cackshifter

Yes, but they have recently changed their minds....link. You pays your money and takes your choice....

If you have adequate vocabulary, the dexterity of a brain surgeon and the strength of king Kong you can do it in situ. If you take the clutch pedal box out it's easy to do on the bench, but then you have to bleed the clutch, and there is more work overall.

Yes here it is linky. Though a quick ebay trawl of suzuki fans suggest there may be others

Dredging up from memory there is a Suzuki fan that is similar to the LR one - can't remember the details.

Some dial gauges, if you unscrew the tip, have the same threads as a bicycle spoke if you need a long thin probe

It must be pretty old; I started playing with things that might have SUs in the 60s (and some of those things were old) but they all had the plastic damper screw. 1 1/4" is pretty small, they were fitted to things like ordinary Minis , A35s and 1100s - I think it might be on the small side for a Series. On some at least the float bowls swivelled - you set them to be level, whereas the venturi part could be semi-downdraught, ie sloping towards the engine.

You might also look at LOF and Clutchfix clutches. The 130 LR clutch is marginally better than the standard (both normally Valeo) as it is slightly bigger, though both seem to have a tendency to lose the middle of the clutch plate before they are worn out. I guess it depends what you do to them. Swivels can be replaced individually but the odds are if one is worn the other will be similar. The clutch fork strengthening is a must (the ball it pivots on my be worn also). Change the spigot bearing in the centre of the flywheel if replacing the clutch. Check the rear seal on the engine isn't leaking - if you have to replace it follow the procedure for that scrupulously, with no trace of oil on the surface the seal contacts. I don't like spacers because of their tendency to come undone. I use 265/75 tyres on rims with a greater offset - I have had no wheel bearing or swivel issues but I probably am not stressing things to the same degree.

Tefgel is a cleaner alternative to duralac.

Or.. maybe some propane injection? Just a thought, I'll get my coat.....

There is the permanent live (purple wire fused I think 15A) in the right rear end, with all the lighting connections. That is doing duty running a fridge for us but it could easily take a charging connection.

If it is timing, it would probably be too retarded - but you timed it up when doing the timing belt, right? So.. either there is a mistake there - relatively easily fixed , or maybe there isn't enough compression. If it was OK before the rebuild, it is most likely something you have changed as part of that. Pump timing is easily checked without dismantling except for removing the little cover on the timing case. Even if that is Ok it could be the camshaft is wrong though.

I have mixed views of Ebc green stuff. Twice I have had the pad material separate from the backing. They work satisfactorily, but don't seem better than Ferodo.

I think, just think mind,300 TDI disco ones might fit. No doubt an adult will advise.

I have a feeling Ashcroft's have a mention of the bearing supporting 5th gear gradually failing on R380s

I'd check that the phasing of the u/js is correct - documented in the manual. Also - try to build it back up so that the grease nipples are all more or less in line . It's obvious it's a good thing to do the first time you try to grease it in situ, saves having to rotate the shaft halfway through. Re the hub seals, you may want to consider the RTC3511 double lipped seal and cut the inner seals to let the oil through to the bearings.

I have had 2 Richards chassis. The first one was the subject of a Vic check and the vosa inspector went all over it (in 2010) and declared himself very happy, so the construction method didn't bother him. Both chassis have been great, absolutely no issues.

If you have a leaking hub seal do yourself a favour and check that the axle breather is clear, the banjo bolts tend to attract carp, then the axle pressurises slightly when warm

Does anyone know how having a cooler affects the oil change? Do you have to drain it separately? And what about refilling?

I have a brass one, had it re-cored with a 4 core at B and J radiators at Little Hulton. It has a full width Alisport intercooler in front of it, the 300tdi engine has the Bell/Alisport VNT . Last Friday it was mighty hot and we towed the horse and trailer pretty much as fast as it would all go, but usually near 60, across the M62 and back. I was expecting maybe a hint of overheating on the climb to Saddleworth but was pleased to say there were absolutely no issues. The transmission tunnel you couldn't touch even for a moment, so that is maybe another thing, but it shows how hot it all was. I have noticed some water pumps have smaller impellers than others, if you are swapping the pump I'd make sure it at least matches what you have (I once bought a Quinton Hazell water pump with a smaller impeller than stock which my Mini took exception to if worked hard, so I am conscious of that)

Because tourist hunting is the national sport of the NZ constabulary in their unmarked Commodores

And I can see it could be a theft deterrent.

Also used in the Dodge 50.

That's very good to hear. It shows the benefit of a dry climate. But do bear in mind that the B post is snuggled up to the aluminium rear of the seatbox and if it gets wet or even worse, wet and salty bad things happen.

Very nice piece of kit. I like the way they have piped the oil drain out beyond the baseplate so it doesn't make a mess when oil changing. I'd change the oil at some point btw; use something decent for compressors (IR do their own)

You might change the spigot bearing in the end of the crank if you have one - they can be a swine to get out