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Camping Fridge


reb78

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Just to add, once cooled on gas, the thermostat is working as I can hear it clicking mid way through it's range in a different place to when it's warm.

I may be wrong, but think that the thermostat only controls 240v mode. Gas appears to be controlled via the gas regulator. Check by bypassing the thermostat and running on 240v.

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I may be wrong, but think that the thermostat only controls 240v mode. Gas appears to be controlled via the gas regulator. Check by bypassing the thermostat and running on 240v.

Yep. You are quite right. I added the comment just to confirm that the stat does seem to alter where it engages according to the temp. It's not doing anything (other than clicking when I turn it) when the unit is on gas.

I returned from my dog walk with the unit cooled to 10C on gas. I then switched to 240 v (wired through the thermostat) and, unlike last time, it's stayed cold and dropped further to about 5C now (2hrs from switching to 240)

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The various chemicals in the fridge cooling system can separate out and be difficult to mix back in just via the heating elements. One way to fix this is to drive over bumpy roads but an easier way is to (with the fridge disconnected from power/gas) turn the fridge upside down and leave for a couple of hours - then tumble the fridge by hand through all three planes - this mixes the chemicals and removes any internal blockages. This process is often necessary where a fridge has been sitting for a long time unused and everything settles down.

After this process the fridge will normally run better on gas and 240v - remember 12v is not likely to reduce temp but should maintain temp. Also make sure the flue/chimney system is working and that warm gases/heat escape via that system and not into the back of the fridge. Here in hotter climates we often have to add small computer fans to suck out the hot air at the rear of the fridge and I have a computer fan inside the fridge to circulate the air.

Having said all that 3 way fridges really do not work well at all when ambient temps get above about 28 degrees c.

Garry

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Thanks Garry,

I guess the question is though - why would it cool so well on gas, but fail to do so on 240v when, as far as i can tell, all of the components of the 240v system are working?

I did give it a turn and a shake yesterday (again), but it didnt improve the 240v cooling, but on gas it was frosty within 10 minutes.

Having said that, there has been an improvement as it has held about 3C all night on 240v after being pre-cooled on gas.

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Having checked the unit before I went to work at 8am having had it hold 3C all night on 240v, I popped back for lunch 4 hours later and the unit is now at 14C. It hasn't moved and there is still 240v to the element and the tubes at the back are as hot as they were last night. It's not in a warm room (certainly not above 20C), so I'm puzzled. My suspicion is that if I put it back on gas now, the temp will shoot back down.

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I wonder if Garry has hit the nail on the head above. It worked overnight (cooler ambient) and failed by lunchtime (warmer ambient) I put it outside this evening on gas and initially it remained rubbish, but as it's cooled down outside, the fridge has cooled much more internally.

Hottest ambient temp today was about 22C in the house. Disappointing if it can't cool at that temp.

I'm reluctant to spend anything more on it. Do you reckon I might get near my money back breaking it on ebay? 2 x 240v elements, 1 x 12v element, gas burner, door seal, thermostat?

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Also make sure the fridge is perfectly level - I use a bulls eye level on top of the fridge. 22 degrees should be Ok.

You have been testing the fridge on gas and 240v and you seem to think the 240v heater may be playing up. You need to check this.

I suggest you get a few bottles of water chilled in your house fridge and turn on the camping fridge on gas (thermostrat at 2/3) and get the temp stabilised (24 hours) with the bottles of water inside and note the temp. Then switch to 240v with the thermostat in the same position and note the temp after 24 hours. If ambient temps are stable the temp in the fridge should not have stayed the same if the 240 system is working OK. You need 2/3 thermostat to allow the fridge to turn itself up as the inside gets a little warmer.

Start the process again and after being on gas note the temp and switch to 12v - need a car battery on a charger. The 12v system just goes flat out and is not as good at cooling BUT should be able to hold the temp. So check that after another 24 hours the temp is still about the same as you started - do not open and close your fridge and you just take out any cold air.

