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wibbly wobbly speedo


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Hmm, well it's currently sitting at just left of vertical, which I guess is around 1/4 of a tank, maybe slightly less.

Stupidly, I can't remember what the original gauge was showing when I removed it. I *think* it was around 1/4 - 1/2, so if that's correct it's slightly under-reading. I guess that's better than it over-reading though.

Did you ever have the low fuel light connected with the new setup (through the speedo) at all?

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That's right. Mine comes out of pin 1 on the lower speedo plug (C1061) and goes (through the dash loom) to the low fuel warning light. Good to hear that's when it comes on, about the same position as the old one used to (1/4 a tank or thereabouts).

I guess the best thing to do is wait until it comes on, then fill up to full...then I can work out how much was left in the tank when the light coming on by subtracting the amount I put in from the capacity of the tank.

Should allow me to have some confidence in the gauge :)

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Hmm, the needle is almost half-way through the orange segment and it still hasn't come on :unsure:

I pulled the sender wire off the tank unit and it came on, and then stayed on once re-attatched...but then I turned off the ignition and back on again and this time it didn't come on. At least I know the LED actually works for sure now.

What I might just do is just drive round the local roads tomorrow with some spare diesel until it either comes on or runs out :huh:

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the 2000MY Td5 owners handbook states the low fuel warning light [amber] will illuminate when the fuel remianing in the tank drops to 9 litres [2 gallons], refuel at the earliest oppurtunity.

so going on that & the fact the low fuel warning is controlled by the speedo/ECU, it must be preset within the ECU programming.

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That's my thinking Ralph. A 90 Td5 tank holds 13.2 gallons, or 60 litres, and my 200Tdi tank holds 12 gallons. The Td5 light is therefore designed to come on when the 13.2 gallon tank is at 15% capacity.

Worst case scenario is that I'll have to use the standard sender wire. Only issue is, I don't have one on my vehicle. There are only two wires on the sender, earth and the signal, the low fuel light wire came from a strange PCB that was taped up behind the instruments. Unfortunately I removed that, but I can just run a wire from the spare terminal on the sender up to the dash if necessary.

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that should work, connected to the low fuel wire from the speedo.

on my 110 the low fuel light is currently disconnected, simply because I cannot make the warning light come on via the speedo, even after draining the tank, or it just comes on very dimly when I slave in the new sender unit,if it's dry tomorrow I might drain the tank, swap in the new sender unit & connect the warning light wire to the speedo & see what happens, if it doesn't want to play I'll just connect it as per the original low fuel wire from the sender unit.

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Right, so the light came on today. I went straight to Tesco and filled up to the top. £45 and 43 litres later it was full.

The tank is 12 gallons, so 54 litres, which means that when the light came on it still had 11 litres inside. Nearly two and a half gallons, and at 25mpg 60 odd miles. Sounds about right.

Fits with the slightly under-reading JST mentioned, but more importantly I now know that the light will come on and roughly how far I have when it does :)

Cheers all.

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I've done this mod and the warning light comes on okay halfway through the orange area. Although, i'm wondering about the accuracy compared to the original 200tdi gauge. The Td5 gauge isn't linear (the first half takes up more space than the second) so i'm wondering if the sender gives a signal that the gauge inteprets differently... or does the connection through the speedo translate it?

The gauge seems to spend more time in the second to last quarter and then drastically drops once it hits the last quarter. On the motorway, an 1/8th would last 70 or so miles and the needle went fom the start of the orange to red within 20 miles!

Would the 110 tank still be approx 11 litres left for the warning light to come on? I guess i'll have to stick £80 in and do my own tests! <_<

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  • 6 months later...

Nice job Paul, the freelander bit you gave me is doing well, I still can't get the speedo damping circuit light the low fuel warning though, so I've connected the senders low level wire direct to the warning light as it was with the original gauges, I thinking the damping circuit within the speedo is busted, but don't know of a way to prove if it works or not.

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Nice job Paul, the freelander bit you gave me is doing well, I still can't get the speedo damping circuit light the low fuel warning though, so I've connected the senders low level wire direct to the warning light as it was with the original gauges, I thinking the damping circuit within the speedo is busted, but don't know of a way to prove if it works or not.

I don't know how 'intelligent' the TD5 Defender instrument pod is and whether it's functions can be tested with Testbook.

The easist way to test it would be to swap it with a known good one (got any TD5's at work ;) )

.

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I don't know how 'intelligent' the TD5 Defender instrument pod is and whether it's functions can be tested with Testbook.

The easist way to test it would be to swap it with a known good one (got any TD5's at work ;) )

.

unfortunatly no Td5 110's at my workplace that I'd be allowed to fiddle with, we have a Berlingo van for running about in.

my friend Earl on here, might let me borrow his for test purposes, but he's in excess of 200 miles from my home :(

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Oooh, you haven't got any more of those Sumomito connector halves have you?

Sorry James, that was the only one.

I picked-up a brand-new, still in the bag, Freelander 1 Main Harness which I've dismantled for the connectors.

Unfortunately, there's only one of those 14-way Sumitomo connectors in the whole loom :(

.

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I'll take one or two off you James, only 4997 to get shot of then ;)

Mo

That's the problem exactly :huh:

While there is undoubtedly a demand for these (and other) connectors, it's probably only for a few dozens a year, which would tail-off as vehicles got older and fewer, leaving you sat on a pile of several thousand unsold connectors.

I've chased up several sources and if the minimum quantities involved were sensible numbers, then I would have already started selling some of the more useful connectors and terminals.

I have managed to source a small(ish) quantity of -

Genuine AMP/Tyco 070 Terminals

(Switch Multilock Connectors - Defender 2002->, Discovery II, Freelander 1, Rover Cars)

th_IMG_2611.jpg . th_IMG_2613.jpg

Sumitomo 090 Terminals*

(Hazard Warning Light Switch Connector, Splice Connectors, 14-Way HD Series)

th_IMG_2595.jpg . th_IMG_2596.jpg

Yazaki/Sumitomo Tangless .250" Brass Terminals*

(Various Connectors - Discovery II/ Freelander 1 Main Lighting Switch, Headlamp Levelling Switch, Earth Headers, Fuse Box Power Connectors)

th_IMG_2603.jpg . th_IMG_2604.jpg

* = KET (Korea Electric Terminal) equivalents

I'm going to be putting them on eBay as a 'Buy it Now' (when I get a round tuit :blush: )

I'm not trying to make a living out of selling them, I originally bought them for myself, but have far too many for my needs, so will use eBay to try and recoup some of what they cost me.

.

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  • 1 month later...

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