5 TDI 80kw 200 TDI 465171 ETC8751 I also changed it with the manifold still in situ. But you will need a large circlip pliers.

If you have the dimensions try Sealmasters in Cardiff. I have used them many times for lots of different seals. http://www.sealmasters.co.uk/

If you have a supply to the solenoid with the ignition in the on position but lose it when you crank I would look at the replacement ignition switch as a starting point.

Why not just cut, solder and heat shrink? Far cheaper no risk of poor connections. Stagger the cuts to reduce the bulk in one spot.

I wasn't suggesting you didn;t fit them properly but I have seen bushes fail prematurely when they have been tightened before the full weight has been put on the suspension putting the bush in constant torsion.

Bearmach gives a three year warranty on their products. Have you contacted them about it? Were they fitted correctly? I have not had a problem with their bushes that I have used.

I lifted my 110 CSW body off using two farm jacks by myself, it was a rather nerve racking experience. I supported it on two steel beams and concrete blocks. Having removed the front end I only had to clear the levers and wheels. As others have suggested use smaller rear wheels or remove them and lower onto a trolley. I didn't think of it. You will find as you start to lift the body there are things you have forgotten to disconnect so take it slowly and check every inch or two. Putting it back on I almost lost it I should have had help, but managed to stop it toppling, another strain on the nerves. It would have been better if I had a flat area not a slight slope.

The Boge strut has probably been removed when faulty, Mine thankfully still works fine. I would suggest standard 110 spring from a newer model that hasn't got a levelling unit and if you intend carrying excessive weight occasionally consider fitting air assisters for when needed. Standard bushes are fine I re-bushed a spare set of arms so only had to swap them over, a local company wouldn't charge too much to push in and out.

I understand what you are going to do, so why not just switch the wires at the switch? You will also need to alter any trailer plug to suit.

The only factory made hole is where they fit the glass.