Peaklander

However you did run the engine after that though. I'm a bit confused and feel as though there's something for me to learn here. 😀

I have previously pulled the shorter side off as a whole and I have just enough room to pull it right out I think. On the longer side though I'm not sure. On that side of my garage I do have the width if I use the underside of the workbench which is 'open' but I'd be faffing around with the weight whilst bent double underneath the bench. So I might try to rest them on small stands as Dave suggests.😃 What I didn't mention is that I have found a 'hidden' Series 2a with full tilt from March 1964. I don't think it has moved for many years as DVLA say untaxed since 2011. It might be one of those that the owner says is "going to be put back on the road" but I would like to approach him. The only problem is that Mrs Peaklander is not really understanding my pleas of "it would be an investment anyway, even if I don't get round to doing it".

Land Rover related, I have a lot of little jobs to sort on my 110 300TDi. I am fitting a Spafax mirror to replace my broken MudStuff XL where the plastic snapped inside. I though it would be straight-forward, as I removed the top hinge at the door side (to thread the wire back in) but I found that the hinge pin as a slack as a slack thing. So waiting for a new hinge which will need painting. I am going to remove my front diff as I am sure its worn. That will be a first for me. I also need to reduce the noise from my Eber D2 heater which is disturbingly noisy on start-up and for as long as it stays on full bore heating. I don't know why it is so bad but I am going to experiment with exhaust position relative to the pipe it's connected to. Have the MOT booked in a couple of weeks but that's straightforward nowadays.

Brilliant. It was diesel then, so @Red90 was on the money. How did that push rod get bent? Do you have any idea?

As I have discovered after fitting an oil pressure gauge to my 300TDI, it takes a long time for the oil to get to operating temperature (indicated by lower pressure). It is much longer than the water temperature takes to get to normal. My water gauge is normal within about 10mins but the oil pressure (temperature) follows after about 30mins and even then when the vehicle isn't worked hard the pressure remains higher. So I agree with the learned ones, that a much longer drive might help.

The voltage variation that you are seeing is exactly what we had with our 300TDi when the fault was the diode pack. It is a very cheap fix of around £10 and with ours the alternator was left in position. There is a thread somewhere on here I think that describes how to do it. The key part is when refitting the new pack, the brushes have to be held in the up position to allow it to be put into position on the alternator. This is done with a paper clip pushed through a tiny hole, which is there for this very purpose. Once over the rotor, the pin is removed and the brushes spring down into the contact position. Edit: I hope this is the same alternator as yours...

Does this mean that you might not bother fitting any doors to save weight? 🤷‍♂️

I'm still hijacking... this is my snorkel. It doesn't have a spigot as you can see. Are you meaning that a watertight seal is possible between item 2 in the diagram and the 'non-spigotted' face of my Safari? Sorry about the size of the pics, I can't get them smaller. Usually it's no problem doing so.

I can’t work out who they are. That first pile was at the overnight stop in the first pic. On the otherside of the road is a big burn and it was between the road and water. That was an amazing place with no light and as there was no moon I got a stiff neck gazing up. Virtually no traffic either after dark. On Kintyre, people had made fires on small areas of turf instead of a few steps away in the pebble beach. They don’t remove the turf and replace after as a good Boy Scout would do.

The Edit button is now selected by clicking the three dots at the top right of your posts. I don't know the time limit on it now but it used to be an hour and then the function is removed. Edit: Like this

If I might be allowed a little thread hijack, I have a second-hand Safari snorkel on the shelf waiting to be fitted. I was a little hasty buying it (I thought it was a bargain) and I didn't realise that some are like this as Arjan says. I too have this type that bolts against the wing but I want mine to be watertight (rather than just a raised intake). I don't know how I would do that without the spigot that was fitted to the earlier versions. I'm wondering if I can add some sort of DIY spigot so that I can continue with sealed pipes to the filter housing. If anyone has used one of these and sealed it properly, I'd be grateful for some guidance.

