mikec Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Hi people. I'm going to be doing some work on my 90 soon, list so far is new bulkhead, new engine and changing axles. The question is how far into a full chassis change would I be? Am I half way there? What would you do, it's had a new crossmember a couple of years ago and will needs some more patching for its mot. Any advice much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 I was about to do a similar thing, got as far as stripping the body panels and notice the chassis was ruined along the top edges, the bits you can't normally see.! So bit the bullet and changed the chassis. Removing the bulkhead you need to remove the bonnet, wings and roof anyway, so really with your changes you are more than half way there! Removing the bulkhead is the only difficult bodywork part anyway. Saying all that, if the patches are in minor areas...then it may not be worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 A bulkhead replacement is not much less work than a chassis replacement, so you may as well go for it. It'll give you peace of mind, less maintenance hassle and, more importantly better safety, for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Honestly, I think you know the answer, as you are going as far as the bulkhead axles and an engine swap would not be a lot more work and depending on your space may actually be easier. You could fit the new axles and engine to the new chassis add the new bulkhead and then swap things from there the advantage of taking things off and putting them straight back on so you know where/how they went. If your new engine is different from the one you have now, i.e a 300tdi you can order your new chassis with the modified engine mounts already done for you saving you another job. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Honestly, I think you know the answer, Haha was hoping someone would give me a reason not to do it. The only problem is I'll have to do it on the road outside the house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Haha was hoping someone would give me a reason not to do it. The only problem is I'll have to do it on the road outside the house. I am sure you could find a lock-up for a £100 a month it would be worth if for a month and make you focus on finishing!! Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Is there a general consensus on who's chassis are best I looked at prices and they were roughly the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 I changed chassis and bulkhead and axles and seat box in one installation and it was quite a job but I am glad I did because the chassis is one major thing less to worry about come MOT time. The thing that made up my mind was when the seat belt anchor point tore off whilst I was demonstrating the sturdiness of land rovers construction , as I tugged the belt to reassure my wife of its safety two days after its MOT ..... One tip I wish I had had was when you tag the wires of the loom do it with permanent (light safe and waterproof) marker pen on insulation tape not like mine faded or rubbed off in under a week and I couldn't work it out....I got there in the end though. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Haha was hoping someone would give me a reason not to do it. The only problem is I'll have to do it on the road outside the house. I was all set to swap the chassis this summer until I asked my parents if I could do it on their land (as I haven't the space). Dad said "why would you want to do that?". His point being that you could do a hell of a lot of welding for the cost of the chassis (including several rear cross members) and it wouldn't really add any value to the vehicle. It's cast doubt on it all for me. Unfortunately, I can't ignore the wiseness of my Dad... I think in my case, the chassis (1997) is only just getting it's first hole. I can learn to weld on it. If it was shot to pieces and replacing the chassis was the only realistic option, then going galvanised would be a no-brainer. If the chassis is alright though, I don't think there's much reasoning for getting one other than wanting it (albeit a very powerful reason.. ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 If you need to start welding the main sections then it should be telling you that the bits you cant see are probably getting a bit thin . I think with landrover being a chassis built vehicle with a ali body then all the real strength is in the chassi . How much do you value your well being esp in the case of an accident ? Its very noticeable that galv chassis attracts a premium when selling , and also galv bulkhead! Its a pretty simple and quick job to get your own bulkhead galved , thats as long as its been, or is worth repairing . I got some other items (brackets etc ) galved at same time. I would suggest its not the sort of job that lends itself to doing on the road . , as suggested a lock up might be the answer. JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Cheers guys I'm gonna have a think on this. I'm also a little worried about the extra expense aswell as the chassis. New wiring loom bolts etc. wonder how much extra it'd cost on top of a chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Once holes start appearing in the chassis, they will continue to do so more rapidly. You will spend the cost of a chassis in a few short years and have a weak patchwork mess that will still need replacement a while later. Outriggers are one thing, but once main rails or dumb irons are going, it's telling you that the chassis' days are numbered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Is there a general consensus on