adam300Tdi90 Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Hi All, I am very close to ordering a new chassis for my project. But there are so many chassis suppliers! Before I spend all my hard earned savings in one go, I wanted to start up a discussion on which companies chassis is the best??!! A friend of mine has said Richards Chassis are very good, but i have seen that the Marslands ones have a new design gearbox x-member and adjustable rear x-member to tub mounts. Are these just gimmicks which, on an accurate, well-made chassis are not needed?? Anyway, I'm discussing too much and not listening to you all enough!! Any other info/secrets that people who have done this know please tell!! Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 A looong time ago now a friend but a galv Richards chassis under his hybrid Series. Got one with a removeable gearbox crossmember that has proven to be very handy. One thing to bear in mind with a galv chassis is that you will have to re-drill a lot of the hole before bolting anything on again as the galv does slightly fill the holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acs Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 I put a Richard's Chassis on my V8 90 and it was perfect didn't need to redrill any holes at all. 3 years on it still looks good even though it's had a lot of punishment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Richards state on their website that they re-drill holes after galvanising, one less job to do at home I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Richards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Last time this came up elsewhere the consensus seemed to be that Marslands were slightly cheaper but you had to drill out all the holes and their customer service was average. Richards Chassis were slightly more expensive but came ready to fit and customer service was excellent. I'm about to order a new 90 chassis in the next month or so, I'll be ordering from Richards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyMachine Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 I looked at all of them, in the end I bought of eBay. £600 for a brand new TD5 chassis. came with cross member and tow bar. I had no problems fitting it and its going strong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam300Tdi90 Posted March 31, 2009 Author Share Posted March 31, 2009 Excellent, thanks for your inputs guys! Just placed my order with Richards! 4-5 weeks wait that I wasn't ready for but I suppose I have a fair bit more to get on with before it gets down to me. I will be putting my pics up here as a sort of picture diary, so if anyone else has any info/advice/things to remember that would be helpful during my build please post away! Theres no such thing as bad advice! I do have some questions up front though; Does anyone ever paint their galv chassis as a second layer of protection? Does a list of all bolts used in a defender exist? I want to (need to) replace all of them really and I wanted to place a bulk order with a Nut and Bolt company. Cheers again! Adam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acs Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 If you can afford it just buy lots of stainless. In a few years time when you need to take something to bits again and it has a good mud and road grime covering you can still undo them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Apparently marslands use the td5 type rear crossmember on all the defender chassis hence mines coming from Richards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 JST has just done this job so will have tips I'm sure. I'd but Richards after seeing them all in the flesh at Billing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Excellent, thanks for your inputs guys! Just placed my order with Richards! 4-5 weeks wait that I wasn't ready for but I suppose I have a fair bit more to get on with before it gets down to me. I will be putting my pics up here as a sort of picture diary, so if anyone else has any info/advice/things to remember that would be helpful during my build please post away! Theres no such thing as bad advice! I do have some questions up front though; Does anyone ever paint their galv chassis as a second layer of protection? Does a list of all bolts used in a defender exist? I want to (need to) replace all of them really and I wanted to place a bulk order with a Nut and Bolt company. Cheers again! Adam. It is very difficult / need the correct paint / primer / method to get paint to stick to newly dipped galvanised steel (chassis). When I got bits galvanised for the nas I also instructed the galvaniser to powder coat black so they knew what treatment to use for the paint. If Richards cannot / unwilling to powder coat their own galvanising then I would not bother. If you get it wrong you will have paint falling off all the time and why paint when the galvanising is there to stop corrosion. If you offroad and slide the chassis in mud / stone you might get a bit of corrosion on bottom of chassis rails but easy to fix. After 2 or 3 years you could add some paint, there must be some volatiles in the galvanising that disappear in time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howard14 Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 It is very difficult / need the correct paint / primer / method to get paint to stick to newly dipped galvanised steel (chassis). When I got bits galvanised for the nas I also instructed the galvaniser to powder coat black so they knew what treatment to use for the paint. If Richards cannot / unwilling to powder coat their own galvanising then I would not bother. If you get it wrong you will have paint falling off all the time and why paint when the galvanising is there to stop corrosion. If you offroad and slide the chassis in mud / stone you might get a bit of corrosion on bottom of chassis rails but easy to fix. After 2 or 3 years you could add some paint, there must be some volatiles in the galvanising that disappear in time. 