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First Land Rover Defender 90 - Advice


JCB59

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Hi,

I'm new to this forum and this my first post so bear with me here :rolleyes:

I've just bought my first defender 90, 1992 200tdi for shooting use and want to get some things done to it and also to sort out some minor points. The issues i want to sort out are listed below but the questions i'm asking are

1. how difficult would this work be to do? (i have all the manuals they came with the 90 when i bought it)

2. who could i get to do them for me in Cheshire and what sort of cost would i be looking at.

I would like to do the work myself but don't want to end up getting in a mess. So here's the list and not in any particular order.

Electrics

1. Rear windscreen wiper is not working and looks like it needs new motor and wiring.

2. No internal light and no wiring to it either what do i need to do here?

3. I want to fit a roof light bar with lights and also front spots is this a difficult job?.

4. Would it be better to fit the spots to an A Bar or get the grill mounted option?

Cosmetic

1. The windscreen seal is looking at bit worse for wear so i've bought a new one and would like to change it. How difficult a job and how much time should i allow if i was going to try it myself? Or should i call in the pro's etc?

2. Purchased two new bench seats to fit to the back cab which is already fully chequer plated, do i just bolt the seats at the top to the side rail? Or do i need to remove any of the chequer plating?

3. The car has chequer plating fitted to the back, sills and wings tops etc but i would like it fitting to the bonnet also. Will i need a special riveting gun or should i use the bolts instead again how difficult is this to do?

4. The car has no internal roof lining so i am going to buy a La Salle full headlining (seen it on here looks great) but i need to cut around the sun roof which is fitted, seems easy enough but anyone done it?

Mechanical

1. It has a minor leak on the master cyclinder, i've bought a new one and looked at how to replace it, seen the thread on here also. However, is this something i should attempt or again call in the experts.

2. When i drop it down into second gear sometimes there is a grind, not all the time though. Would this be a big issue or is it nothing to worry about just yet.

Other than the above the car drives superbly well, is soild all round and looks great albeit i will change the colour to green when i can.

Any advice would be much appreciated, as i said i'm new to the world of Landy's and also new to this forum so sorry if the questions are a bit basic, i just want to know how best to go about the jobs.

So should i call in the experts and if so where should i take it in Cheshire and how much would this lot cost me to do if i did.

Cheers

James

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The only job of those I wouldn't want to do myself would be the windscreen seal.

I have to say, I've learned more about vehicles and mechanics through the 18 months I've owned my 90 than in the entirety of my life beforehand :P

I'd agree with Retro, now on my 3rd week of ownership, if you're willing then you will soon loose any land rover "naivety", if you want to be able to look after the vehicle yourself then this is the perfect time to get involved - go for it, whats the worst that could happen! ;o)

You wont find an easier vehicle to work on.

This forum is incredible, the knowledge it holds is priceless. - if in doubt post a topic and ask someone.

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Thanks to all the replies so far i appreciate the responses. I've searched through the archive and have satisfied the master cyclinder issue, there is a very good thread there with pictures that i will follow.

Taken note of the advice on the windscreen seal, i'll call in the experts on that one.

Any advice on the other points as i can't seem to find answers in the archive for those?

Luke i'm in Northwich.

Cheers

James

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Electrics

1. Rear windscreen wiper is not working and looks like it needs new motor and wiring.

All available new (but not cheap). A Range Rover motor will fit, with some washers (previous post on forum)

2. No internal light and no wiring to it either what do i need to do here?

The light can be sourced (again, not cheap, but aftermarket ones will fit) and a bit of wire to one of the switches on the right of the dashboard (purple and white I think)

3. I want to fit a roof light bar with lights and also front spots is this a difficult job?.

No, but routeing the wiring from a roof bar neatly isn't easy, which is 50% of the good reasons to get a snorkel fitted ;)

4. Would it be better to fit the spots to an A Bar or get the grill mounted option?

A-bar, though I made a bar that sat behind the grille

Cosmetic

2. Purchased two new bench seats to fit to the back cab which is already fully chequer plated, do i just bolt the seats at the top to the side rail? Or do i need to remove any of the chequer plating?

They should bolt down through the wheel arch box too, you should get away with leaving the plating.

3. The car has chequer plating fitted to the back, sills and wings tops etc but i would like it fitting to the bonnet also. Will i need a special riveting gun or should i use the bolts instead again how difficult is this to do?

Easy, and dome head hex socket screws are just as neat.

4. The car has no internal roof lining so i am going to buy a La Salle full headlining (seen it on here looks great) but i need to cut around the sun roof which is fitted, seems easy enough but anyone done it?

No, but more comments will no doubt follow soon :)

2. When i drop it down into second gear sometimes there is a grind, not all the time though. Would this be a big issue or is it nothing to worry about just yet.

Describe "grind" please, paying particular attention to pitch, volume and duration?

