steve b

Hi Erik What about having your existing pump reworked inside ? Not sure how far you would need to ship but there must be a VE specialist a state or two away ? Got any more pic's to share from your wonderful piece of planet Earth ? cheers Steveb

Hi Les good to have you around again , I think Escape mentioned on another thread to pull fuse 44 to isolate the EAS in sleep mode , not sure if he meant only when in sleep mode so that you need to put it back to start ? Someone else - Elbekko ? maybe said there is a wire you can snip on one of the BeCM plugs iirc to kill any EAS activity in sleep mode , but can't remember which wire . It was in a recent thread maybe in Range Rover Forum hth Steveb

Ah I see , something else I've learnt about P38's , still wonder about the rust being thrown out around the crank boss. Also noticed what looks to be quite fresh sump sealer on one of the pics suggesting the sump has been off recently . cheers Steveb

If you can start it then surely the flex plate is not broken ? it may still be cracked though . If you unbolt the TC there should be clearance to push it away from the flexplate a little then you can tap the FP with a small hammer and see if it rings or is dull ? The rust around the crank boss/FP joint may indicate movement in that area? cheers Steveb

I think you are overdue on making an offering to the Home Workshop Gods .....the usual way of throwing something really hard and really far sometimes helps on a more mundane note what were you doing when it let go ? Unusual for a Record vice cheers Steveb

another vote for a brake roller test , it will show you exactly whats happening cheers Steveb

By stabiliser you mean the steering damper ? the horizontally mounted shock absorber like device on the drag link ? It should be fitted as it stops that small shake you mentioned . If you have anti-roll bars then check the links to the axles for free play , also check the steering is centred and there is the correct setting on the backlash adjustment on the top of the box . Ultimately though there is little you can do to stop tramlines in tarmac pulling LandRovers one way or the other , wide tyres don't help , but if everything else is nice and tight then it shouldn't feel unstable . Good to know you have made progress cheers Steveb

Wow an AgRover , that's a rare beastie for sure Steveb

if they are original , they will be black with 5mm ring terminals , and should connect the speedo and fuel/temp housings , also the -ve power plug back to the loom - black as well . Check for continuity with a meter after connecting ,one probe on housing metalwork and one to battery -ve bon chance Steveb

...turn one over ? look good Ross , a forum batch sounds like a good idea Steveb

With smaller rods you shouldn't need to have the power up so high ? 1.6 or 2.0 mm rods should be enough for 3mm material thickness I'd say , but I don't stick weld as much as MIG/MAG cheers Steveb

Good to hear when you do get out exploring take plenty of pic's for us to see cheers Steveb

...for garlic bulbs ? ok that's shallot for now hat, coat ...gone Steveb

put up a pic of the wiring to the back of the gauge , there may be something there that you haven't spotted ? Unlikely but worth a try . The earth should only be for the backlight bulb usually , the gauge itself goes to earth via the sensor - more/less pressure = more/less resistance at the sensor = needle rise/fall . The fact that the needle is going to full deflection with only the ign on suggests no resistance on the sensor side , ie the circuit is made to earth so try it with no earth at the dash end and the wiring connected to the sensor cheers Steveb

The White wire that was plugged into the +ve side of the coil goes to the fuel stop solenoid The glow plug relay is pretty easy too , if you have the relay socket with the wires in it , the heavy brown goes to the battery , the heavy black/yellow goes to the HP's , the small black/yellow goes to the choke warning light wire , the white goes to the ignition live - you can use the same one as the IP stop solenoid and the black is earth . hth Steveb

What about some like Daan's got on his truck ? nice and retro but wide enough for modern tyre sizes finished in metallic black? Cheers Steveb

Of course check all the trackrod's /susp. bushes/kingpin's/rear axle balljoint and all the nut's and bolts that hole these parts together and the tracking too - I'd do all this regardless of any problem's or not with a new to me vehicle . A good set of matching tyres will still be needed after this imho for predictable , safe handling. Keep us updated as you get on , it will be interesting to hear how the investigations go cheers Steveb

The collets give a much more accurate run out tolerance/repeatablility gripping the workpiece better than even the best 3 jaw chuck , and will hold tight without marking the surface too. With good tight bed and cross-slide ways internal/external cylindrical grinding (with the appropriate head attachment) can be carried out too A nice bit of kit Nige , worth the wait cheers Steveb

...I should have left it at the suppliers.....a new OEM def front prop in a bag with Britpart label on , this was to replace one that was 18 months old that the client had fitted himself that had thrown all the needles out of both uj's in 4k miles . The one I took off had the same irrelevant QC passed sticker on it so can only assume it was from the same source . I replaced the grease nipples with long ones that the grease gun actually fits and bolted up . I then greased up only to see grease coming out round the circlip on one cup , the end has split away from the rest of the cup ...........I mean ffs it's not rocket science is it ? It's clear to me that Britpart have no engineering or manufacturing standards at all , I know what I'd like to do with it , but I'll just take it off and return it . The client still has the original genuine LR one with slight spline wear so I'll be fitting Hardy Spicer uj's to it and fitting that . Never again , utter carp cheers Steveb

7.50's on the front and 235's on the back ? even if they are all radial ply it would still have an effect on handling , and if they are mixed construction then you are probably lucky to not have had a major off are the wheels all the same ? mixing offset's side to side is not good either . Sort the tyres out first . As for checks , I'd start with kingpin slack and/or ineffective steering damper , but really on a 4 yr old road used Defender none of these mechanical things should have failed . cheers Steveb

Too much clearance between the contactors ? is the locating lug in the same place as the old one ? cheers Steveb

.....if any of it happens I'd be amazed .......it's elections in May so tis the season of wondrous promises of ££££'s on roads / healthcare/ education/ net immigration reduction and so on and so on and what will happen ? bu66er all ...not cynical in anyway Steveb

there is someone advertising on eblag making new 86/88/107/109 S1 bulkheads and from the pics they look pretty good in , zintec too The 80" BH was originally pressed/welded steel , then for a brief period ( around 1950/1) they made them from angle iron for the main frame and riveted ally panels infilling - this was due to sheet steel being in short supply I seem to remember reading somewhere years ago . They do look a bit hand made but that's what they were . When sheet steel became more available they went back to the original style Not sure of the availability of 107" chassis , as above , I'd join the S1 club as a start and maybe try Richards or Marsland Chassis? Some pics of them would be nice to see too cheers Steveb

We use nitrogen and helium iirc for stainless and aluminium , I'll have a look at the mix ratio's when I'm in later cheers Steveb

Have you thought about using oxygen instead of air ? this will improve the cut quality considerably , it's what we use on the Esprit HD at work . cheers Steveb