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Nice proof X Eng anti theft kit works


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Surely if you have a voltage sensitive alarm it would trigger if a door is opened and the courtesy light comes on (even without central locking) How can you take the doors off silently? Need something like masterblaster to go off inside. The Loctite is a good idea, you have to be able to remove the door somehow.
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I think Alarms, on the whole, are a waste of time. Who these days pays a blind bit of attention to an alarm going off?

As an aside, in the mid 90's I used a theatre smoke canister inside the cab along with a piezo 'sound bomb' - which was loud enough to make your ears bleed! The idea being that it was hard to concentrate if your ears are bleeding! It was set off in Shepherds Bush - but someone called the fire brigade because they thought it was on fire! Not such a clever idea!

I still think the best option for the hinges are removable security bolts with shear-nuts on the inside. If you used 4 different types - even if they have the 'special screwdriver' for one, I bet they wouldn't have all of them!

Unfortunately, the locks are weak - most LR keys are interchangeable and if that fails, you can open it with an average spoon! Disconnect the locks & fit remote central locking? (Maplin).

Another weak point is the door-tops. They are often grabbed by the top and bent outwards so the internal lock can be accessed - or worse still bent over completely and broken off - then you climb in 'dukes of Hazard' style. This is more difficult to overcome.

My two initial thoughts are to drill a hole through the gutter & put a padlock through it - so the door top will not pass by. Or, plate over the weld between the door top & bottom to reinforce it a bit?

Personally, I just leave my doors open! I don't see anyone wanting to steal my doors is welcome to them! Rust & all!

Si

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Many moons ago someone tried to nick my Series 2A from a car park in Derby city centre, they bent the door top open and ripped the steering cowl off to try and hotwire it, being a 2A the ignition barrel is in the centre of the dash so that fooled them.

Instead they tried to exit by my locked rear door, which didn't open from the inside, and then booted the drivers side rear window out for no apparent reason. The light fingered scum managed to cut themselves on a bit of glass, which the police forensics girl (who was quite tidy) got rather excited about. They managed to catch the guy and I was informed he had some time added to his sentence for his actions.

I think the car would have been long gone had it been a Series 3.

Si, do you do any security products that would be suitable for a LT77 Range Rover Classic like gear locks or pedal guards etc? I would assume they're all unsuitable but it's worth asking.

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My defender was attempted to be stolen once and then actually stolen a few months after back around 2007, the first time they tried it I had the steering disconnected as I was half way through getting it ready for it's MOT. We woke up one morning to find it at the opposite end of the drive to where it was left (obviously realised they couldn't turn off the drive onto the road) with the steering cowling ripped off and the ignition barrel smashed. The next time they came back the truck had an MOT and was left on the drive while we were on holiday in France. A few weeks later the police called to say that they'd found what was left of the defender in some woods at a local traveller camp with a load of stolen plant.

Since then the problem has only got worse with doors and bonnets etc being stolen on the street, mainly it's down to the fact that they can get rid of the bits easily and the people buying them will ask no questions because they're at such a good price.

An example of this is on my local off road site's facebook group where people offer up their 4x4 items for sale, there's one guy who has a suspicious amount of facelift discovery headlamps and is selling them at £100 per pair. I've also seen him selling other 'easily acquired' pieces of land rovers and when questioned he claims that he's '***** 4x4' and breaks land rovers, obviously this company only exists by way of a badly made logo he's set as his facebook profile picture.

Simon's security kit looks to be great stuff and if I own a defender again I will definitely be fitting most of it to the truck, saying that I'd also be keeping it in a garage to hopefully prevent bits of the bodywork going missing overnight.

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Re the point about Alarms...yes lots of people ignore them, but considering how many defenders don't have one. If you do and a thief sets it off they might think '**** it...won't bother, I'll get the other one down the road'. If they try anything outside in the dark...Least you will hear it, just don't rely on a factory fitted alarm, they will know exactly how to counter that...retrofitted ones down by yourself and not by a firm are the best option.

Trackers however are not a bad shout. I'm not as worried about things like doors, they can be replaced, the whole thing can't! A determined professional thief will get your defender...But can you get it back?

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Erm, are we all missing the obvious though? What about the loctite that needs heat to remove? Would that stop them, or is it not really that strong on the diameter of a hinge screw?

I dont know either how strong it would be but I suspect that most thieving Pikies have a cousin who does roofing/ asphalt and has a propane torch on their Pikie-Pick up!

Good idea buddy but they take some stopping!

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After I wrote that I did think that blow torches tend to be quiet, maybe welding the nuts onto the bolts for the ones going through the door and loctite for the ones into the bulkhead.

Whilst this would make it a bugger for you to remove if you need to it wouldn't be impossible as you could cut the nuts off for the door bolts and drill out the screws for the bulkhead (would be a bugger to get heat to the bulkhead loctite). Obviously the pikey could do the same but it wouldn't be quick or quiet would it?

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I dont see the loctiting or welding the nuts actually help: it means you shear the bolt imediately, rather than having to wind it all the way out, which is actually a lot quicker.

I have a question for Simon about the steering lock though: have you tried to break the lock by turning the steering wheel? I know that the dutch drug addicts tend to take cars that havent locked the wheel (not rotated it till it locks), put their foot in one of the spokes and kick it through the locking position to break the lock. Is this possible with the defender column, or is anything else breaking?

Daan

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I dont see the loctiting or welding the nuts actually help: it means you shear the bolt imediately, rather than having to wind it all the way out, which is actually a lot quicker.

.....

Surely the J-Nuts in the bulkhead would spin before the bolt would shear?

If the hinge bolts were the pozidrive head type would you get enough torque to shear the bolts in the door side of the hinge?

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I have a question for Simon about the steering lock though: have you tried to break the lock by turning the steering wheel?

I have tried this - and broken mine in the process. However, the first time I turned the wheel past the locking point, it locked again! It was easier to break the second time, but lying across the seats and using your foot to re-break it is inconvenient if you are sitting on a roundabout wanting to turn off, for example.

It's why, on the whole they go after the barrel I imagine.

Si

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I've been thinking of using some sort of WiFi camera as an alarm. I already have one in the house which emails pictures to me if it detects motion has an NV capability so works in the dark too.

Given that I park my landy outside the house (when it's not in bits ) it would be in range of the houses WiFi and therefore could email pictures when it detects motion. This would work no only for someone breaking in to it to steal it but also may work for someone just stealing parts off it.

Problem is, whilst the webcam type ones are 12v they would also flatten the battery fairly quickly, the other types that wouldn't or run off batteries don't have WiFi and wouldn't be much good if the car got nicked with it in it. I just ned to combine the two somehow (if that's possible).

Ideally it would be a cross between this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/5MB-Trail-camera-Colour-detection/dp/B003RUYR68/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt

which can run off batteries for upto 6 months but has not WiFi capability

and this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-IP-Network-Camera-Silver/dp/B00B5P8K92/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1365518500&sr=1-9&keywords=12v+ip+camera

which would flatten the battery too quickly.

My thoughts werte it could also double as a loop/accident recorder too.

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Where is the least safe place to park a Defender, any ideas? Perhaps we as a forum could resort to vigilante action and could set a trap with a tasty 'bait' car and all lay in wait in some nearby bushes - a little like a cross between dogging and a lynching... It would make an interesting forum meet at least.

Chris

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why not mount the camera on the house, pointing at the truck?

On public road. Don't think the neighbours would appreciate a security camera pointing out the window otherwise I would.

As for balaclavas, no system is fool proof. Trackers can be blocked and alarms just get ignored, but at least it is another deterant and you would know more details such as time etc.

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