Make sure your chimney is set up correct so the heat can get clear if the unit,

I have an inbuilt 3 way in my camper as well as a portable 3 way - I no longer use the portable 3 way for the reasons you have found and I have a small compressor fridge to possible go into the camper. I also have portable 25l and 55l compressor fridges that I use in different circumstances (the smaller as a freezer and the larger as a fridge). Basically the compressor fridges are the way to go but then I have spare batteries and a 120w solar panel.

However when my camper 3 way works it will keep my ice creams frozen but when it doesn't it will not even keep the drinking water cool

I feel your pain - been there and done that.

Garry

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  • 6 years later...
On 6/6/2016 at 9:47 PM, AMB said:

If you measured directly at the element wires and got open circuit, the element is knackered.

The thermostat should only click once during it's total travel - it should switch on/off (ie click) at the setting equivalent to the temperature inside the coolbox. Setting 1 is presumably the warmest.

I'm puzzled as to why you should get a change in resistance when measured at the thermostat terminals when you have open circuit at the 240v element. The element should be the only thing connected. You should be able to just bridge the stat - ideally with a meter on ac current. Check the stat by measuring impedance between the terminals (with no other connections to the fridge!). Should be near enough zero over most of the setting and open circuit at the warmest setting.

Have been half looking at an absorption box. What are you asking for yours 12 volt refrigerator?

I'm looking at a camping fridge to purchase and i'm on a slight budget. Is there any reviews on the Dometic CFF45? Also, recommendations on either the Engel Eclipse or the Dometic CFF45. Engel - $799 currently Dometic $599 currently Any help would be appreciated.

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We have a Dometic CFX35W. It’s a compressor fridge that runs on 230VAC or 12VDC. It’s a chest model and is in constant use for weeks at a time, running off a 100W solar panel.

It is perfect for our needs and is sitting here now at 4C when it’s the high 20s in the Landy. 

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On 6/25/2023 at 1:30 AM, saxere74 said:

I'm looking at a camping fridge to purchase and i'm on a slight budget. Is there any reviews on the Dometic CFF45? Also, recommendations on either the Engel Eclipse or the Dometic CFF45. Engel - $799 currently Dometic $599 currently Any help would be appreciated.

Can't help with reviews but if they publish meaningful numbers on power consumption in certain conditions that's worth comparing.

We went with Waeco CRX50 because it was available and uses something like 1.2Ah average at 20degC ambient, so very easy on the power budget in terms of battery capacity & solar.

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I have an old cf25 and a cf35, previously had a cf50. All are good fridges, they will go down to freezing and keep it there even in summer. I strongly recommend getting one with a temperature read out. Our cf35 doesn't have one and we've had issues where the power failed for a while (not the fridge) and didn't know until we got something out. I've since added a read out.

Mike

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This is relevant to my interests. I have a Waeco CF25 now (the old model with the manual sliders). It works really well, but has gotten a bit small with the dog getting fresh food that needs to be frozen. So now we get to choose between having food for the dog or food for us :D

There's also this thread:

From that it looks like the Alpicool is a pretty good deal? Are people still happy with those a few years later? Decathlon over here has the Alpicool CF40 for €319 at the moment, might be worth a punt (after some measuring).

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From what I've seen a lot of the fridges out there are using the same guts likely made in the same factory and just wrapping a slightly different shape/size of box around it with different electronics/features such as displays etc., often you can peer through the vents and see a label on the compressor that tells you who made it.

I've got a genuine Land Rover fridge (rare beastie) and the guts on that are Wabco. It's our backup beer fridge for LeMans :lol:

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I bought tweetyducks National Luna weekender in the end. Brilliant fridge/freezer. Kept the ice cream frozen and beers cool in Mediterranean heat across France. Low power comsumption. Think I ran it for five days on the starter battery at one point (without starting) and it started the car fine when we moved on. 

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