Landy-Novice

and if so, corrct oil grade used? ideally 10-40semi. is engine high milage/tired?

assuming your running 235's? http://www.camskill.co.uk/m64b0s234p132234/BF_Goodrich_Tyres_SUV_4x4_BF_Goodrich_ATKO2_All_Terrain_TA_BF_Goodrich_AT_KO2_-_235_85_R16_LT_120S_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_F_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_2_Noise%3A_74dB

lloks like britpart hd springs and the foam shocks. you need to get under it with a pry bar and give every bush a good wiggle/prod/poke/jiggle to see if any have play. then i would be checking wheel bearings/swivel bearings including all track rods ends and even steering uj's. panhard rod bushes are a faviorite for causes 'wondering' issues. looking at the pictures, would probably be well worth returning to standard height, no need for that lift with such small tyres. hth

as above, new improved design with a a new sidewall, something like 20% stronger, fact there cheaper seems a win win.

last i heard, hes left the 4x4 scene and moved on to track cars? hence why im guessing he hasnt been to this site in 8 months.

i cant find thread either but found this, narrows it down to 2. 7/16 of m12x1. half nuts cheap n ebay. 7/16th half nut LR prt numbeer is NT607041L if it is that one.

we use universal turbos. not cheap but you get what you pay for.. top notch products.

there wont be any markings. front prop should be phased by 2 teeth. each tooth is 22.5degrees iirc. when you say they feel both fine, smooth and arnt notchy. and no play in either uj or slip joint?

may sound daft. but there are a couple of prop tool versions. one is good, the other is beyond usless.. this one is usless. i just threw it in the bin. this on is best design. cant remeber what seller but it was a laser one. works great, i find best if jack up axle high to help give prop more angle to make it easier, fits best at about 11 to 1ish oclock i brought the 1/2 one which was less than ideal, 3/8 next time.

double bonus! hahaha! :lol:

but the most important question here. has his lesson been taught...?

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=23597

ian has been for many moons i think, he is only propper solution for the ecu/wiring that ive come across. he also deals with the like on nene overland for there conversions on the tdv6, wiring/ecu solution from him is a snip at £8000-£10,000...

abit late but if you havnt already, well worth replacing core plug behind the exhaust manifold. they rot out and are a pitfa to change otherwise.

would this help give a size reference of what they should look like? you can compare to see if yours have a seized sleeve against the pics in the link? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=24774 of perhaps you have ordered worng item? i know later arms are wider at axle end, maybe LR also changed chassis end??

i was under the impression that diesels dont have cats but are fitted with DOC's? DPF's been fitted way before euro5 same with the scr's (adblue, urea? basically strong tiddle) with the like of peugoet that been using them for years. but dpf's became compulsory due to solid matter killing people in fairly high numbers... around 7000 a year in uk estimated just for diesels.

i can answer you above question. shiny irresistible things and all that.. for 7-19mm set will set you back around £400+vat..

well worth checking propshaft support bearings. (assuming its still fitted! ) as these are prone for failing causing banging noise when accelerating.

looks similar focus setup. iirc the 2 bolts also hold arb bushes and there captive. having a long thin podger bar makes fitting the a damn sight easier to alight bush and arb bracket as the same time whist putting other bolt it. as with alignment. there not, many cars dont have camber alignment but if they do, is usually on the bottom of the strut. as with the price. that is probably 1.5hr labour and a pair of compete arms from a reputable manufacture. rather than the micky mouse s**te you find on ebay. when fitting new ones, a good dose of wd40 etc always helps.

got a link to this evo head? i thourth amc was only after market supplier of cylinders heads for 300tdi's. no that helpful but our parts factor supplies us with victor reinz headsets and headbolts all the time, maybe try a local parts factors to see if they have any instock or can order in for you?? BGA are also a good quality for gaskets etc and have a full online catalog with many products listed for LR's.

admittedly mines a 200 and run 1.2/1.3bar real boost for 6+mnths and fine so far. i would probably put money on it that the missing dowel would be the cause of the head gasket failures as with out them head will 'float' about. i would use a composite gasket rather than mls and deffo 3 hole use. personally i would worry about the warped head, its very minor. ive used sealant on headgassket on a very warped block (4d56) with composite HG with success.

what symptoms have you got, have any pictures of the failed head gasket? i take it head dowels are present and block isnt warped?

looks pretty good! what do you think final cost is?

think it should have a letter stamped on the the top of the locking key. this is the code.

to be fair, i have a britpart centre striaght thru in poverty grade SS. been fitted for an entire 3 moths and it hasnt rotted out or fallen off.. ..yet :hysterical: