ballcock

Mine is due shortly, same as yourself a year after a rebuild I hope I have the same outcome. Congratulations

I have a set from Bearmach on the rear doors of my CSW and cannot fault them unlike the set I fitted to the front which I bought new many years ago from the Land Rover orphanage at a show.

I used two lengths of 4 x 2 clamped to the chassis with some short lengths down to where the top rail fits, the body went back on near perfectly.

I went and picked up a few bargains, nothing great just a few odds and ends. Rear door, 88" sides for the 110, a bit of racking, a set of wheels and a few little bits. enjoyed the day pity about the rain.

They look standard fit for Range Rover, Discovery 1, and Defender, there is a good range of after market options to choose from. The other point to consider is if the vehicle has a lift kit fitted.

It could be the clock spring in the steering wheel these often cause various problems

If they are solid copper you can re anneal them by heating them to cherry red and leaving them cool, as good as new.

Most likely cause.

Has it got air-con? If so is the alloy radiator blocked or the radiator filled with debris? I had this on one of mine I removed the air-con rad and problem solved, the alloy had deteriorated and not allowing enough air through to the rad, Not a case of overheating more a case of under cooling.

In my case it wasn't a question of ability, purely the best use of time as I had stripped the 110 off the chassis with all new brake lines. The calipers were an excellent price straight from Bearmach and my time was used to do more important tasks.

I have ordered some of the weep vents as above, many thanks for the link.

I looked at rebuilding my front calipers but allowing the time and parts I decided a new pair from Bearmach were more cost effective and good value for money. I can't fault the fitting or the finish still looking good a year later.

There was a recent topic on this. I believe the tell tail light is live fed from each indicator side and earths through the other side,For Leds the feeds to the bulb are fed together through diodes and a separate earth is fitted to the bulb. Some body who knows better will soon correct me.

Having made two attempts at fitting mine with the seal wrongly fitted to the screen, I checked the old rubber for correct orientation then with the cord in and liquid soap, a soft clamp either end just to stop it pushing the end out, pulling the cord gently it slipped in with no problem a few slaps as said to settle it and job done.

Just because your rad is getting hot doesn't mean your stat is working, as said refill the system if you slacken each heater hose in turn you can vent it by squeezing the rad hose or disconnect the pipes with the cap on and top up until full there reconnect and run up to temp ensuring that the rad pipe isn't warming slowly as the engine warms it should remain reasonably cool until the engine reaches temp and the stat opens.

Could be your thermostat, if faulty it won't allow the system to warm up. If the system doesn't warm up the water doesn't expand therefore not creating any pressure in the system. Even in these low temperatures it would struggle to get hot with the cold air around the engine. Although this of course doesn't allow for water loss.

That's what I thought.

I always thought the pump acted as a metering device.

When I did mine I just used a suitable sized rubber grommet but I am still looking for suitable outlets.

Unplug them at the seat and see if you have power getting there, if not it's a supply problem, if yes it's the seat pad.

My Delorean did this after a quick kick to the flux capacitor all was well.

Why put on axle stands? Why not just inflate the tyres to their max or use wooden wedges either side of the tyres to maintain their shape.

I used a 5 litre fuel can with a take off pipe fitting under the bonnet on my Discovery, I could then use any fuel I wanted. As I had a few litres of a diesel miss-fuel to use up and I could also use red diesel if I wanted.

There is a good chance that they are the original keys, if the central locking has been continuously used the barrels may have seized up. try lubricating the barrels with a release agent and gently rock the key in the barrel to see if it frees off.

Connect a jump lead to the starter motor terminal and also to earth then hopefully your remote will work.