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4 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

Please please treat it with respect, these things can bite, no loose clothing cuffs etc

At one of the Model Engineering shows, years ago, we saw a guy with a perfect imprint of a chuck-key in his forehead!  It had obviously happened years before - but it was so obviously a chuck key!

That left a lasting impression on me (and him too 😂).  I've since bought chuck keys with a spring on the square drive so they spring out of the chuck - just in case!

image.png.3f1be972a5588684e943056266bfd912.png

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Nice lathe you have there, is t the WM180? I got its bigger sister, quite useful for smallish work you might need. Remember, you will need tooling, especially if you buy a mill so buget for it. I find the mill equally useful, won't be without it.

That spring on the chuck key was the first thing I got rid of, a nuisance if you ask me, same with the chuck guards, you will struggle or not be able to work at all with them on. Just be careful and use proper ppe and common sense. Use safety glasses but not gloves for example. Roll up your sleeves and remove rings and watches, etc.

 

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37 minutes ago, simonr said:

At one of the Model Engineering shows, years ago, we saw a guy with a perfect imprint of a chuck-key in his forehead!  It had obviously happened years before - but it was so obviously a chuck key!

That left a lasting impression on me (and him too 😂).  I've since bought chuck keys with a spring on the square drive so they spring out of the chuck - just in case!

image.png.3f1be972a5588684e943056266bfd912.png

A big help with the chuck key remembering is having an interlocked guard that won’t go down with a chuck key in.

I’ve had one hit me in the past and I was lucky…. It was at the top of my leg about very close to the old Crown Jewels :lol: 

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5 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Fantastic

Please please treat it with respect, these things can bite, no loose clothing cuffs etc, I know I'm stating the obvious, but you can never get complacent

There is a horrific video of a guy getting shredded by his lathe, not for those with weak stomachs, it's contents have made an impression on me, I am much more aware and respectful of my lathe since seeing it

That said have fun it really opens up fabrication

Regards Stephen


Thanks for the reminder.

I know it’s a different tool - but someone I knew had an accident with a grinder where it cut across his face - to a horrible depth, just missing his eye. It turned my stomach- horrible to look at, even remembering it turns my stomach. 

I will always be respectful of a grinder … and I’ll extend that the lathe too. 

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4 hours ago, simonr said:

image.png.3f1be972a5588684e943056266bfd912.png

Ooo - not seen one of those before….

4 hours ago, muzaz said:

Nice lathe you have there, is t the WM180? I got its bigger sister, quite useful for smallish work you might need. Remember, you will need tooling, especially if you buy a mill so buget for it. I find the mill equally useful, won't be without it.

That spring on the chuck key was the first thing I got rid of, a nuisance if you ask me, same with the chuck guards, you will struggle or not be able to work at all with them on. Just be careful and use proper ppe and common sense. Use safety glasses but not gloves for example. Roll up your sleeves and remove rings and watches, etc.

 

More good advice thank you ! 

It’s a 240 this one - I haven’t gone through the boxes yet . I’ve seen there is a 3 and a 4 jaw chuck, I think 2 or 3 dial gauges .. and I think a load of cutters.  
 

I’ll post up when I get to it.

 

One thing I need to address is that the previous owner removed the kill switch - it’s just sitting loose on the top. No idea why. 
 

I’ve had a look inside - I can see the wiring, but I’m not sure how it’s meant to go.  I did wonder wether I could get a foot operated on and wire it to that instead. Any thought or advice on that is welcome. 

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15 hours ago, simonr said:

I've since bought chuck keys with a spring on the square drive so they spring out of the chuck - just in case!

On my "to-do" list is to 3D print a little holder for the chuck key that retains a microswitch, looped into the lathe's safety cutoffs so it won't even start unless the chuck key is sat in its holder.

The Boxford has microswitches on a few parts in a single loop that interrupts the NVR start/stop switch, it's a good system.

@Anderzander if yours has a standard NVR start/stop then you can wire in one or more stop switches in series, I wired an extra one at knee height so in my usual position it's a small movement to stop the lathe with no hands required.

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20 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

On my "to-do" list is to 3D print a little holder for the chuck key that retains a microswitch, looped into the lathe's safety cutoffs so it won't even start unless the chuck key is sat in its holder.

That's a clever idea!

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In my distant youth I was a student mining engineer at a local colliery, in the big machine shop there was a (redundant by then) lath used for fettling coal wagon wheels, directly opposite at a height of 30ft or so was a 4 jaw chuck key embedded in the breeze blocks handle end first.  The machinist supervisor remembered its escape bid from when he was an apprentice.

 

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On 8/17/2023 at 9:15 AM, FridgeFreezer said:

 

@Anderzander if yours has a standard NVR start/stop then you can wire in one or more stop switches in series, I wired an extra one at knee height so in my usual position it's a small movement to stop the lathe with no hands required.

Any switches that you’d recommend?  I’m thinking this is an application not to buy a cheap one from china .. 

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8 hours ago, Anderzander said:

Any switches that you’d recommend?  I’m thinking this is an application not to buy a cheap one from china .. 

Something along these lines should be fine, RS Components or similar will have various sizes and configurations.

