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This mornings project


Stellaghost

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Maybe but then using a fine thread blah blah blah would have helped too. As it was this puller cost me £50 for two bits of bar (used one so far), £15 for the bearing  and £4 for the nuts. They happened to all be in stock in the local tractor factors and (hopefully) it's a one off.

To date this has saved me about £500 for getting a local engine over haulers / machine shop to extract them so I'm happy with the outcome. It wasn't about building a perfect puller.

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15 hours ago, Ed Poore said:

 Although freezing them before hand (from someone who's done it before) means they slide in fairly easily.

Agree, you should have a vendor that sells dry ice in the area, put whatever lube you need to on the barrel side and then pop it in a plastic bag to prevent condensation and into the dry ice for a few minutes.

Make sure it's properly aligned and have a block and a sturdy buggering stick at hand to ease the last bit in if it gets recalcitrant, or do the job as close to the press as you can for the final push, if needed. A bit of heat to the block will also help, blast it with a heat gun for a while or an LP gas torch to expand the bore holes a tad.

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Perhaps it's not obvious but this isn't a Land Rover engine (Perkins 1004.4 out of my JCB 2CX), the bare block alone weighs the same as a fully dressed Tdi...

Our chest freezer is down at -24°C so that should be cold enough for them overnight. It's possible to fit it inside my press (capable of taking something 5ft tall inside and it is just wide enough) but moving around the block is a PITA especially as I'll have to make another frame for it to sit on inside the press. What I plan on doing is tacking a couple of bars to the 30mm plate and that way it can be placed underneath the block on the stand and the same puller that was used to pull it out will be used to pull it in.

Another possibility is to weld the box and plates together and drill the base plate (got another large piece of 20mm scrap somewhere, might have some 40mm that's big enough) so that I can clamp it to the head. That's what the special Perkins tool does and basically the puller gets reversed into a pusher. I think I cut the box tall enough to accommodate that setup, if not I've still got 5ft left of this "offcut" from gate-posts or there's always another 15m of it up in the vegetable garden.

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40 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

Perhaps it's not obvious but this isn't a Land Rover engine (Perkins 1004.4 out of my JCB 2CX), the bare block alone weighs the same as a fully dressed Tdi...

Our chest freezer is down at -24°C so that should be cold enough for them overnight. It's possible to fit it inside my press (capable of taking something 5ft tall inside and it is just wide enough) but moving around the block is a PITA especially as I'll have to make another frame for it to sit on inside the press. What I plan on doing is tacking a couple of bars to the 30mm plate and that way it can be placed underneath the block on the stand and the same puller that was used to pull it out will be used to pull it in.

Another possibility is to weld the box and plates together and drill the base plate (got another large piece of 20mm scrap somewhere, might have some 40mm that's big enough) so that I can clamp it to the head. That's what the special Perkins tool does and basically the puller gets reversed into a pusher. I think I cut the box tall enough to accommodate that setup, if not I've still got 5ft left of this "offcut" from gate-posts or there's always another 15m of it up in the vegetable garden.

Could you use the puller the same..... but with the block upside down? Would that be any easier? 

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2 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Could you use the puller the same..... but with the block upside down? Would that be any easier? 

 

42 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

What I plan on doing is tacking a couple of bars to the 30mm plate and that way it can be placed underneath the block on the stand and the same puller that was used to pull it out will be used to pull it in.

:rolleyes:

I could flip the block upside down potentially but that means adjusting my stand. Although I did have a thought of seeing if I could find a cement mixer gearbox to turn it into a gear driven rotary one, would be vastly more useful (possibly). Though by the time I've faffed about doing that I could have just simply spent the time on my knees working on it as is. I built the stand so that I should hopefully have enough space to work on it in this orientation - I'll probably regret that when I come to putting the crank back in and so on but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. Worst case I'll just put a sheet of wood onto my surface table / work bench and just put it upside down on that or on the floor on a pallet and built it up that way.

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as above , i would suggest using a sturdy piece of wood and a big hammer for the last bit , using a puller means the liner will get warm and be really tight , because it take's some time to set this up .

as mentioned above , use a heatgun to heat the block a bit .

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's getting a bit tidier now, honest...

Figured out why the John Deere ride on I'm selling didn't fire up. Bad wiring (in me), had the lever for the mower deck engaged not disengaged so one of the dozen safeties was active. Just need a new steering rack to arrive for it and I can put the deck on it and deliver it to the people who are buying it.

In the meantime it's moved sheds so that's freed up a bunch of space. My trouble is I like being able to work on projects inside because I can and up until yesterday we've had a shocking summer. Just the projects tend to be big so I like having free space inside to bring them inside.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/21/2023 at 1:50 AM, hurbie said:

…. using a puller means the liner will get warm and be really tight , because it take’s some time to set this up .

as mentioned above , use a heatgun to heat the block a bit .

If you can partly assemble it and then get a plastic bag of cardice into the cylinder that should help to keep it colder.  Any condensation can be removed later by WD40, brake cleaner or acetone.

M ike

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...
Just now, elbekko said:

It looks pretty good. Maybe knock the bits of blue on the boat down a bit with a flap disk?

I did wonder about the blue bits on the boat myself....convinced myself it could be seawater splashing up ....lol

Regards Stephen

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Just now, landroversforever said:

Taking the blue away on the boat would make those bits shiny again :( 

It would, realistically I would need to polish the ship back and start again, I will take it into work next week and see if the guy I'm making it for is happy with it, his opinion counts the most really I suppose

Regards Stephen

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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

I did wonder about the blue bits on the boat myself....convinced myself it could be seawater splashing up ....lol

Regards Stephen

Oh, it definitely could be :D Just nitpicking really. Not sure how terrible it would look to have those few spots shiny instead of blue though, might be ok without having to start all over?

But as you say, the guy you're making it for is the important opinion to get :)

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