Eightpot Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, I don't know if you have a pressure guage or are relying on a blinking oil pressure warning lamp? My old safari truck in africa started flashing the oil pressure warning lamp very convincingly for a while which had me thinking the worst - turned out to be a bad sender thankfully - always nice when its the cheap fix 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 16 minutes ago, Eightpot said: Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, I don't know if you have a pressure guage or are relying on a blinking oil pressure warning lamp? My old safari truck in africa started flashing the oil pressure warning lamp very convincingly for a while which had me thinking the worst - turned out to be a bad sender thankfully - always nice when its the cheap fix 🙂 Also had this with a partially blocked oil filter. Changed oil and filter and it went away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 I've got a set of 200tdi cam bearings here.  The great land rover curu, Pete Broom advised me that it is possible, in many cases, to simply reafix either the origionals, if not too mullered. or replacements, without resorting to the utter pita that line boring is  Mike, I would offer you a spare engine, but it has the same problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 3 hours ago, cackshifter said: So going for expediency, if the cam bearing has moved, is it possible to just put it back loctited, IE no need for new bearings and reaming. Yes I know it would be a dirty fix, but if the rest is ok then that gives a good engine. Exactly what I was thinking. If it has just moved, and you caught the problem in time, knock it out, put some bearing retaining (green) loctite on there, pop it back in and run it. Costs you a set of gaskets and some Loctite you can probably pinch from work I mean, it's already broken, you're not going to make it worse. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted August 30, 2022 Author Share Posted August 30, 2022 1 hour ago, L19MUD said: Also had this with a partially blocked oil filter. Changed oil and filter and it went away Changing the oil/filter made no difference hence I pulled the engine out. 1 hour ago, Eightpot said: Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, I don't know if you have a pressure guage or are relying on a blinking oil pressure warning lamp? My old safari truck in africa started flashing the oil pressure warning lamp very convincingly for a while which had me thinking the worst - turned out to be a bad sender thankfully - always nice when its the cheap fix 🙂 Whilst I love your optimism I'm really not that lucky. I didn't check it with a guage but I'm fairly confident in the diagnosis as the exact same symptoms happened with our 110 shortly after the cam snapped. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 I echo the view of stripping the engine you took out to find the cause of the low oil pressure. It will cost you nothing to strip it down and then you will know what you are dealing with. It will either be financially none viable for you at the moment to repair or you might be pleasantly surprised. You won't know for sure until you have investigated. I have a box full of 200Tdi stuff in my garage, if I have anything you need, I'll gladly send it to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted August 30, 2022 Author Share Posted August 30, 2022 Thank you gents for the reality check, I will be collecting the other engine soon and will see what I find. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 I've never had cause to look at how expensive or not line boring is but I'd seriously give Banda a ring to ask the question, might just turn out to be possible to do it right for sensible money... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 £100 seems about the going rate, plus the full dismantle and remantle and the extra gaskets/seals etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 I've got a set of 200tdi cam bearings here.  The great land rover curu, Pete Broom advised me that it is possible, in many cases, to simply reafix either the origionals, if not too mullered. or replacements, without resorting to the utter pita that line boring is  Mike, I would offer you a spare engine, but it has the same problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 The problem with line boring isn't the cost, it's the need for a bare block. Fine if you have all the time in the world to strip the lump, and the parts you will need - for example all the shells (becuase why would you strip it and not replace?), then even more time to re-build it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 38 minutes ago, Nonimouse said: The problem with line boring isn't the cost, it's the need for a bare block. Fine if you have all the time in the world to strip the lump If Mike gets his spare lump up on the bench he does (technically) have the time to do it, as long as the sickly engine in his daily soldiers on for a while longer. Also, Banda have done machining for me before with a non-stripped block, so it may also be possible to get it done without the full stripdown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 Turner Engineering sell a later type of cam brushes that have smaller oil holes to give correct lubrication without losing so much pressure.  They say that there is no need for reaming or line boring.  I can’t remember their price, but it was less than a couple of rounds down the pub… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 15 minutes ago, Snagger said: Turner Engineering sell a later type of cam brushes that have smaller oil holes to give correct lubrication without losing so much pressure.  They say that there is no need for reaming or line boring.  