2010 2.4 Landy 90 has power loss and I don't know what's causing it

[Yannch]

Hello,

I'm at a loss, for a year now I have been trying to fix my 90, but after every fix it happened sooner and sooner. It's weird.

First time it happened I was driving on the highway for about 2 hours at roughly 120km/h, then suddenly the rpms go down even though Im fully pressing the gas pedal. No overheating, temperature gauge is in the middle as usual, no smell no steam. Ok then, It somewhat lets me stay around 80 km/h, barely though and no check engine light. I pull in to stop and restart the car, its fine and lets me drive completely normally home for the rest of the 3h drive.

2nd time about a month and a half later its again on the highway same as the first time, but I only was on the road for an hour. Same thing, restart the engine and its fine. This time I go to the garage and he figures the ECU is broken, I get a new one.

About a month later, again on the highway 20mins in it happens, pull in restart car continue. but 10 mins later it happens again and 20 mins later again. After 3 or 4 times restarting it's fine again. I carry on.

A month or so later I install a racechip to have a little bit more power and less fuel consumption. Quick and easy.

It happens again, now sometimes on the normal 80km/h road. But its still far apart and after a restart its fine so I'm not super worried. I had to be driving for a while or at high speeds for it to happen.

About a month or so later, driving home on a 3h trip, it happens again at about 1 and a half hour on the highway. This time it doesn't stop. Every 5 min I have power loss. Check engine light is on for the first time. I make it home about 4h later to give it to the garage in the morning. The replace the turbo and some tubing. It was broken, and I was relieved, finally something that sorta made sense. The turbo got worse and worse, making the power loss more frequent till death. At this point the Racechip is off and I unplug it to never use it again.

I drive happily for about a month and a half for it to happen again, Power loss nonstop restarts don't help again. On the normal road this time after driving for about 45 mins. No check engine light. I give it to the shop for them to replace a sensor in the cat. I lost hope at this point, expecting it to happen again.

And there, 2 weeks later it happens again. 

I don't know what it is, the mechanic is also confused and it's an land rover garage only.

Here some key points:

-2010 2.4 defender 90

-220'000km now

-in good shape 

-Big wheels 275's

-nothing done to the motor except the Racechip for a couple months 

-USB Charger and a Pioneer touchscreen 

I did alot more to this car but I'm sure it has nothing to do with it, still just in case;

Lucari seats and cubby, Mud glovebox, Momo steering wheel, removed the rear seats, tinted windows, eezi awn roof rack and ladder, terrafirma snorkel, terrafirma suspension kit, bowler  bumper and side rails, etc bits and bobs.

I've had this car for over 2 years now and I'm exhausted, I wish for this to be over. I'd appreciate any suggestions...

[Daan]

Hi Yannch, and welcome to the forum.

I have heard of people with this engine having issues with the fuel filter housing drawing air in, giving similar problems as you describe. 

Daan

 

 

[toenden]

Hi Yannch, 

I am pretty sure, that this engine has a "dont overheat" programe in its ecu. If the ecu discovers that the engine is running hot, it will turn down power until normal temperature is regained. It does sound like you could initially be experiencing this sort of behavior. The instrument in the binnacle does not necessarily show the overheating issue. The thing that triggers me is, that you write that you run bigger tires and motorway cruising at 120km/h. In my experience It takes quite some energy to get a defender running like this and the engine could work a bit hard 🙂

BUT if I am right, you need to do some more serious investigation as to why the problem arrises at 80km/h now. Dodgy sensor or overheating issues?

/mads

[bishbosh]

I had similar symptoms on a VW golf many moons ago from a collapsing air intake hose. It only happened at speed with the engine trying to draw a lot of air and the hose had delaminated allowing it to constrict airflow. A bugger to spot because once stationary the hose looked normal!

[Nonimouse]

What fault codes did your garage spot?

Also, do you run a snorkel?

 

[Maverik]

I experienced something similar on a 2011 TDCi - Land Rover diagnosed it as a fault with the Turbo and replaced it, it fixed the problem.

[monkie]

I think the OP had the turbo and hoses renewed. 

[Yannch]

the only fault code that comes up is the maf sensor being broken, but it has been replaced 3 weeks ago. I don't 5hink Im overworking the engine with the wheels, I tend to listen to my car and stay around 2500-2800 rpm on the highway. My garagist says that the only thing he might think of is the wiring harnes to the maf sensor or maybe the fuel pump, but he says these are very unlikely and expensive, since the only fault code again is the maf sensor coming up as defective, even though it isn't.

[L19MUD]

MAF sensor fault is what you should be concentrating on. I would not do anything else until I have managed to clear that fault.

Can you clear the fault or is it permanent? If you can clear how does it reappear? Driving it or only after an incident like above

The MAF sensor has a huge impact on fueling 

[Nonimouse]

5 hours ago, Yannch said:

the only fault code that comes up is the maf sensor being broken, but it has been replaced 3 weeks ago. I don't 5hink Im overworking the engine with the wheels, I tend to listen to my car and stay around 2500-2800 rpm on the highway. My garagist says that the only thing he might think of is the wiring harnes to the maf sensor or maybe the fuel pump, but he says these are very unlikely and expensive, since the only fault code again is the maf sensor coming up as defective, even though it isn't.

Depending on where the MAf sensor is, it is possible for the modified airflow to provide the incorrect signals to the MAFF, resulting in lean or over rich fuelling. A snorkel or 'hi-flow' filter can do this. Possibly causing hotter running temps. (I attended a very interesting seminar on petrol and diesel engine tuning by FOMOCO lat week)

Peak torque on your engine as standard, was 2000rpm, so you are running at a less efficient rev range, again possibly causing hotter running.

Remember, this is a Ford Transit engine, modified for the Defender. In the Transit it was particularly infamous for various issues, inlcuding the MAF sensor

[steve b]

Is the replacement MAF sensor genuine? I've had OEM MAF sensors that are out of spec when new. 

Steve

[smallfry]

I would also try unplugging all the sensors and senders, and spraying contact cleaner on them, blowing dry with compressed air, and reconnecting.

Could be damp or dirt, or even oil from a leak ingress. Never know your luck and its free, more or less.

Just what you need now the cold weather is here, and traditionally, your Land Rover will be out of action when you could do with it most !  

[smallfry]

22 hours ago, steve b said:

Is the replacement MAF sensor genuine? I've had OEM MAF sensors that are out of spec when new. 

Steve

I can also vouch for this given past experience.

[landroversforever]

I was going to ask if it was a genuine MAF you'd fitted. 

What kind of filter have you got fitted? The oiled foam type ones like a K&N etc can also contaminate MAF sensors too.

[Badger110]

A MAF sensor won't cause the car to slow or go into limp mode, i know this as mine was unplugged for a week or 2 before i plugged it back in.  

A faulty sensor may cause unwanted signals to the ecu though, try running the car with it unplugged.

 

I'd be looking at a few things to start with;

 

1. VCV 

2. Fuel pressure release valve

3. Fuel line trace to the fuel cooler on the inside chassis rail NS just below the engine mount. Check the fittings.

4. Fuel filter housing

5. Head temp sensor 

 

The fuel is returned to the main tank or circulated back to the VCV based on temperature, if you have any small discrepancies with the fuel lines/filter housings etc, it will introduce air to the system and will cause power loss.

This happens as the heated fuel opens up the plastic fittings of the filter housing.

Check my thread of trying to find and finally solving my issue which was very similar to yours

 

 

On inspection of the filter housing, i could not find a crack or failure, but replacing it worked for me.