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Aldi Super Specials


disco_al

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I've been borrowing a MIG to do work on Land Rovers and I'm OK with it when it works. The annoying thing with it is that the wire has gone a little rusty and jams in the feed. When it does this you have to spend 10 minutes taking the wire out and rethreading it (which is made worse by the fact it really needs a new liner). As it's not mine I don't want to go to any major expense in repairing / replacing bits - but it drives you mad to use it - sometimes it will work fine for 10 mins then it will start jamming and it might jam after 10 seconds etc.

These arc welders seem simpler from that point of view and at that price I can't moan. Would it be suitable for some B post repair work on my series? As that's the next job

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i have an almost identical stick welder i bought about 4 years ago - same power etc, just different label and its yellow.

used it ALOT when i was doing chassis repairs to a mates project rangie and when building my bumpers, winch mount and other bits and pieces.

really short duty cycle at anything over 100amps, but it works great when used with some quality rods. In fact my large pack of mixed sized rods probably cost more than the chuffin welder. :blink:

post-2947-12536062231_thumb.jpg

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is anyone else a bit concerned that at £30 any aldi shopping numpty can be tempted to start hacking his chassis about and then hurtling around the countries highways and byways in a barely held together missile :blink:

Will

PS: Just told my brother in law to drop into Aldi for me :ph34r:

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That would make a very interesting discussion about people buying things they don't know how to use (angle grinders/any power tool, welders, elecrical sockets, etc, etc, etc.

Better flog my MIG, Gas welding gear, pillar drill, hydraulic press, specialist automative tools - most of which I didn't know how to use until I'd bought them.

Les tongue.gif

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is anyone else a bit concerned that at £30 any aldi shopping numpty can be tempted to start hacking his chassis about and then hurtling around the countries highways and byways in a barely held together missile :blink: .......

At least it may stop them doing the job with pop rivets, chicken wire and GF.

Steve

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is anyone else a bit concerned that at £30 any aldi shopping numpty can be tempted to start hacking his chassis about and then hurtling around the countries highways and byways in a barely held together missile :blink: .......

Valid point, same could be said for the parts and tools that are sold from any factors/accessory shop etc...it won't be long before you need a training course to use a hammer.....

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Valid point, same could be said for the parts and tools that are sold from any factors/accessory shop etc...it won't be long before you need a training course to use a hammer.....

Won't be long before you can't work on your car period!

Either the Insurance companies will stop it or the EU.

I agree unskilled from doing it is dangerous but it should be possible to allow a College to train home repairers to a high enough skill level.

Marc.

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is anyone else a bit concerned that at £30 any aldi shopping numpty can be tempted to start hacking his chassis about and then hurtling around the countries highways and byways in a barely held together missile

I worry just the same when I go into B&Q etc, and see people walking out with boilers and a trolly full of plumbing/electrical gear.

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Hi there, i would like your thoughts on wether you lot think a beginner welder like myself should invest in one of these to fix the sills, rear arches and rear body x-member. I was going to save up and get a Mig welder which my bro inlaw can teach me use and i'm told Mig's better for welding panel work. I won't be doing anything with the chassis as cautioned earlier in this thread. As you guys say it is a real bargain but if it's not suitable for the job (or a begginer) then it's 30 quid better spent elsewhere.

Thanks Kris

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Hi there, i would like your thoughts on wether you lot think a beginner welder like myself should invest in one of these to fix the sills, rear arches and rear body x-member. I was going to save up and get a Mig welder which my bro inlaw can teach me use and i'm told Mig's better for welding panel work. I won't be doing anything with the chassis as cautioned earlier in this thread. As you guys say it is a real bargain but if it's not suitable for the job (or a begginer) then it's 30 quid better spent elsewhere.

Thanks Kris

Personal experience from 30 years ago - stick is brilliant for the heavier jobs but is a RRPITA for thin stuff like bodywork. Personally I reckon anything under 1mm of good clean metal and you have to be very good with stick to get a weld going without blowing holes. For bodywork I would go for MIG, and if you are working outside then gas-less MIG. There! Now I will have sparked the gas/gas-less debate again... Sorry!

p.s. I am not in any way a qualified welder...

Edited by ThreeSheds
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What is the input power requirements of this welder?

I presume that the 160 amps is the maximum output current but at what voltage?

I see Mike has his wired up to a 32 amp socket and a 48 amp breaker which is not exactly the standard domestic household circuit.

Guess who's knowledge of welding equipment is non existent?

Brendan

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