elbekko

Providing an alignment mark with the woodruff key seems like the best option to me.

Looks a bit like it could be a support structure, but on the other hand it doesn't seem to be structured enough for that, so maybe just the printing that doesn't stop right at the edge?

This thread Bill? http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/85537-chooks-defender-110-a-61.html

Normal bumper bolts are M10 yeah, but I think the extra two are bigger holes?

Statically you should be able to work it out based on unsprung weight (axle weight). Apart from that... a forklift and a tape measure?

Is it 4 or 6 bolts? But yeah, 8.8 should be adequate.

That's a good way to grenade your centre diff if you don't have the upgraded cross pin.

The BeCM is on a different data line than the EAS ECU, so no worries there

The ELM interface works on P38s. The GEMS ones are only OBD1, and the live data isn't always correct, but fault reading and resetting works well. On the Bosch it just works, as they're OBD2. You can make a cheap cable and use some free software to do the EAS stuff

Amongst all the marketing talk I still haven't found how the damn thing actually works! Just the one wire from the welder can't be used to power an electromagnet, so it must have a battery inside? Or is it really just a permanent magnet that you screw down (and thus would still pick up swarf)?

Sounds interesting, but I see a few issues: 1) It would also interfere with the subwoofer on the top-line audio systems 2) Would it be possible to accomodate for larger tyre sizes (265/75R16)? Maybe you can build it on the other side?

The only way you can get a steering rack on the axle without bump steer is having a vertical steering shaft with a lot of slip... which isn't all that realistic. There are ways to minimize articulation bumpsteer though. With some gearing, if you make it so the steering shaft has to do a lot of turns for little effort, articulation will have very little effect on the steering. Of course this would probably introduce some extra slop into the system, which is probably more than the bumpsteer would've been.

Good question. They seem to swing together on a LHD vehicle, and against each other on a RHD vehicle. RAVE shows the rear chassis mounting point to be on the left side of the chassis, which would be the same as is needed in the front to not have bumpsteer. Actually somewhat surprised, as usually LR products seem to be designed for RHD. Or they were designed to cross, but I'm not sure what advantage that would bring...

Have a look on lpgforum.co.uk. If at all possible, do the install yourself, it'll be so much cleaner. I've seen some **** the "specialists" do to a vehicle...

Yes, a panhard would work just as well, but would make the axle swing in an arc. See the setup on a P38, 2 panhards and radius arms all around.

Exactly, if anything the video is useful because it shows YOU what the weak point is. The ones that want to get in already know.

Applying 12V to it seems dangerous, unless there's a voltage regulator on the line...

The RRC had a 3-speed auto (TF727) and a 4-speed auto (4HP22). Behind this first an LT230, with manual difflock, and later the Borg Warner case with a viscous coupling (automatic difflock). Sounds like you have a 4HP22 + BW.

A TD5 in a Classic would be pretty nice, but not much precedent strangely. The 300TDi is grossly underpowered for the Classic, but if you have luck it's not bad. I'd go for a V8 with LPG.

Sadly, it looks to be way more rotten than just the sills he mentions...

Vacuum operated diff lock on a BW?

That's that you're running way too rich and the excess fuel is igniting in the exhaust. This may affect your lambda readings when it happens. See what cells you're in when it happens and tone them down a bit yourself.

Every V8 I know runs NGK BPR6ES, which are resistor plugs.

That's strange, it isn't easy to get into a P38...

That looks fun