who's chassis are best I looked at prices and they were roughly the same For me I went Marslands, primarily because they stock the chassis. Richards and Designa have between 5 and 10 weeks leadtime...really in this age, that's just terrible management and they need to up their game. The marsland chassis is a nice bit of kit, few minor upgrades and no crazy jacking apart of the chassis for the crossmember...it just fits Cost wise... For all the chassis, bolts, suspension bits (chassis, new shocks and springs, turrets, mounts, seals and hundreds of bolts) I have spent nearly £2100 on rolling chassis related parts Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 I bought a Marslands - cant comment on anyone elses but the one in my workshop seems good. Dimensions are spot on and galv is good, I sent a scope in the rails when it arrived and its well covered. Some bloody sharp edges as you might expect. There are a few differences between early chassis and the new Marsland but nothing too dramatic. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Bought a richards for mine as when i was looking i did a lot of forum searching and they came highly recommended and marsland not so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Richards chassis every time. I was told that Marslands were merely standard LR chassis that are galvanised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutz Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Another for Richards, the turn round time is mainly because they build a chassis for each customer; you want something not the norm on your chasis they add it before galving. I think if you give them the Chassis number they put that on as well, only heard about this so not sure they actually do it; but might be worth asking about. And yes i would re chassis, as said before if its getting holes now, thats the bits you can see, it will be a lot worse on the inside. I found out the hard way, replaced rear cross member, then started to weld a few small holes................which got bigger and more of them. Waisted time and money should have gone for the chassis straight off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 just think of the old sayin "good things come to those who wait" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Richards for me ! Regards Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 Cheers guys best get saving ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin. Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Hi people. I'm going to be doing some work on my 90 soon, list so far is new bulkhead, new engine and changing axles. The question is how far into a full chassis change would I be? Am I half way there? What would you do, it's had a new crossmember a couple of years ago and will needs some more patching for its mot. Any advice much appreciated. I was in a similar place in terms of damage (bulkhead, engine and axles etc all okay) and decided on a swap. Saved up for a year or so and planned the details out in full. All-in cost with a few bits of emergent work like a new radiator and fuel tank came to circa £3,000. Haha was hoping someone would give me a reason not to do it. The only problem is I'll have to do it on the road outside the house. You will either need a garage with a sturdy ceiling/roof setup which can be used to lift the body off the car like I did or do it outside using some sort of scaffolding rig which has been done by a lot of other people including here. Cheers guys I'm gonna have a think on this. I'm also a little worried about the extra expense aswell as the chassis. New wiring loom bolts etc. wonder how much extra it'd cost on top of a chassis? I've listed all the chassis bolts I've used on the body attachments on my post, but you will need a very wide selection of BZP bolts sizes M4 to M8, including washers, split washers, nuts and nylock nuts. As for cost, with all suspension components and bushes and doing things like clutch, timing belt, engine/gearbox mounts is approaching £3k. If you plan on painting a galvanised chassis, budget about £120 and a day and a half! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350ypvs Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Richards chassis every time. I was told that Marslands were merely standard LR chassis that are galvanised. My original (ungalvanised) Land Rover chassis lasted 22 years so I can't see a problem with Marsland chassis being merely Land Rover chassis that have been galvanised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 ...... I think if you give them the Chassis number they put that on as well, only heard about this so not sure they actually do it; but might be worth asking about. ..... Apparently they aren't allowed to, however this thread http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=61321 has two people posting, one of which was told by Richards they can't stamp it legally and the other of which had Richards offer to stamp it for them...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 My original (ungalvanised) Land Rover chassis lasted 22 years so I can't see a problem with Marsland chassis being merely Land Rover chassis that have been galvanised. sure when i looked into chassis i read marslands are only 2mm steel, and richards are 3mm, its just better for strength and quality all round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericobrave Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 I'm currently fitting a Richard's chassis to my 1991 110 - very satisfied with it so far - once it eventually arrived! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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