bishbosh

I have run my 4.4TDV8 L322 for 6 years and near enough 60k miles and my real MPG (not the porkies the car tells you) is typically in the 25-27MPG range. I don't drive it like I stole it but I I do make full use of the engine's power and make sure both turbos get a regular workout I think unless you get given a known good engine and have access to spectacularly competent auto electrician who will give lots of time for free then I can't see the maths (even man maths) working for a conversion on fuel economy grounds. 😕 Even then, you might need a power bulge in the bonnet to fit it in over the axle as has been said. The other thing to consider is what will you put behind it? The 8 speed ZF box is fantastic but not sure the P38 will have space for it? Having written all that, have you driven an L322? Very different beast to the L405. Replacing the P38 with an L322 might be your best bet ?

I am amazed nobody has asked how the fcuk did @Exmoor Beast get into those seats......... not even going to mention Senor @Nonimouse 😁🤣

My first check having cleared all faults would be the battery. They are incredibly sensitive to battery charge and it is very easy for them to throw all sorts of faults if the battery is anything other than A1. Perhaps try another known good battery? Can you log live values with your code reader? Might be worth seeing battery voltage when trying to start?

More like “most snorkels never see much use” 😆

Given how dangerous hard shoulders are I would be amazed if they did anything other than cart you off to a place of safety and then worry about charging.

I’m just going to throw this out there…… low traction side slope and locking diffs…..😳

I wouldn’t worry about snorkel height. You’re better off having it lower than the top of the vehicle to give it a chance of avoiding those pesky overhanging branches. I would probably allow 3 tube diameters for the cage and clearance to the door frame so say 150mm above the roof.

BZP without an overcoat of something is not worth the effort in my opinion. Just look at the BZP bolts in your garage. They’ve probably already started to corrode before seeing any real corrosive elements like road salt. If you can get them hot dipped it would be worth every penny I think.

Jim, I can do them. I’m in Bristol on Tuesday or travelling from High Wycombe to Cranleigh on Friday?

@paime take a look at fullfatrr.com. Excellent buying guide in the wiki.

Was a supporter since day 1 but immediately stopped the second you started giving out badges for it. 😕

@smallfry if you have no time for cyclists then I hope you surrender your driving licence at the earliest opportunity. Not watched the video, nor will I as I don't need to to know that there are cock sockets in all walks of life but as a road user one should always give the most respect to the most vulnerable, regardless of their c-socket status. Attitudes like yours lead to more animosity, aggressive behaviour and injury. Do I ride a bike? Yes, a lot, but almost entirely off road because there are too many c-sockets in motorised vehicles on the roads.

My L322 has 700Nm as standard and the autobox is epic. 😛 The autobox behind the TD6 is the suspect one - don't go there!

What did the paint tin say about the age of the substrate? I struggled to find anything inexpensive that could cover a concrete floor less than something like 6 months old because of the out gassing during curing.

I have Stihl battery garden tools and cannot fault them. Light, powerful and the batteries last ages and charge quickly. So far my collection is lawn mower, strimmer , long reach hedge trimmers and a leaf blower. I have 2 batteries and have never had to wait for one to charge.

If you buy a bare tool make sure you have some BIG batteries - my cordless grinder goes through them way faster than any of my other cordless tools. I'd also subscribe to the corded is more powerful than cordless camp - my ancient green bosch grinder is way more powerful than my new brushless bosh cordless.... I can easily stall my cordless with a slitting desk never mind a flap wheel!

😀😀you don’t want to be asking Daan that question! Prepare to be disappointed and amazed in equal measure!

Be careful trying to mill with a drill press. Depending on how it is mounted (often Morse taper) if you don’t have vertical pressure on the tip of the cutter the chuck can fall off…..

@FridgeFreezer - if you do go for a mill I would avoid ones with round columns - you cannot adjust the head height without losing your centre which is a real pain. I tried all sorts of tricks to try and solve this problem when I had a mill (Warco Major IIRC) and never managed it. The mill itself was a pretty good size for what I needed but the lack of ability to accurately change the head height was a lot more of a hindrance than I had expected.

What is this people talk of moisture in the car? Surely one just turns the A/C on to preserve the Axminster?

I wouldn't touch a TDV6. Whilst there are plenty that haven't gone wrong, if they do go wrong it is a huge bill that more than likely cannot be justified against the value of the car. You cannot tell if you have a good one or a bad one until it is too late so just too binary a risk for me. It is not as if it might only go a bit wrong and cost a few hundred quid to fix is it.... In my village I have 3 friends with TDV6 discoveries. Two have had new engines in their ownership. One was lucky as it was under warranty from LR, the second had a £12k bill on a £20k car and the third is selling his! Anyhow, with the prices of used discoveries at the moment being so inflated (even by current standards) I would be looking at a TDV8 rangie, and a 4.4 at that.

Don't know if it the same configuration as an L322, but the exhaust on an L322 is a conical brass filter screwed directly to the compressor itself. No pipework involved.

Pfft, substantiated facts from an informed source? That'll never catch on! In all seriousness, very interesting reading and looking forwards to hearing your views (and some facts if you must!) on hydrogen. One question - you say the batteries are lasting the design life of the EV. What is that design life and how does it compare to current IC vehicles' design lives?

For me, putting the sustainability issues to one side for a second, there is also the issue that when an EV becomes affordable to me it will be several years old and at the speed the EV technology is moving it will be horribly out of date, without even mentioning the questionable longevity of the (very expensive) battery pack. So I can see there being a very limited second hand market for EV's until the technology development has plateaued somewhat.

I read somewhere recently that 60-70k miles is the break even point. Can’t remember where though.