We have just returned from ten nights in our 110. It's been a little road trip through Argyll & Bute and what a lovely area it is. There are no shots of green lanes, so look away now if that's your bag. The Eberspacher D2 that I installed last year (with some trouble), has really worked well. Not because it was cold, although it is nice to warm a living space from 8C to 20C in 10 minutes but it helped get us dry towards the end of the trip, when the heavens opened. We even managed a visit to look at a well documented and very nice, new-build workshop. It looks even better in the flesh! Thanks to @Retroanaconda for a socially distanced cuppa. Most campsites are closed or if open, the facilities are closed. We are self-sufficient until the Porta Potti needs emptying but we can stretch that out to about three days. Camping at the side of the road / beach is tolerated and we did this for 7 out of 10 nights. However people abuse this and we had to clear-up at a couple of places and roll-back someone else's muddy ruts too. It's a great time of year to visit the west coast, with the temperature in the day maxing between 8 and 12 C but the nights are longer than the days now, so sightseeing moved to Milky Way and meteorite watching when the weather allowed, which it did for the most part. Mennock Valley in the Southern Uplands These people need to be severely dealt with:- The Kyles of Bute Ferry to Tarbert on Kintyre Sunrise with Arran in the foreground Northern Ireland from the Mull of Kintyre - only 12 miles across. Ailsa Craig in the distance from the Mull of Kintyre Machrihanish Overnight stop and the view up the west side of Knapdale Looking towards Luing and Seil On the route home, towards Loch Lomond - a classic view

It's reviewed here too but it might be behind a paywall. Apologies if it is. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/land-rover/land-rover-defender-90-review-worth-wait/

Gerry Mulligan shipped his 110 CSW with Alucab roof to/from South America, returning just before lockdown. There’s plenty of detail about container shipping in his blog. The packup for the return is here. https://www.celtic-rover.com/shipping-home/

Thank you @monkiefor providing further detailed explanations. It's very helpful to read this in the light of so much chatter elsewhere about testing and helps me understand the challenges around providing mass testing.

I have it. Stored safely now until...

What a heck of a story. Well done for hanging in there.

I adapted a new TD5 bulkhead to a Series as the original was toast. I salvaged just a single panel. It was cheap to do it then (2007) as the new bulkhead was <£200 I think. The spot welds needed to be cut out, then I used Series footwells and some custom made panels at the side of the tunnel. Fitted it to the vehicle and spot welded back together. the wiper motor panel and a few other bits had to be removed but it pretty much turned into a Series bulkhead. I knew nothing at all about Land Rovers or repairing them so my starting point was zero. Edit: The idea came from the guy at Glencoyne. It's on his website.

I had a similar problem with my DA sander and ordered new brushes when a cleanup of the commutator failed. I was a bit suspicious as the old ones still had some length in them but it seemed to work better. Not long after it stopped again. It was one of the two support bearings which had gone tight. A very few £ later and it's perfect again.

I towed caravans for years, behind cars. I'm pretty sure that the guideline was max towing weight no more than 75% of the towing vehicle's weight. Also it is noseweight / noseweight, noseweight! I submitted a test report to the caravan club for an Avondale caravan that I was towing behind a big Audi. Instead of commenting on the 75% achieved, I was laughed at in their magazine article for having such a 'mismatched' combo.

During my replacement I also removed the steering column. That was because the top of the footwell was thin and I had to repair the panel above it. I didn't realise that I would need to do this until I started the job. I would certainly remove the pedal boxes, they mount on the upper part of the footwell anyway. Perhaps it's just the lower part that you are repairing. I've added pics to show the extent of the well and the size of the job in my case.

The indicator lamp on the dash is the one used for hazard as well as normal. You can’t just swap it for an led. It needs a couple of diodes in the circuit too that isolate one side from the other. These are ‘built in’ to the legs of the rdx one. As I said it’s an way swap but it does cost £25-30 IIRC.

What has been said above, plus have you done anything with the dash indicator warning lamp? If not then it won’t work correctly with led bulbs in the indicators because of the way in which it is wired to be common to both sides. With the filament bulbs this didn’t matter but it does with leds. The easiest way to fix it is to buy the rdx kit which replaces that dash warning lamp with an led one that overcomes the issue. You can find it on eBay.

At launch, some makers’ cars are often only available with black trims and rub strips. This allows the manufacturer time to get the colour match exact as they are often bought-in.

White smoke can be steam or unburnt diesel. If steam, it disappears quickly in the air whereas if it’s diesel the smell lingers.