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Rover V8 Trumpets


Hybrid_From_Hell

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Mate has been having weird misfires and engine rattling ...

Turns out 4 of his inlet trunpets are not where they should be and have worked loose and bouncing around inside the plenum :rofl:

whats they best stuff / is there special gloop that glue these in ?

Trumpet base and trumpets in my ultrasonic cleaner / have knocked all of them out (some were loose) so will be looking to glue in all 8 ??

Nige

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On 12/9/2022 at 10:04 AM, Hybrid_From_Hell said:

 

 

Mate has been having weird misfires and engine rattling ...

Turns out 4 of his inlet trunpets are not where they should be and have worked loose and bouncing around inside the plenum :rofl:

whats they best stuff / is there special gloop that glue these in ?

Trumpet base and trumpets in my ultrasonic cleaner / have knocked all of them out (some were loose) so will be looking to glue in all 8 ??

Nige

Loctite 638

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33 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Are you sure? I thought JB weld was one of those super-useful fixes that's also almost always the wrong answer for whatever it's used for?

To be honest Fridge, it has been the right answer for whatever I have used it for. It has always exceeded my expectations.

I wouldnt use it for anything structural, but I cannot think of anything that I have used it for, and it has failed. The automotive things I have used it for include are gluing a mounting lug on a gearbox bellhousing, building up a thermostat housing and water outlet, sleeving up a steel hose outlet to take it from 14mm to 19mm using a bigger tube. Sticking a broken alternator mounting lug on a tractor. All have been done a few years despite me expecting them to fail.

I have pieced together a 75 year old toilet pan with it, including under the water line, handle on a saucepan, handles back on broken mugs.

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1 minute ago, smallfry said:

To be honest Fridge, it has been the right answer for whatever I have used it for. It has always exceeded my expectations.

I wouldnt use it for anything structural, but I cannot think of anything that I have used it for, and it has failed. The automotive things I have used it for include are gluing a mounting lug on a gearbox bellhousing, building up a thermostat housing and water outlet, sleeving up a steel hose outlet to take it from 14mm to 19mm using a bigger tube. Sticking a broken alternator mounting lug on a tractor. All have been done a few years despite me expecting them to fail.

I have pieced together a 75 year old toilet pan with it, including under the water line, handle on a saucepan, handles back on broken mugs.

Must admit I've always had excellent results when I've used JB weld regards Stephen

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23 hours ago, Badger110 said:

The reason I mentioned CT1 is it does have some flexibility, albeit not a lot.

As impressive as its list of purposes is, the fact it's a construction / DIY sealant & adhesive and not an automotive/industrial product would make me suspicious of its suitability, we know from experience that certain things  (EG standard silicone sealant) cause damage to automotive things (lambda sensors Vs acetic acid given off by the sealant) even if they appear to "work fine".

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You should only be using neutral cure silicone sealers on mechanical stuff anyway. This does NOT contain acetic acid (Acetoxy cure) which is really only meant for building applications. It is also cheaper, and does not adhere as well as neutral cure stuff to metals.

All proper RTV silicone sealers for automotive use are neutral cure, except blue Hylomar which was Acetoxy, (smells of vinegar) last time I smelt it, which TBH was years ago.

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