monkie

I think you have a couple of issues here. 1. You should be seeing more than 9v.are you getting just 9v at the battery terminals? 2. You might have the ignition switch wired up incorrectly. Just connect the brown 12v wire up for now then with your multimeter see what terminal becomes live as you move the key to the different positions. Basically you should expect all terminals to be off with the key out. Then different ones become live with the key in the different positions... I have a post on this somewhere on my re wire thread. The brown/red wire should be connected to the terminal on the back of switch which becomes live as you hold the key in the pre-heat position.

I thought this would be helpful to share for others doing an overhaul. So I took some pictures to show you. I have completely stripped down a Defender spec 200Tdi engine for overhaul. I wanted to replace the crankshaft Bush or spigot (LFB50050) but it was in tight and wouldn't drop out nor was I able to get it out with my finger and I didn't want to apply heat to the end of the crankshaft. I have read that you can pack the end of the crankshaft with grease then place a tight fitting cylindrical object and hit with a hammer to hydraulically push the Bush out. This comes with a warning that you might cover yourself in grease and it will leave a mess behind. I then read (possibly on here) that an old trick is to use bread (yes, ordinary bread from the kitchen cupboard) in a similar manner but it won't leave a greasy mess. Sounded too good to be true so in the name of science I thought I'd try it. Success! I put bread in the end of the crank, turned it up vertically resting on a piece of wood then just a few firm taps with a hammer onto a reduction adapter that I didn't mind hitting and it moved up and out. Quick and easy, so hear are the photos.

I think you've hit the nail on the head there. I've had to use recovery once for a fuel filter problem letting air into the fuel system. It took me ages to get recovered home. For the sake of a 10 minute job I could have done it myself with some simple tools. I also carry a light and hi vis jacket. Same goes if you have a puncture (provided you can pull over to a safe place to carry out the change)

Ah right, I wondered if there was 300/200tdi confusion. I got a rebuild kit for a 200tdi from Turners engineering. It contains the valve and spring as part of the kit

The oil pump on the 300Tdi is very different to that on the 200Tdi so the parts are not interchangable. Pictures below from Land Rover Workshop:

I haven't needed one on my 110...yet but have a spare just in case. Sod's law will come into play if don't have one and you will hae a punture within weeks I carry one mostly for piece of mind. I also carry some hex keys, screw driver set, spanners and a socket plus a fuel lift pump and fuel filter all under the driver's seat set just in case.

I am expecting a new one to arrive on Monday from Turners. I will see how it compares to your pictures.

Do that plus a nice thick earth wire to each corner going back to the battery.

Thank you. That is all in good order, as is the camshaft.

Me again, I'd ordinarily not think twice about this, but seeing as I'm about to blow £400 on parts from Turners I want to double check. I've got down to the bearing shells now on the 200tdi I'm stripping down. The main bearing shells have 010 stamped on them, the big end shells have 020 on them. Before I spend my money on a big order from Turners for parts, please could someone confirm that I am right in understanding the main journals must be 10 thou under and the big end 20 thou under? Good news is that pistons and bores are in great condition so atleast I've saved some money there.

Thank you all. I took my 110 up to Stafford from Yeovil and back in a day and it performed really well (I did wonder if the 19J would give up and I'd be returning on a flatbed). So I am in no rush with this at all. The 200tdi seems to be in good condition, Ian replaced the pistons 5 or 6 years ago and the crowns look to be in excellent condition with no cracks and the bores aren't glazed or scored and have a good cross hatch pattern. I am renewing the oil pump internals plus all seals and gaskets and I'll inspect the bearings to decide if they're still good or could do with replacing so I will hopefully end up with a good reliable engine coupled to a nice R380 stumpy gearbox and rebuilt LT230. I have a tin of gold engine enamel so it will look as good as @western 200Tdi when I'm done Then my focus will have to be the back axle before it forces me to act!

I've started to strip down the engine I got from @ianmayco68 at the weekend. Upon taking the cylinder head off I see some marks on the head and block that look like the head gasket had started to fail (Elring gasket) on cylinder #1. Other than this everything else looks to be in good shape head and block wise. What's the collective opinion on getting the head checked out to see if a skim is necessary? I did notice that some head bolts came undone very easy and others were in damn tight. A new set of head bolts in on my list from Turners. The pictures are of the head, gasket and block respectively.

