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waxoyl advert


g&t

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Sorry to return to this forum with a contentious subject but I keep seeing large adverts for 'Land Rover Waxoyl Service - 15 sites across UK' etc. Has anyone, especially in Essex, actually used this service & if so would they like to share their experience?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update > unusual for no-one to post a single comment despite 228 views, have I offended people perhaps?

Anyway I'm going to do my own research by 'phoning the number & getting the location of one of their outlets, as it's not too far from me, then I'll look at their operation myself. Should the main contact be reticent about giving me the address I will form my own conclusions!

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I know nothing of the adverts or products they use but would suggest that waxoil isn't worth the tin it's in for long term vehicle protection. I still use it as there's no competition that's easy to get but you have to apply it every time you clean your chassis which is an inconvenience.

I've cut up a few chassis I've waxoiled over the years and there's been little indication of its presence inside when you look. I waxoil my Volvo C304 every year and spray grease around too and you wouldn't know there was waxoil ever there to look at it. Mixing oil and diesel makes a nice finish and gives a good creepy protection but makes a proper mess for ages after you do it. I've heard of a product called Dinitrol but never actually seen it. Seems to be like a professional waxoil substitute.
If you're looking for long term protection I'd be looking to another product. The cleanliness of all your nooks and crannies is also vital to the success of any rust prevention.

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i prefer a mixture of clean engine oil and grease mixed to a thinish paste and brushed on. It is water resistant, does not chip off, and if there is any dirt left in crannies the oil will soak in and still give a measure of protection. It is a messy business applying it, but if the vehicle is parked over a sheet of plastic any excess can the caught. Once the initial surplus has dripped off it does not subsequently drip on the road. It seems the have worked on our 23 year old Discovery.

I tend to be a bit suspicious of Waxoyl because it is the heavily advertised mass market product. In so many fields that is the one to avoid it seems.

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Cannot comment on the specific service, never used them or know anyone who has. In days gone by, I used to Waxoyl on all my cars - especially after repairs. It did work, but very messy to apply, difficult to do properly and needed top-up every 2-3 years. That was on road going cars. I can easily imagine that it would not last that long with off road use and power washing.

When I got my '98 110, it had been professionally undersealed by the second owner at about 2 years old. Apart from the rear cross member and a bit of scabbing elsewhere the chassis and bulkhead were solid. I'm past the age when getting personally waxoyled to save a few pounds seems like an acceptable option, so I paid out for a professional Dinitrol treatment. Only a few months old, so cannot comment on long term benefit.

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I've just done a 90 for somebody and can honestly say waxoyl isn't what it used to be. It used to be REALLY sticky/smelly stuff and if you had an open can it would harden a little (never went rock hard). Even warmed up it had a thickness to it and after a few days applied it would form a skin. The new stuff, just warmed in a bucket of hot water was almost thinner than water, i had a little left in a can that had previously been opened and didnt think id be able to use it, but 2 mins in the hot water and it was liquid again. Sprayed it all on and 3 days later it still hasn't skinned over. Judging by the way it returns to a liquid so well when it's warmed up, i wouldn't consider steam cleaning the underside.

That being said, i've not had first hand experience of dinitrol so cannot comment but i've had a lot of people recommend it over waxoyl.

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You & I are of the same mind AMB, plus in my case I'm not physically able to crawl around under motors these days. I've read good reports of Dinitrol so that's probably the route I'll take. My RRC was (seemingly) never off-roaded by it's two previous owners & wont be in my ownership, so no clag build up underneath. I'll post the results of my enquiries concerning this advert as I intend calling them after the Bank Hol. Thanks for all the replies folks.

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Update #2 > Spoke to the proprietor yesterday & confessed that I was somewhat ambivalent towards the industry & would like the opportunity to view their operation before committing to a booking. We had a amicable discussion on perceived issues relating to certain operators within the industry & he agreed to contact me when his most local operation could facilitate my visit.

Watch this space folks.

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Must say I bought a party pack of Dinitrol recently to attack a few bits on the 127 and was quite impressed, of course only time can really tell, but the application was certainly less horrible than previous exploits with Waxoyl.

I bought RC900, 4941, 3125.

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That's fine.

However given the long and sometimes turbulent history of some past discussions on the subject on this, and many other forums, the A&M's here are monitoring this thread closely and will not hesitate to shut it down should we feel it necessary.

It's alright. 'Dougal' is currently concerning himself with conspiracy theories and curing cancer through diet on the LRO readers forum... All he actually achieves is driving members to this forum, it's like a ghost town over there!

On the rust front, I want to give Dinitrol a try as everywhere I read, folks seem to think it outperforms waxoyl these days. It's just not as easy to get hold of as waxoyl - can just wander into halfords and pick up a few cans of that as needed.

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Fair comment 'Happy' - lets hope that nobody posts something offensive, as being considered a genuine person (as well as a cynical old git) I am well aware of how volatile this subject can be. I have no connection with any operator/outlet & all I'm aiming for is the opportunity to advise others, like myself, who want to preserve their vehicles but are not able/willing to do it on a DIY basis.

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I use Dinitrol in aerosol form which has a long tube to push into the chassis. Its pretty good and very easy to apply as it is a thinner spray which appears to squirt further into the nooks and crannies. I have also bought the Dinitrol type for surface protection, which I am about to apply particularly to the tops of the front outriggers before I fit my super new plastic sh-t shields to close off the gap. Why didn't LR fit these as standard??

Buy Dinitrol from Rejel online. Seem decent people.

Barry

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  • 2 months later...

As promised in my last post on the 28th August I can now update forum members as to my line of enquiry. Due to the sometimes confrontational attitude (by some) on this subject I'll confine myself to the facts alone. It will be ten weeks, come this Thurs, since my conversation with the proprietor & I've yet to receive any communication - as a result I've booked my RRC into a well known outlet in Eastern England (who require the vehicle for two days in order to complete the treatment & offer a courtesy car) for next March, which is their earliest available booking.

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Is it controversial? I'm fairly convinced it doesn't matter what you use if it isn't rusty. (if it isn't rusty I recommend mucho paint). If it is rusty, your are pretty much screwed. Any iron oxide crystal will start it going again, and it's probably starting from the inside. So cover it in what you fancy, and inspect it regularly so you can pounce on any areas that didn't get the memo :)

Phosphoric acid products are my best weapon at the moment. Find it, kill it, then cover it. :i-m_so_happy:

I'm thinking a professional application will be well worth it. Half the battle is a reliable powerful applicator gun. Watching the Dinitrol vid, it talks about applying three different products? But waxoil, Dinitrol and Rocol all look to be the same paraffin wax derivative?

I guess if you really want to stop the rust you drop some cash on something industrial for offshore? I've seen some fairly serious coverings at industrial shows.

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If you follow the thread, starting with my OP, you'll get the gist. The subject is not really a discussion on the merits & methods of rust prevention but an enquiry as to the services provided by a particular specialist. To that end my last post was simply an update of my experience thus far.

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I guess that's why there were no posts at first. The 'outfit' is only 20% and the bloke doing it is 80%. It's the Brain of the finger on the trigger that decides if they can get gunk into that enclosed structure or pay special attention to a chassis hole near a wheel.

Which brings me to an excellent piece of simple advice, if you have any holes right by a wheel, plug them up :) Salt mist/water gets forced in through them.

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Still not convinced that we are singing from the same hymm sheet Idris but no matter, having posted the original enquiry I promised to update the forum with my own experiences, which is what I've now done.

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