cackshifter

Try YRM; I think I have seen something like that there.

I wouldn't normally bother with them, but they popped up in a search for non LR car parts , and they have a promo (code 'early') running this week which seems to be pretty good, at about 50% off, and if they have what you want, puts them in the pricing realms of cheap to reasonable, eg Mann ERR3390 filters 4.19 with discount. I have no interest or connection with them, but thought I'd put it on here in case anyone else wanted to make use of it. (Mods, I hope this is Ok)

Nice! You may be able to program the inverter for a softer start.

It seems overkill but here are Turbo Technics fitting instructions link, it does make you wonder how manufacturers do it when the engine is being built.

And fill the turbo with oil before fitting the feed, check oil comes out of the feed by cranking before fitting it, and crank it over for 30 secs with oil pressure before allowing the engine to run.Check the drain is working too. Plus what Mike says.

Someone on here was talking of using one from a Suzuki something on here, plus there is the bilge blower mod.

Have you somehow managed to correct the speedo on the 35s?

Is it possible there is some degree of option in where the flywheel mounts on the crank, as that relationship also come into play? You must have had that apart to regrind the crank. Apart from that it does sound like you may not have the belt quite right. The timing kits are available with and without DTI on ebay, and doubtless elsewhere, and there are videos of it on youtube.

It'll buff out.

I hope this helps if you don't already know - From the 1996 manual Make & type - standard .................................................... Bosch KBAL 90 P37 Nozzle type ...................................................................... DSLA 145P366 Opening pressure (working pressure) .............................. Initial pressure 200 atmospheres, Secondary 280 atmospheres from defendersource... Also could you please verify that the pop-off for the 2.8 injector (0 432 193 532) is 201 bar while the 300 TDI (0 432 193 835) is 200 bar.

Just a suggestion , before you dive into the pump changes, check the external things - the smoke can be too much fuel or not enough air. So Is there a collapsed air hose or a loose clip? A flattened exhaust? A manifold leak? Is it very oily on the inlet side? Etc etc - you get the idea. It sounds like something 'happened' - it doesn't have to be inside the pump.

You 'could' contemplate a R380/stumpy conversion a la western - then you could go for the R380 bearing upgrades, though western hasn't reported much trouble and he does galactic mileage.

It's true the revs are less but with an overdrive the input torque and therefore bearing load will be correspondingly greater - assuming the same power is needed to propel you and surrounding hardware at the same speed. I'd wonder if you are using the best oil for this? There isn't much else you have influence over.

Not entirely dissimilar to BA228 Except on pricing.

Just a mention of the Corsa B power steering - the principle is fine - but in this case you are talking essentially a wiper motor assisting - they were, shall we say, not known for their reliability or durability on Corsas. I'm sure you won't be bumping up the kerb to park or doing intergalactic mileage but...

As the brakes work but not as well as you hope for, maybe just check how much vacuum the servo is getting - pumps can gradually deteriorate and though you get some help the eagerness is gone. Or maybe there is a small leak.

Put me down for 2 please (hypothetically obviously)

Good look for Halloween though. Every cloud...

I had a metal one re-cored with 4 cores at a local firm about 3 years ago , 2 guys who do things the old ways. I think it was just over £200. However they sold Nissens plastic/ali radiators and reckoned they were OK, also thought they cooled better, and said it would be a cheaper than a re-core but they'd do either.

I had a footwell leak and it turned out to be coming from a bolt holding the door retaining bracket to the bulkhead. You may well be correct about the origin, goodness knows there are enough places it can come in, but before doing anything remedial, I'd try to prove your theory by getting a helper with a hose to wet areas while you look inside. You may have to remove some trim. Once the source is established a fix is usually simple, and worth testing after to prove it is fixed - there may be more than one leak.

I meant to post this link on the prev post link. I'd say a up30 or up32 would be best; the up28 only has half the life.

I think they may be hella pumps really. Just search for hella vacuum pump, google or ebay.

Found it! Here is the link & within it a link to the actual suggested pump..link

I do recall someone recommending the Audi vacuum pumps; can't find the link

Its the lump of plastic underneath the big gearwheel that you need to move 180. The one rhat pushes on the park switch. How you insert thw gearwheel doesn't matter a jot