Mo Murphy Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 Indeed Snagger, you are correct but I have a genuine replacement chassis of the TD5 type with rear tank and there isn't an x-deflect anti roll bar kit available for my chassis type alas. I did look ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 What are your anti roll bar chassis brackets like Mo? I'm fitting mine with a Southdown guard, utilising the early hook type brackets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 They are like TD5 chassis anti roll bar brackets Ross ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Can you not mount the ARB in another location to clear the fuel tank? I did that on my 109; 109 Ambulance bars go through the space used by the rear tank, so I just reorientated everything to fit, mounting it in front of the axle instead of behind. You may be able to do the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Another option would be helper air springs that can be inflated for stiff suspension on road and deflated for soft suspension off road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 I would just fit a standard Td5 Rear Anti Roll Bar. If you want to re-gain your articulation off road, release one of the knuckles from your axle. I've seen someone with a 'quicker' release by using a wing-nut to secure the knuckle such that it could be removed without tools. Another option is to cut the bar which links the two knuckles and weld a tube to one half. Drill a hole through the tube and bar and use an R-Clip to join the two together. This is common on Jeeps. Just pull the R clip for off road and replace for on road. As some have pointed out, stiffer shocks will only help with the initial 'kick' if you steer sharply. However, if they are too stiff, you will loose traction which can often be more dangerous. Same goes for springs. The combination of the springs, dampers and mass of the vehicle are tuned to keep your wheels on the ground as much of the time as possible. Anti roll bars are the correct solution. If they were not, no OEM would use them as they add cost and weight. A Cage doesn't weigh much (compared to a camper body for example) and I think the standard bar would make a big difference. With a bit of fabrication, pretty much any of the LR bars can be made to fit a Defender. Stock Defender are about the weakest & P38 Front the strongest. Just buy a used bar - then replace the bushes & knuckles with new (they are low cost). Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 Thanks Snagger and thanks again Si, that idea sounds very promising ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 On road , and off road suspension set ups are diametrically opposed so the best you can achieve is a fudge somewhere in the middle and then put up with the compromise . My 110 was a more extreme example of what you have , due to the extra mass , but i prioritised ride comfort on bush tracks , so after trying OME (in OZ when they first came out ) total rubbish , went to bilstein , and then to adjustable Koni , h/d low rate springs , and stayed with standard ARBs . Due to being a 110 its not as nervous on road, so the roll (considerable) is quite progressive and predictable , so can still hurry on road. The biggest plus in the suspension dept was the Boge leveler , unfortunately NLA . The firestone airbags work well , next best thing to the Boge , with the twin shock turret on front you can fit them that end as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 I'd give the firestone airbags my vote - I loved them. Mine old set are still on the go. I'm going to ditch the disconnects on my Disco and fit airbags as I find the handling with a loaded roof box and trailer to be a little wobbly - and I'm running OME 764 Mediums and big bore shocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 I very much doubt you'll fix your roll by swapping shocks - as others have said, the shocks' job is to prevent the springs from bouncing. Stiff shocks will make it roll slower, but it will still roll, though youll prob notice an improvement in how it drives with stiffer shocks. Stiffer springs or an antiroll bar are the answer (or change CoG). Stiffer shocks or springs will make the ride harsher and limit suppleness off-road anyway, an ARB isnt a bad compromise to be fair, especially with the x-eng kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 I think screwing about with the springs and dampers is the wrong path. Stiffer springs, including adding air springs is suggested as a last resort for on road use (deflated off road) is still going to increase harshness, not just roll resistance - speed bumps and pot holes will be horrible. I found the ride quite harsh on my wife's standard 2009 D90XS, much harsher than my 109 on 3 leaf front and 4 leaf rear HD parabolics. An antiroll bar will the better solution. Any other method just substitutes one discomfort for another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Take off the roll cage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 Just to update this thread. I fitted a rear anti roll bar yesterday and the handling is much better, much reduced rolling. I'm going to refit my old stiffer springs to the rear again as the disco rears have developed a list to the offside so that'll stiffen things up a bit further for this summer's continental jaunts. So many thanks for your input Gents, much obliged to you all. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 How are you finding the suppleness now Mo ?i remember you were keen to keep it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 I only fitted the anti roll bar yesterday Stephen, I guess time will tell. Once the trips are out of the way, I'll do what Si suggested and cut and sleeve it. I may look at another bar on the front and do likewise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 I only fitted the anti roll bar yesterday Stephen, I guess time will tell. Once the trips are out of the way, I'll do what Si suggested and cut and sleeve it. I may look at another bar on the front and do likewise. With the cutting and sleeving, what's to stop it working out sideways on each side? (obviously it can't go all the way out due to the linkages) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 A long enough sleeve? At the moment Ross I don't know, I'll consider the likelihood of that when the time comes. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 I'm more wondering about wheel to A.R.B clearance.... But I guess it can't go that far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 It's miles away from the wheels on the rear Ross, I can't ever see there being an issue. Until I Fit a front ARB I really couldn't say about the front. I'm more concerned about whether drilling the bar itself will weaken it and whether R clips will be strong enough to withstand the twisting forces. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 I wouldn't use R clips - I would use the spring clips used on tractor lift arms. They are designed to work harden. The sleeve needs to be after the right angle up to the chassis section - not on the main torsion section. Might be better to weld in nuts onto the chassis mount and simply undo at the top... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 I'd use tractor pto tube, put two peices of inner on each half of the ARB and then you can slide the outer bit over or offer to link/unlink. Your gonna struggle to keep a lynch pin shut when it's through a tube sideways on. You could always badger Simon to get his finger out and make one fit a td5. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 My 110 runs a bog standard set of ARBs taken off a 300 tdi discovery. Cost was nothing as I was breaking it! Like you I also have an locker in the rear so articulation isn't really the be all and end all of making progress through the twisty stuff. However, the following picture shows that even with the ARBs fitted the amount of articulation is still pretty good. However, a 110 is actually better at squeezing the most out of them by virtue of its' extra leverage. Should have got a barge mo :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 That looks pretty good Pikey, I'm impressed but hell will freeze before I have a barge ? I'm certainly looking at sticking an anti roll bar on the front now. Just need to order some more weld on brackets from YRM and borrow uncle's 90 to copy the location. Will, I suspect Simon is disinclined these days ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 That looks pretty good Pikey, I'm impressed but hell will freeze before I have a barge I'm certainly looking at sticking an anti roll bar on the front now. Just need to order some more weld on brackets from YRM and borrow uncle's 90 to copy the location. Will, I suspect Simon is disinclined these days Mo Mo you're welcome to the front ARB and brackets off the p38 to modify, if it helps. cheers, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 Sorry Steve, I missed your post. Very kind but there's plenty of defender ones on ebay for little money that won't require modification. Thanks for the offer. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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