Anderzander Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 Great news ! Can’t wait 😊 Its come together well. I always aim for a factory look, and so think that’s what you’re going to have here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 17, 2020 Author Share Posted July 17, 2020 I find that if you work at it being really good, it looks right almost as a by-product. And management have given clearance for a morning on this tomorrow. I'll start early. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 I’d agree with that. I also think that a lot of time put into thinking about it can yield sudden inspiration for how to do it more elegantly. That’s very satisfying. I’m also capable of making a total pigs ear of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 17, 2020 Author Share Posted July 17, 2020 All of that resonates. I find that I need a nights sleep to come up with the answer. Which is why I try so many excrement ideas, they act as manure for the good ideas. And the foul ups are good for learning, and scrap. Except spray painting. I always get that wrong. Bad kit, I suspect. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deep Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 12 hours ago, Landrover17H said: I've said before, you're lucky to have a 17H. Reckon if most want such things, they're going to have to cobble one together using TDi cranks and 5MB 2.25 lumps. Until you came along, I was reckoning to have the best incarnation, thus more than happy to work in datum. If I'm not mistaken, the TDi has a timing belt and the 2.5 petrol has a timing chain. Does that affect the "cobbling" at all or is it yet another case of Land Rover (of old) being very benevolent to the tinkerer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 I think the crank shaft is common to many engines. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 My cunning plan to slip the half moon key through the pulley hole failed, the key was too tall. Timing cover off again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 Which was fine, as I'd forgotten to zinc paint the pulley. So, whilst that was drying I fitted other stuff, like sensors, senders, spigots and sling eyes. PTFE tape features. And making things fit. I might have to redo some things if they leak. The nice painted front sling eye was from something else, but I found the right one in the pile of engine bits, sprayed it and we are ready for engine stand removal in a few minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 PTFE Tape? Loctite do pritt-stik style white thread sealant inna stick, it's great. I have a full set of sticks - coppaslip, threadlock, thread sealant and flange sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 (edited) 14 hours ago, deep said: If I'm not mistaken, the TDi has a timing belt and the 2.5 petrol has a timing chain. Does that affect the "cobbling" at all or is it yet another case of Land Rover (of old) being very benevolent to the tinkerer? To clarify: All LR 5MB 2.5 engines, petrol or diesel 17H 2.5NA, 200TDi, etc share the same crank, and because most 17H went scrapped in the 200TDi craze, a 17H is a rare beast, money might not be the problem. You could be forced to cobble your own 17H. Whereas, hard to find, but still obtainable is a 2.25 5MB Petrol. These were found in early coilers. I know for fact, these will take cranks from 'big brother' 2.5 lumps. In this context Belt or chain, makes no difference. 2.25 5MB Petrol lumps were first found in the last of the S3. Never done this, careful: this may be heresay.... these are reputed to also take a 2.5 crank. This route is still not cheap, 17H pistons and rods are easy to find, and likely less than you'd pay for a tired 17H which needs new pistons anyway. Faced with a bill for new pistons, you could give ACR a call, and go to 2.8. That won't be cheap either, but this route never was. Do that, 2.8 with EFi and you'll take the crown from us all. Oh yes, and the cam across LR 5MB lumps is the same too. Because the capacity is increased by long-stroking, this over the 3MB 2.25, alters the way power is delivered. It's this, along with cam and better head/carb in combination which moves torque lower. A decent 2.5 crank should be an easy find. Converting a 2.5 5MB TDi to petrol? I hear it can be done, better than me knows. Possible or not, likely needs 17H parts, so doesn't sound cost-viable. Your mileage may vary. None of the above applies to 3MB 4-pots. The problem is, the source for 2.5 lumps, early coilers are desirable in their own right. Dare I say, pre 86, I'd own one... and I'm straight😀 Edited July 18, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: PTFE Tape? Loctite do pritt-stik style white thread sealant inna stick, it's great. I have a full set of sticks - coppaslip, threadlock, thread sealant and flange sealant. I have PTFE tape. And none of those other things. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 And a clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 I decided to use the silicone goo instead of a gasket, I'll see if it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 Pressing the seal in was easy, once I realised that an old pulley was the right size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 I didn't think paint would work for the silicone, so off it came. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 First time using one of these seals, with the seal guide. It worked really well. I used the bolts to tighten the housing on, so it was gentle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 Then an old pinion came into play: I need to do a thorough tidy up now. I might have a go at fitting the engine tomorrow; I've a helper with a vested interest coming to visit. He wants a new sill in his focus.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 (edited) Sorry to be the bearer of bad news Gazzar, but you've put your rear crank seal in the wrong way round. Regards, Diff. Edited July 18, 2020 by Diff Typo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerboa Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 21 minutes ago, Diff said: Sorry to be the bearer of bad news Gazzar, but you've put your rear crank seal in the wrong way round. Regards, Diff. Yeah, I think Diff is right : / That said, I'm thinking about how I've done mine now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 Yes, I think so too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 Bugger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 You're right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 (edited) I didn't spot it, thankfully, others did. I can't guess how much extra faff it is to take pix and upload to a thread every time you as much as breathe. Yet what goes round, comes round. I promise, I don't get things right all the time either, the lesson here is definitely, others looking over your shoulder pays. Well done to those sharper than me. And heaven be praised, the clutch is green. Edited July 18, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 2 hours ago, Diff said: Sorry to be the bearer of bad news Gazzar, but you've put your rear crank seal in the wrong way round. Regards, Diff. Diff, thank you, well done for spotting and flagging this. I appreciate it. G 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 Now corrected. No photos, I was too annoyed. It all came apart easily enough, though the silicone was a pain to clean up. I did note the excess silicone was encroaching on the space between the crank and the block, so I put a much lighter bead on this time. The seal tool works in reverse just as well. Much quicker to do this job when you have all the tools lined up and know the torque values. And, I didn't lose anything. The workshop is a mess, I locked the door and walked away when it was done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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