I'd personally go with a lever switch as it gives a bit more scope for slight misalignment/bad seating of the chuck key and will still switch as opposed to a button style switch.

shopping.webp.faea18d867d396cc8e5add23fd50b8ca.webp

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On 8/19/2023 at 10:10 PM, Anderzander said:

Any switches that you’d recommend?  I’m thinking this is an application not to buy a cheap one from china .. 

Pretty much what Johnnok said - switches made by grown-ups sold by the likes of RS, Farnell, etc. ideally from manufacturers like Omron.

I'd pick whatever looks like it would fit the job in terms of lever/roller/plunger & activation force etc.

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Just as an aside, can I respectfully recommend before using the lathe seriously you align it; there's plenty on youtube about doing  it (and other related stuff), eg Blondihacks. I don't think it has to be level, lathes are on ships after all, but a slight twist in the bed will ruin your work.

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I’ve much to learn !!  So thanks for the suggestions. At this point I don’t even know how to true something up in the chuck.

I’ve ordered something to repair the factory emergency stop and I’m going to look for some sort of NVR switch I can put in the external mains circuit - and do as was suggested - mounted so I can hit it with my knee. 

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Also, if I might make so bold as to suggest, if you possibly can, fit an indicator light (small neon for example) to your compressor so it lights when 'live'. It is easy to forget  to turn off the compressor before leaving the workshop if it is up to pressure and has therefore been silent for a while (if there are absolutely no leaks it probably doesn't matter, but if there is the slightest  it'll fire up thunderously in the middle of the night). You can glance at it and check it's off with a light.  And please drain it frequently or better, get an auto-drain. Both of these suggestions a result of experience!  

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On 8/24/2023 at 3:55 PM, steve200TDi said:

Oh yes, got to love a bit of inheritance machining!

 

Steve

You can tell quite a bit by the utube channels someone watches! There seems to be great commonality among Land Rover enthusiasts.

inheritance machining is excellent.

I also like cutting edge engineering 

 

 

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3 hours ago, fmmv said:

Also, if I might make so bold as to suggest, if you possibly can, fit an indicator light (small neon for example) to your compressor so it lights when 'live'. It is easy to forget  to turn off the compressor before leaving the workshop if it is up to pressure and has therefore been silent for a while (if there are absolutely no leaks it probably doesn't matter, but if there is the slightest  it'll fire up thunderously in the middle of the night). You can glance at it and check it's off with a light.  And please drain it frequently or better, get an auto-drain. Both of these suggestions a result of experience!  

yep had to get up a few times before when i'd forgot to turn the shed one off

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5 hours ago, fmmv said:

Also, if I might make so bold as to suggest, if you possibly can, fit an indicator light (small neon for example) to your compressor so it lights when 'live'. It is easy to forget  to turn off the compressor before leaving the workshop if it is up to pressure and has therefore been silent for a while (if there are absolutely no leaks it probably doesn't matter, but if there is the slightest  it'll fire up thunderously in the middle of the night). You can glance at it and check it's off with a light.  And please drain it frequently or better, get an auto-drain. Both of these suggestions a result of experience!  

That indicator light is a good idea if its obvious, my answer because I have the compressor in a corner as far from me as possible (for clean air) was to run a 15amp extension lead to a plug next to the door and wire a switch so when I turn the lights on and off compressor is part of  the routine

If your interested a couple of extra channels "Make it Kustom" very good with teaching sheetmetal and "Mark Presling" retired teacher who does shed stuff both put out regular content 

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On 8/19/2023 at 4:59 PM, JeffR said:

In my distant youth I was a student mining engineer at a local colliery, in the big machine shop there was a (redundant by then) lath used for fettling coal wagon wheels, directly opposite at a height of 30ft or so was a 4 jaw chuck key embedded in the breeze blocks handle end first.  The machinist supervisor remembered its escape bid from when he was an apprentice.

 

When I was at school, (quite some time ago now!) we had wood work lathes which we used semi supervised, I expect this is not done much any more for HSE reason etc. We were all given a very strict talk about what to do and not do with threats of dire punishment or possible removal of body parts if we didn't follow the rules. Part of this was looking at a chisel embedded in the roof beam above the lathe as a demonstration of what could happen and how fast and hard the chisel could fly off, we were all given an opportunity to try and pull the chisel out of the wood which no body managed. At the time it seemed very real, now I wonder how the chisel got there and suspect it was hammered in and possible even secured in place out of sight from the top of the beam.

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On 8/24/2023 at 8:16 PM, Anderzander said:

 At this point I don’t even know how to true something up in the chuck.

 

You generally don't need to with a 3 jaw chuck especially if the part your machining can be done in one operation however, if your needing a high degree of accuracy and the part needs to come out to machine the other end then you need to use a four jaw chuck and dial it in with a dti

4 jaw takes longer to set up but if you make it your go to, its surprising how quick you can do it with a bit of practice, anything critical I do in the 4 jaw 

You have followed my mog thread so you will know shape is not an issue, you will only be limited by what your chucks can physically hold, immense satisfaction on a completed part and a few months down the line you will wonder how you managed without one

Have fun regards Stephen 

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