I can’t remember their price, but it was less than a couple of rounds down the pub… Those are the ones I have - yet to fit, on my spare engine, due to lack of time 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 I intend some for mine, if I don’t just get a short engine from them when I pull the pistons and try to find a cause for the  persistent oil burning.  First thing will be the turbo oil drain hose, though - the head has been rebuilt twice, the turbo rebuilt and then replaced, and the block rebored with +20 pistons, which were then removed at about 10k and re-ringed, all to absolutely no effect. 🤬. The only job which was ignored when I rebuilt that engine from scratch was the cam bushes, because the machinists said they were good.  Now I wish I had done them as the oil pressure is a tad low on warm idle (15psi instead of 25, which seems typical of a Tdi but Ralph got the bookfigures). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 I wouldn't worry about 15psi. Oil tyope and manufacturer, gauge reading and oil condition all make the figure vary A knowledgeable engine chap once told me that if you allow 10psi per 1k RPM, that will do nicely. More is just a bonus. I can lower my oil PSI by simply running Smith and Allen semi synth 10w40, rather than Shell Rimula 15W40 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 7 hours ago, Nonimouse said: I can lower my oil PSI by simply running Smith and Allen semi synth 10w40, rather than Shell Rimula 15W40 ...which is what you might expect if your oil is cooler than 100 deg C. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted August 31, 2022 Author Share Posted August 31, 2022 Ok so I've established I'm stripping the other engine as soon as I can. However I need to prolong the one in there for now. Prior to the head gasket going it ran fine but smoked a little. Since replacing it I came back from Scotland fine, but it's now getting a bit warm at random occasion. It seems to take a long time to warm up but once it does it settles just above half way (it was just below half way before). However it seems to increase when in traffic or under load but once moving again it comes down a bit. It does use a bit of water but I'm not sure if this is being blown out or going into the bores again. The cooling system doesn't seem to have excessive pressure but is elivated due to running hot. I've replaced the thermostat. It almost feels like the impeller has come off the water pump, but that was new when we fitted this engine. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 As you replaced the thermostat, perhaps that is where the extra running temp is coming from? Or a disturbed earth point? Then all you have to do is find the tiny leak. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted August 31, 2022 Author Share Posted August 31, 2022 I replaced the thermostat in an effort to reduce the running temp, but it's made no difference. I know the guage is fairly accurate as the electric fan keeps coming on which it didn't before so it's definitely running warmer. It is possible the thermostat housing is leaking as the new gasket didn't seal. I ended up reusing the original gasket however I'm fairly sure it's good. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 1, 2022 Share Posted September 1, 2022 What condition are the 4 or 5 lower rows of fins on the engine side of radiator in My 200tdi a few years ago raised its temp when on long climbs on M5 & hills, the 4 botton rows of rad fins had rumbled to dust, a new radiator cured that problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 1, 2022 Share Posted September 1, 2022 7 hours ago, miketomcat said: Ok so I've established I'm stripping the other engine as soon as I can. However I need to prolong the one in there for now. Prior to the head gasket going it ran fine but smoked a little. Since replacing it I came back from Scotland fine, but it's now getting a bit warm at random occasion. It seems to take a long time to warm up but once it does it settles just above half way (it was just below half way before). However it seems to increase when in traffic or under load but once moving again it comes down a bit. It does use a bit of water but I'm not sure if this is being blown out or going into the bores again. The cooling system doesn't seem to have excessive pressure but is elivated due to running hot. I've replaced the thermostat. It almost feels like the impeller has come off the water pump, but that was new when we fitted this engine. Mike I have a new 200tdi waterpump in my box of bits I'd you want it to try swapping it over to see if that helps you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 1, 2022 Author Share Posted September 1, 2022 I fitted a new Ali radiator at the same time as this engine. Thanks @monkie I should have a water pump here, failing that I can rob the one off the other engine. It's typical I won't risk using the ibex for towing at the moment so I've got a fair bit to do, looks like the 110's getting a work out. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted September 1, 2022 Share Posted September 1, 2022 1 hour ago, miketomcat said: I fitted a new Ali radiator at the same time as this engine Wasn't that one of those Chinese ebay ones? Maybe it's just rubbish... Maybe it's just restricting flow too much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 1, 2022 Share Posted September 1, 2022 Thermostats along with many other parts are rubbish these days - I no longer use anything but waxstat in the workshop and even then they can be faulty out of the box. Think I went through four new stats before getting a good one in my own 200tdi.   1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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