Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Hi seeking words of wisdom again. Thinking ahead to the long sunkissed barmy days of the British summer and thinking about jobs that need doing, first is the waxoyling of the chassis interior but what do you all recomend for the outer surface of the chassis and how have you found best to apply whatever you use. Just need tips and recomendations realy. Cheers All James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bernie Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Hi seeking words of wisdom again. Thinking ahead to the long sunkissed barmy days of the British summer and thinking about jobs that need doing, first is the waxoyling of the chassis interior but what do you all recomend for the outer surface of the chassis and how have you found best to apply whatever you use. Just need tips and recomendations realy. Cheers All James I tend to use waxoyl anywhere i can get it, inside chassis, outside chassis, bulkhead etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 it can be used on the outer faces of the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Hey guys, so I have the chassis stripped down pretty much at the moment - engine mounted but no bodywork. What should I do re the inside of the chassis - it's an adopted project and the guy waxoyled the outside but not the inside. Was thinking perhaps fill it with expanding foam - but need to find something that water repellent not absorbent. Otherwise how on earth do you waxoyl the inside of the chassis? Cheers, James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 The foams been discussed before and it was generally considered a bad idea. I cant think of anything that will completely stop water getting in there, it'll stop any that does get in from drying out and it has no rust prevention properties itself. You really need a compressor and the correct attachments to do inside the chassis. There is an article in the tech archive on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 don't use any foam inside, cos when you have to do any chassis welding you'll have a internal fire on your hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Personally I'd go with Waxoyl (or equivalent cavity wax) on the inside of the chassis and a decent paint job on the outside. Much cleaner finish and makes for a nicer place to work under in future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Personally I'd go with Waxoyl (or equivalent cavity wax) When I was growing up, our neighbours had a cat named McCavity, fortunately for the cat, Nige didn't live anywhere nearby In all seriousness though, I use Waxoyl for inside and outside the chassis, reapplied yearly on a nice hot day. For inside you can get long lances just for this exact purpose. I prefer the clear (thinner) type, even for the outside of the chassis. I never got on with the thicker gloopy black variety, and always ended up with far too much of it on me and the driveway. Believe me it makes one heck of a mess. Gloves and some kind of respirator are essential if you are spraying the stuff, oh and a groundsheet that you can bin afterwards/ use again next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brighouse shed Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 personally go for the bilthamber/waxoyl in the chassis and my friend hammerite on the outside. At least with hammerite you get a little orangey spot and know it's time to start again, gloop just hides a multuitude of sins as a number on this forum can attest from their first LR purchase.......................polyfilla anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Bilt Hamber, Dinitrol, Waxoyl, or other suitable goo. Inside outside, everywhere rust can get a hold. Just keep reaplying when/ where necessay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 I want to use anything like Waxoyl, but here in Colombia all that anti-rust products are kind of illegal (due to cocaine-production chemicals), so I have to look for any alternative. I found a recipe for homemade anti-rust that sounds logical for me (Candle, White Spirit and parafin oil) and I want to use it both in the outside and inside. Have somebody used it? I suppose that's a mess for any apply, but I'm really getting off ideas, so this is my only alternative at the moment. I have a TD5, do you think I can spray this almost-glue product inside the chassis where electrical wires are and no make a short circuit or something worst? what's the idea with cavity wax? to refill the interior or just to cover the walls? I know Waxoyl or any industrial alternative are better than this recipe, but believe me: I can't bring them here (there is a way, but it will cost more than my car, so...). Here we can only go for a ship-like formula painting outside the chassis, and an epoxic anti rust paint, but there is nothing to do with cavities and chasis inside. This recipe results in a really thick coat. How can I make it thinner without losing protective characteristics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 This recipe results in a really thick coat. How can I make it thinner without losing protective characteristics? I think I have seen that recipe on the net. Simply add more white spirit as this will eventually evaporate leaving the rest of the ingredients behind to form a protective barrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 plenty of people still use the age old method of anti rust coating their undersides, by making up a mix of old engine oil and diesel. lots of farmers do this, and i have done before now as well. I;m sure it isnt as effective as dinitrol or schultz, but its better than nothing i suppose. Although i can see the benefit of warming it slightly and adding a good lump of beeswax into the mix for when it cools and dries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barrett Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Do you mind if I jump in here and ask a couple of things which might also be useful for the OP. I've nearly got to the stage of scraping my chassis so I could waxoyl/dinitrol the outside of the chassis. It has been waxoyled in the past and has suffered (though looking at the chassis I'm not sure Suffered is the right word) with oil leaks keeping the front half of the chassis coated in oil. Is it worth going the extra mile and properly cleaning it with rags and solvent before using POR15, or just get it brushed so the rust is off and reapplying waxoyl. I'm worried about applying POR15 over smeared waxoyl and it not bonding to the chassis. And on the inside of the chassis, is it worth worrying about any mud which might have found its way inside or just get loads of Dinitrol in there How do you get something to protect the chassis inside - push something flexible through the end legs and pull it back while pumping the dinitrol in, or poking the applicator through every hole you can find down the chassis and hope you got everything covered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 There's a piece in the Tech Archive about Waxoyling (etc). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Waxoyl is complete **** Im sorry, but it just is. Try the 3M Schutz i have pictured below. Its superior in every way. It dries completely so dirt / dust / sand doesnt stick to it - shame the same cant be said for waxoyl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Waxoyl is great for inside cavities, so calling it **** is not really appropriate.... I agree though it is not hard wearing enough for surface treatment, where schutz is a MUCH better option, on new/sound metal at least. On rusty/unsound metal hammerite is OK, but can chip easily depending on vehicle use.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Waxoyl is great for inside cavities, so calling it **** is not really appropriate.... I agree though it is not hard wearing enough for surface treatment, where schutz is a MUCH better option, on new/sound metal at least. On rusty/unsound metal hammerite is OK, but can chip easily depending on vehicle use.... How do you know what i called it. 4 stars could have been 'good'..... Hammerite aint that good either. At least i dont think it is. Ive found POR-15 a much better option to hammerite. It is dearer mind you.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Yeah, and I've seen POR on an axle, rusted through with surface rust in 18 months! I have 3 coats of hammerite on my Lightweights chassis, still looking good after 3+ years Honestly, unless your vehicle is an on-road tool only, chassis treatment should be once every year or two to keep on top of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Yeah, and I've seen POR on an axle, rusted through with surface rust in 18 months! Wow. Was the POR-15 thinned down? Ive never heard anything but good reports on it, but there you go... To be honest i couldnt give a monkeys what folk use on their vehicle. I know that when i find something that works, i stick with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Not sure, was on Bishbosh's bobtail/90... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Not sure, was on Bishbosh's bobtail/90... It probably was then! :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 A man who's fastidiousness is only surpassed in part by my own! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 I think Hammerite is pretty rubbish these days. It used to be good before it was made 'eco-friendly' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Tnanks a lot for your answers. Do you think I can use this old recipe inside the chassis where wiring loom goes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.