'Weatherd' galvanizing accepts oil paint beautifully. commonly done on marine applications. If I wanted to tone a new one down a bit, then I might try a few of those Waxoil UNDERSEAL spray tins (not the standard grade) on the obvious bits. I use it on the outside of my 300TdiDef rear cross member and it's good, it sets, and with a layer of filth on, it just looks original. After a couple of years, I would spray Fluid film, or whatever I fancied at the time, INSIDE the chassis legs. Condensation forms inside there, and 'things' might just need a little help. 'Fluid film' in it's various forms is good stuff. Howard. 2X300TdiDef90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 You can use the POR-15 self-etch primer then POR-15 then chassis coat, this is how I will be going. B Hope to get mine next month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Then watch the POR peel off in sheets I can post you a sample if you like unless you are painting it on rust I 'd save the time/money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 just squirt waxoyl or schutz on and inside it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 how few parts can you break a 90, my 90!, down into so that it savesa recinstruction time. My chassis on my 90's going rusty and before it gets a problem i'd like to strip it down and get it galved. Or would it be better to have another one to swap onto, bearing in mind all the mods i've had done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 how few parts can you break a 90, my 90!, down into so that it savesa recinstruction time. My chassis on my 90's going rusty and before it gets a problem i'd like to strip it down and get it galved. Or would it be better to have another one to swap onto, bearing in mind all the mods i've had done? One of our club members got a bare (ungalvanised) chassis from Richards so he could modify it. Once the modifications are done he can return it to them and they'll galvanise it. Worth asking about if you need to make a lot of mods ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam300Tdi90 Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share Posted April 15, 2009 how few parts can you break a 90, my 90!, down into so that it savesa recinstruction time. My chassis on my 90's going rusty and before it gets a problem i'd like to strip it down and get it galved. Or would it be better to have another one to swap onto, bearing in mind all the mods i've had done? Ihave seen that some companies literally disconnect the body (plus electrics etc) and winch it off the chassis, replace the chassis and winch it back down. I am not set up to do this at all so I have broken mine down to: Tub, seatbox, Bulkhead (Wings, sills attached), Roof (Windscreen and sides attached). I'm sure you could do less breaking than that but somethings on mine had to come apart for reconditioning or access to crusty bolts... Now I have a rolling chassi and I think you need a new one to swap over from here.... HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam300Tdi90 Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share Posted April 15, 2009 East cost rover - Lift whole body off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 East cost rover - Lift whole body off Alan, FWIW the 90 is mine and we used a Richards chassis which fitted perfectly which is just as well when you've got no time allotted to tweaking things till they fit. Wouldn't hesitate to recommend them or the HOFS team for doing the impossible. Enjoy the build and post pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 I've recently started my build onto a galv chassis and wanted to paint it black. In the end i purchased some Blackfriars Galvanised Metal Primer and then some of their QD90 metal paint in gloss black. I hope this will do the job. The chassis has lain in the shed for over a year, so its not tank fresh galv either, which i presume will help the adhesion of the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 Last bank holiday I built my 90 onto a new galv chassis. it took me (on my own) around 35hrs of work start to end, that included fitting X springs and arms in the process, as well as replacing the A frame ball joint. I lifted the body off in one, simply removing the front panel, using a gantry i lifted the body at the bulkhead with a chain blockoff a gantry. Using an engine crane, lifted the rear off via the spare wheel mount. My back door was knackered and i figured if it broke it wouldn't matter. It held suprisingly well and i rested the body down on 45gallon oil drums for the time it was off. A very satisfying job and I am extremely pleased with the results. No record breaking time, but a thoroughly well executed job and haven't had any snags since fitment. All the doors shut as they did so the body strong enough to endure being lifted off. I would say make sure all the packers on the body mounts go back the way they came out and be prepared for a nightmare with shock absorbers. Make sure you have anti freeze, brake fluid, and plenty of penetrating oil or diesel. Use as many new bolts and nuts as possible (M8 x 30 is your friend!) A couple of new jubilee's for the fuel filler and vent come in handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redben101 Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 Richards chassis are definitely the best. Alastair is very helpful and will modify the chassis to fit your needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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