paime Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 After driving about 100 miles on rough forest tracks last week my lower OSF caliper bolt rattled itself out and fell off leaving me with a loose caliper and a bit of a problem! I need to fix it permanently somehow but i don't want to get a hole new swivel assembly. Can i get away with using a helicoil insert and, if so, is M10 the right size? Any hints or tips with using them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 Are you sure it needs a helicoil and not just decent threadlock? Those bolts should be threadlocked in. I guess a helicoil should be fine if needed but I dont know if I would trust it for that function! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 A helicoil will be perfectly acceptable in that use if the thread is indeed damaged. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibex94 Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 Helicoil will be fine, however have a good look a the thread form and make sure that is at fault first. So if you can tighten the bolt up to the specified torque then I would suggest there is a problem with the thread form and as Reb says give it a drop of loctite. If you end up helicoiling it then its easiest to get a kit which will have everything you need for the job; drill, tap, inserts and tool. A drop of cutting fluid won't go amis when it comes to tapping and you'll probably need to find a tap wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 When I eventually made it home I tried a new caliper bolt and it didn't catch any thread at all. It's very strange as I had managed to torque it fine when I put the brakes on 6 months ago or so and I'm not sure how it managed to strip the threads then fall out. Do I get the same size helicoil kit (M10) or does the insert drop it down a few sizes so I'll need an M8 bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 You drill it out to suit the next size up, and put the insert in that brings it down to the original size Do check the thread pitch, feels like they may be metric fine... but don't quote me on it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 4 hours ago, Bowie69 said: You drill it out to suit the next size up, and put the insert in that brings it down to the original size Do check the thread pitch, feels like they may be metric fine... but don't quote me on it. Would this be the right one then? https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/m10-x-1-25-thread-repair-kit/ There's also a 1.5mm kit but not sure which one to get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 6 minutes ago, paime said: Would this be the right one then? https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/m10-x-1-25-thread-repair-kit/ There's also a 1.5mm kit but not sure which one to get. You'll have to check the bolt. M10x1.5 is the standard pitch, M10x1.25 is a non standard thread. Going back to the original question.... has it actually damaged the full thread? or just the last section? Some pictures would be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 (edited) It's quite difficult to get a decent angle on it but here are a couple of shots. Really difficult to tell if the threads are duff the whole way through but when i put a new bolt in it barely got any grip at all so i'm guessing it's completely knackered. Edit: I've just realised it's M12, not M10 https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/SYP500090 Edited May 25, 2021 by paime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 Metric fine then, upon checking the part number! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 Are you trying a 'normal' bolt in it or the matching fine pitch? If its a standard pitch bolt they can be a little under diameter and feel like nothing is engaging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 14 minutes ago, landroversforever said: Are you trying a 'normal' bolt in it or the matching fine pitch? If its a standard pitch bolt they can be a little under diameter and feel like nothing is engaging. It is a 'normal' caliper bolt but the first time it went in everything was fine and i managed to torque it up no bother. I had a similar issue on another swivel housing so i'm starting to think they're made of cheese! I'm going to triple check i'm using an M12 rather than M10 bolt tonight before stumping for a helicoil kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 Is it the right caliper bolt for the axle? That will be the go/no-go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 Sorry guys, still getting my head round the thread sizes here. Is the below bolt likely to be 1.25, 1.5 or 1.75mm? There seem to be quite a few options for M12 helicoil kits so want to make sure i'm getting the right one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 This suggests it is M12 fine: https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-discovery-1-range-rover-brake-caliper-bolt-x2/ Which *should* be 1.25. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Get something like this for around a fiver, i've found mine useful especially with mixed threads (metric/imperial) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184332633337?epid=17039152137&hash=item2aeb14c4f9:g:7XsAAOSw32Ve2Jr2 Pete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 1.5 vs 1.25 you’ll be able to distinguish with a steel rule if you’ve got the right bolt to hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 M12 x 1.25mm and a set of thread gauges purchased! I've got a funny feeling I'm going to have to remove the steering bar to get at it properly but hopefully not. Will post pics when I get round to doing the job. Thanks folks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2809 Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Ive just had to do mine this weekend on a replacement axle except mine were m12x1.75. drop rear steering to make it easier to access Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 9 hours ago, pete3000 said: Get something like this for around a fiver, i've found mine useful especially with mixed threads (metric/imperial) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184332633337?epid=17039152137&hash=item2aeb14c4f9:g:7XsAAOSw32Ve2Jr2 Pete Better still, get yourself a decent metric and imperial tap and die set. It'll come with thread gauges for both thread series. I use my thread gauges very frequently, and often need to clean up threads before refitting bolts or nuts, especially if remains of threadlock are on there. The cost pales into insignificance compared to cross threading while trying to fit the correct size nut to a different thread pitch. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 15 hours ago, Troll Hunter said: Better still, get yourself a decent metric and imperial tap and die set. It'll come with thread gauges for both thread series. I use my thread gauges very frequently, and often need to clean up threads before refitting bolts or nuts, especially if remains of threadlock are on there. The cost pales into insignificance compared to cross threading while trying to fit the correct size nut to a different thread pitch. Mike There are some decent metric tap and die sets at Arceurotrade and the Presto metric ones off the bay. RDG otherwise for the imperial stuff. Worth getting the tapping drills to match. I bought a cheap aldi tap/die set and they wouldn't start a thread but were ok for cleaning. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Just now, pete3000 said: I bought a cheap aldi tap/die set and they wouldn't start a thread but were ok for cleaning. Pete Suprised at that I got a set from Lidl which have been champion except for the tap holder which is made from cheese, broke on the first outing but still using the taps a year or so later regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 16 hours ago, Troll Hunter said: Better still, get yourself a decent metric and imperial tap and die set. It'll come with thread gauges for both thread series. I use my thread gauges very frequently, and often need to clean up threads before refitting bolts or nuts, especially if remains of threadlock are on there. The cost pales into insignificance compared to cross threading while trying to fit the correct size nut to a different thread pitch. Mike I've never really liked the sets. Over here in the UK unless you buy the likes of Presto/Dormer etc you just end up with a box of cheese. Far better off buying branded individual ones as you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 1 minute ago, landroversforever said: I've never really liked the sets. Over here in the UK unless you buy the likes of Presto/Dormer etc you just end up with a box of cheese. Far better off buying branded individual ones as you go. Living relatively remote, 70 km, from my nearest motor factor I tend to buy when I see a tool that I might need, although I don't have an immediate use for it. If you're relatively close to suppliers it may be possible to pop out to get the tool you need at that moment, but even that philosophy can be a PITA for evening or weekend work. As a dear friend often tells me, "It's better to have it, but not need it, than to need it but not have it." Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Sealey tap and die set here, was £50 years ago, still going strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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