I have no experience with Td5 engines so I can't offer any detailed trouble shooting with ECU and sensor faults. I can however suggest you tackle the simple issues first by trying what the LR technician told you before you move on to other things. Make sure your battery is in a good state of charge. Check the terminal connections to the battery are clean and secure. Take a thick jump lead and connect it to somewhere on the engine block near the starter motor and the other end directly to the negative battery terminal. If your issue is a broken earth - this will bypass the earth. If your engine now cranks over with the jump lead in place you need to find the broken earth strap and replace it. If these simple checks don't work, someone will be along with Td5 experience

I took my 110 (19J currently fitted) on a round trip from Yeovil to Staffordshire to collect @ianmayco68 200Tdi engine and gewrbox. On the way up I was keeping EGT below 700'C by not pushing it too hard up long hills on the motorway. Coming home I was feeling brave and seeing as I had a replacement engine in the back I thought I'd go for it and see what EGT I could get if I pushed it. (for academic purposes). I managed to go just over 800'C and the coolant temp went to 92'C. When the 19J is out I shall pull the head off and have a look to see what that sort of temperature has done to the piston crowns. The turbo seems fine.

It's good to have a break if things aren't as fun as they should be. I got bogged down in my rewire project and it took 3 times longer than expected which causes frustration.

This is shocking. I would say this is good evidence that one of the many reasons some pattern parts are cheap is the lack of quality control. I'm amazed that was ever put in a box and sent out the door.

It's great help though to have this set of data as a comparison. Numbers are always better than an on/off light. Personally I don't see an issue with using 15W40 mineral oil. Some people will use semi synthetic. It's always good practice to regularly change the oil, even for occasional low mileage use.

@western Did you do anything with the oil pump on your rebuild? I see Turners sell a rebuild kit. I'm getting @ianmayco68 200tdi engine at the weekend and I'm revisiting this epic rebuild thread as I will be using the opportunity of the engine being out of the vehicle to take the head and ladder frame off to inspect internal parts before I fit it into my 110.

This is what I did on my rewiring project. I also have full access to the loom if I need it at any point.

You make a very good point. Firstly, I have to admit that I read Ian's custom dash thread and realised the if I had a go it would not look anywhere near as good so I opted for the Mud console. I might have a go at a whole dash one day as a project at my leisure. Secondly, you are absolutely right. After 2 or 3 short trips I came to the same conclusion as you have described. I switched the guages round so in the main binnacle I have coolant temperature, EGT and a clock.

I think you are right about it being a combination of aerodynamic and road noise. At speeds upto 60 mph my 110 feels rugged and happy to sit at the speed all day. At 70mph it starts to feel a bit flimsey like something is going to fall off (all in my head I'm sure) and not happy as if I'm forcing it to do something it really doesn't want to do. My EGT guage starts to climb from 500 to 750+ as well on the 19J which I think isn't sustainable if I want the engine to last the trip home. I think this is what went wrong in 2019 when I blew a turbo and melted the (cheap) pistons. To be fair it did make it home in that state.

Yes it is and I share your sentiments about it. I always warn against this stuff, dangers of it can't be overstated as it is seemingly such a common household item packaged in a familiar brand with the adverts we've all seen on TV. Recently we've read cautionary tales on this forum from those who have required medical intervention because of incidents whilst working on their vehicles (luckily are still here to tell the tale). I'm not particularly squeamish but I don't cope well with hearing about eye injuries! If anyone does insist on using things containing sodium hydroxide, for God's sake please wear proper eye protection, thick gloves and keep anything containing sodium hydroxide off aluminium parts. Coming back to the OP's question (rant over), would very careful use of a fine grade sand paper shift it?

Have you got the circuit diagrams? The correct fuse should be located in the fuse box in the cab under the dash in front of the transfer box gear knob

I quite agree. That 10 mph lower makes all the difference. My 110 seems fine to cruise at 60. Pushing it to 70 feels frantic, not relaxed at all.

I do remember, but I wasn't sure if it was still in pieces or rebuilt and back in service. It was comment about being able to listen to music whilst driving that made me ask