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2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?


Gazzar

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4 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

A second hand from a mini?

Idle speculation at this point.

Hmm, well, it is certainly a well-worn route. However, things ave changes in the last 20 years since the super-mini came out, and there are more efficient systems out there. The Nissan Note 1.2 supercharged looked a good option for a 127% A-series, when I was thinking about similar things, though never got further than investigation.

Honestly, I'd love to see you turbo it, probably way cheaper.

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2 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

I also tried to tighten the belhousing to box bolts, but I think they were tight enough.IMG_20200720_111325.thumb.jpg.278110ae75af1c231b1911c563bf1809.jpg

 

New ww socket now on order. I've had that one nearly 30 years. Cheap set from Argos.

Philistine. 

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3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Hmm, well, it is certainly a well-worn route. However, things ave changes in the last 20 years since the super-mini came out, and there are more efficient systems out there. The Nissan Note 1.2 supercharged looked a good option for a 127% A-series, when I was thinking about similar things, though never got further than investigation.

Honestly, I'd love to see you turbo it, probably way cheaper.

I'll drive it for a while first. The thing that kills the idea is the retention of the oil bath filter.

And I like the oil bath filter.

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That went well. Really easy. Spending the time getting everything aligned paid off, it just slipped in.

I can't up load photos for some reason, cert expired?

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4 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

This looks really rather splendid :)

Thank you, I'm quite pleased. I wonder how many times I'll have to take it out before I get it right......

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It's a focus 04, estate. Belongs to eldest, who is an impoverished student, and the car is worth less than his second hand phone.

It's in good shape, lots of cavity wax, except on the off-side sill. So up-side-down welding, patching, phosphoric acid, zinc, and bilt Hamber, everywhere. 

Brilliant engineering, ford use carpet in the wheel arches, to stop the noise of water against the body. Guaranteed to rust after 10 years, new ford time!

It's not a project, but we keep finding more little holes. Back on the road by Friday.

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12 hours ago, Snagger said:

Grrr! Installation!   “Install” is a verb that uneducated US tv presenters have mangled into an incorrect noun. 🤮

It’s looking great.   Fitting it will be a big mile stone.

I'm glad you mentioned that.  It annoys me greatly when people play around with basic grammar, in a misguided attempt to be "cool" or trendy.  It's not just the Americans.  Try living in New Zealand, where anything that has roots in history or tradition is considered wrong for that very reason.  Sigh.

I agree about the installation.  It does look very good and must be very satisfying.

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As with my words on one long bolt for the alternator, once 'installed', access gets clunky.   Stock M10 nuts won't grant much clearance on a series bell-housing to get sockets in. Find some M10 flange nuts. AF,  dimension is smaller. Not expensive, and will save a lot of pain when you do the first clutch change etc. Did mine too long ago to be more exact,  recall sourced 15mm spanner size M10 for awkward bits. You'll figure it.

Edited by Landrover17H
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Don't get me started on 'cool' Youtuber-speak. The plague of corporate-speak... 'guys', 'like', and now 'sketchy'? As for 'truck'. I've already said. I'm sorry, I can't grasp why these people want to be American?

Owned with a penchant for Jacomo's range of gay lumberjack-shirts,  I concede, Japanese pick-ups with big-bore heated towel-rails are 'trucks'. As would be railway rolling-stock. See,  I've already lost, hence I'm not sure why I continue to whinge and rant?

Now, THIS  ↓ ↓ ↓ ↓ is a 'truck'.

It’ll be nicer for them now it’s all out in the open.

Truck.png

Edited by Landrover17H
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Oh yes, engine mounts, and gearbox mounts. Often sold under the same part number, they shouldn't be. Not that you'll have much issue if they're wrong, the 17H is very smooth anyway. I'm a pedant for noise, if you're like-minded keep them distinct. Being Milly' likely you have one, if you've not got a tie-rod on your gearbox, fit one. Your ACR exhaust is a pricey item, something you don't want to subject undue torque on, and it's tight near the spring -hanger. Make sure nuts are outward on spring-hanger, else things are made ever tighter. Bolt-end will do its best to punch thru' the ACR collector. You'll see what I mean when you trial-fit. Although I speak of a 109, maybe a LWT differs? If I'm right, your spring-hanger bolt needs switching?

Gearbox TieRod 06-02-20 11.png

Bolt.png

Edited by Landrover17H
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I'm using TDI mounts and gearbox tie rod ( ex mod).

Front springs aren't tightened, I was waiting for the weight of the engine first.

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Gearbox tie-rod = Good. It's something until recently I wasn't aware existed. Can't speak for TDi mounts, would think they're too hard. Dependent on fuel-type, LR's own part numbers stretch to 4 types, which is likely irrelevant. Simply because what you'll truly get today comes down to dumb-luck. You'll suck-and-see, may as well be what you have in there now, as anything. If you're aware of the issues...

Edited by Landrover17H
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2 hours ago, Landrover17H said:

As with my words on one long bolt for the alternator, once 'installed', access gets clunky.   Stock M10 nuts won't grant much clearance on a series bell-housing to get sockets in. Find some M10 flange nuts. AF,  dimension is smaller. Not expensive, and will save a lot of pain when you do the first clutch change etc. Did mine too long ago to be more exact,  recall sourced 15mm spanner size M10 for awkward bits. You'll figure it.

That's really good advice. I've also noticed a few other things that are a sod to access, the nut for the engine mount, for example. And the steering relay mount bolts need reversing.

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I have tried to persuade a lot of people to fit those longitudinal tie rods to Series vehicles for the last fifteen years or so.  Not only do they prevent the mounting rubbers from being sheared and the radiator from being contacted by the fan, which I assume to be their main purpose, but they make the standard Series hand brake hugely effective, rendering all other modifications to improve it unnecessary.  It’s one of those dull and relatively invisible mods that transforms an element of the vehicle’s operation.

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