So should i call in the experts and if so where should i take it in Cheshire and how much would this lot cost me to do if i did.

All the above is DIY, requiring no special tools. We're here to help, and I know there's at least two regulars just round the corner from you...

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get yourself a haynes manual if there is not one in the manuals you mentioned most jobs on a landy are pretty self explanatory but the haynes manual gives good tips and you can always refer to it when stuck i have to say everything i have done on mine is fairly straight foward and usually very enjoyable and i aint no mechanic

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Thanks again for the detailed answers really helpful. I will get the Haynes manual as both mine are Land Rover editions.

2. When i drop it down into second gear sometimes there is a grind, not all the time though. Would this be a big issue or is it nothing to worry about just yet.

Describe "grind" please, paying particular attention to pitch, volume and duration?

It only happens now and then when slowing down from third to second, it may be me getting used to the box. It seems as if i need another gear in between second and third. Its just like i have to force it into second. Going from first to second is fine.

Cheers

James

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Describe "grind" please, paying particular attention to pitch, volume and duration?

It only hands no and then when slowing down from third to second, it may be me getting used to the box. It seems as if i need another gear in between second and third. Its just like i have to force it into second. Going from first to second is fine.

Sounds like you're rushing the box - it's probably the synchromesh complaining! Landys are not racing machines, so think less "Ferrari" and more "Foden".

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The synchro could be a bit tired but it could also be that you might be hurrying the changes a bit. Defenders are more truck than car like so changing gear needs to be a bit slower and with a certain amount of 'feel' for when the stick is ready to slip into gear. Take your time, especially when the vehicle is cold.

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:unsure:

OK guys advice taken, i thought all the evidence was pointing to me, due to it not happening all the time.

It was alot better today, all my other cars are auto's its been a while since i drove a manual and it shows.

I'll get there.

Thanks again.

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"LESS FERRARI AND MORE FODEN" :D:D La salle roof linings are great value for money i used a round saw blade to cut it (magic saw) or something borrowed it :huh: just do be scared of it there dead tough yu will know what i mean once you start if you have alpine lights they can be a bit tricky :unsure: remember measure twice cut once :D

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ref your grinding changing down -

as you change up the box the gears are slowing down and so the synchro doesn't have to work so hard, as you chnage down the synchro has to speed up the cogs to match the road speed which puts it under more load - infact you rarley need to use the clutch when changing up if you match the engine speed to road speed! Coming down the box is a bit trickier. Have you tried double de-clutching? 'blip' the throttle in nuetral between 3rd & 2nd, it makes the change easier.

Changing the gearbox oil can also make the changes smoother - also go easy on the box when cold.

Get under the truck, find your way around and don't be frightened of getting your hands dirty. Inveriably the truck will run fine in fair weather and only need you to get under it when it's cold/dark/snowing ;)

HTH,

Dave.

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lol didnt double declutching go out some time in the 1930's...

The problem lies in the gearbox being a heap of carp. The synchro isnt strong enough for the job so instead of fixing it rover just put thinner gear oil in the box.

Using the later spec MTF94 might help, and its not particularly expensive so its probably worth a go dropping the ATF out and trying the later oil to see if it helps. The other option is the oil produced by Difflock called Evo1: http://shop.difflock.com/difflock-evolution-fully-synthetic-speed-gear-litre-p-51.html

It will never be perfect though, you just need to get used to it and slow down the shift.

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Welcome JCB59,

All the previous comments are sound but I would add that when you fit the seats make sure you put some metal plates underneath to spread the load. You're not far from me and the place I use when the job gets too complicated is LandRanger services in Middlewich. They're a nice bunch of people, know Landy's, reasonable labour rates. Only downside is they sometimes use Britpart bits. You'll soon learn about those!

Don't be daunted by any job on them, there's loads of help here and there's not much you can't do yourself - it just depends whether you want to, or pay someone else for the awkward jobs.

Malcolm

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Thanks again lads for the responses.

Just waiting to receive my jack and axle stands now and i'll be getting stuck in certainly with the getting to know bit.

Malcolm thanks for the tip on the garage in Middlewich just down the road that. One thing though i bought a new master cylinder and guess what its a Britpart. Have i made a mistake or will it do the job?

I will look into changing the oil also.

Cheers

James

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Can recommend using Difflock oils, they certainly made my gearbox quieter and easier though some of that may be due to fresh oil. Britpart stuff generates a huge amount of debate. They are generally significantly cheaper then genuine but quality/fit can be pot luck. If it's a critical part, buy genuine or good independent(you'll soon learn who these are)if not save some money but be aware it may not last.

;)

Malcolm

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Cheers lads i appreciate that. I'm off to see Wales v Argebtina on the weekend then next weekend i will attempt the master cylinder change.

If i get stuck i will be on here begging for help no doubt.

How exactly do you bleed the clutch after fitting?

Cheers

James

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