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How long to fit galv chassis

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Having had time to thoroughly assess the condition of my new defender chassis, im thinking that a new galv chassis will definetley be needed in the future.

I have a full garage setup with ramp and all equipment you could ever need. What i dont have, is the experience with landrovers.

Im sure that if i went ahead with this i would end up replaceing lots of parts, nuts and bolts, and the wiring loom. With this in mind how long do you think it would take to strip and refit a 110 hicap onto a new galv chassis?

Working on the basis of 8 hours a day constantly.

Thanks.

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Holy carp! Thats the way to do it. A lot of work. I counted 4 dedicated useful peeps who new what they were doing and two other helpers. Call it 5 peeps for 48 hours, thats 240 hours in total! or 5 weeks for 1 man !

My god. And they new landrovers inside out!

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I just could not do it that way. I would need to take me weeks and I wouldn't want to put anything back on the new chassis before it was like new (or even brand new)

I don't think I would ever finish the job!

Rusty things bolted to a new chassis just seems wrong.

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I know what you mean. I was looking at how much flaky rust was on the rear axle A-Frame yesterday. Stuff like that would need to be replaced.

Also, you would need so many new nuts and bolts of the right size on site. Where the hell do you start with that! How do you know what size bolts are needed and how many?

Also they seemed to wire that thing up in no time!

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i did my 110 in 2 months and 2 weeks outside with no ramp ect.... that included overhaulling both axles inside and out, new brake lines, nuts bolts ect.... i think if you did the hours you plan you could do it a bit quicker.

just to give you an idea of what you can do....

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I have done 2 now, it takes around 2 full days with 4 people who have all the tools and experience, make sure you have several sizes of M6,8,10,12 in stock and don't let the momentum stop, if you have ramps by far the fastest technique is to lift the whole body off in one piece then pull the chassis out from underneath, take the engine and boxes out, put the axles under the new one, put the engine and boxes back in and put the whole lot under the body and drop it down!

Few tips:

Run new brake / fuel / wiring (trailer cable) etc down the new chassis and p clip it first before the swap

paint the chassis black or it will be pikied off your drive faster than greased weasel sh!t

DO NOT STOP for any reason, any hint of 'oh while thats in bits I could change that seal' etc will slow your progress immensely, if your on a deadline just get it swapped!

Read the many other posts on the forum about swaping it first!

Mike

ps I can recommend Richards chassis from personal experience

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Holy carp! Thats the way to do it. A lot of work. I counted 4 dedicated useful peeps who new what they were doing and two other helpers. Call it 5 peeps for 48 hours, thats 240 hours in total! or 5 weeks for 1 man !

My god. And they new landrovers inside out!

More details here and here

The 48 hours was an elapsed time from when I arrived Friday evening to driving home again Sunday evening. There were only four of us (and the dog) though we did have some visitors and even took time out to go and do a recovery. In total we put in about 87 hours. I have since swapped out some other parts but we did just what we set out to do and avoided the usual case of a chassis swap becoming a major, year long restoration.

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I have done 2 now, it takes around 2 full days with 4 people who have all the tools and experience, make sure you have several sizes of M6,8,10,12 in stock and don't let the momentum stop, if you have ramps by far the fastest technique is to lift the whole body off in one piece then pull the chassis out from underneath, take the engine and boxes out, put the axles under the new one, put the engine and boxes back in and put the whole lot under the body and drop it down!

Few tips:

Run new brake / fuel / wiring (trailer cable) etc down the new chassis and p clip it first before the swap

paint the chassis black or it will be pikied off your drive faster than greased weasel sh!t

DO NOT STOP for any reason, any hint of 'oh while thats in bits I could change that seal' etc will slow your progress immensely, if your on a deadline just get it swapped!

Read the many other posts on the forum about swaping it first!

Mike

ps I can recommend Richards chassis from personal experience

Hi there, my ramp has wheels free beams that span from front to back of the ramp. These beams can be left at any height and then the main ramp can be dropped down.

Is it really possible to undo all fixings that hold the body to the chassis? Without stripping everything? Thats incredible if so.

Allowing for rusted bolts here and there how long would this method take do you think ?

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yup, on mine (110 3 door) there are from front to back

4 bolts from wing to front x member + 2 tie rods from the slam panel

2 bulkhead bolts

2 or 3 seatbelt tie bars

8 front body mount bolts

10 rear x member to body bolts

then it lifts off... obviously after you have disconnected brakes/clutch wiring fuel etc

as I said 2 full days, bearing in mind that I don't have a ramp so we used an engine crane to lift the rear and a winch on a discovery round a snatch block on a beam attached to a big strop with a rigid tow pole wedged in the middle to stop it deforming the bulkhead! so take out the time required to set that little lot up and you're sorted!

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I`m still doing mine ,,,, unfortunately every time I go and work on it I find something else that really needs either changing or stripping , refurbishing and painting !! If your landy was mint other than the chassis then you could rush it , otherwise its the best time to change clutch, sort out gearbox , rewire, new brake pipes , polybush etc etc

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Two years, four months and counting....

But then, i had a shed. Not much is now original, and therefore I have done the "Don't put anything back on until it's brand new (or new looking)" thing that many people have said don't do!! :ph34r:

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Two years, four months and counting....

But then, i had a shed. Not much is now original, and therefore I have done the "Don't put anything back on until it's brand new (or new looking)" thing that many people have said don't do!! :ph34r:

I expect to be on the road come June and it will be about three years.

However, everything has been stripped and refurbed with exception of the gearbox and transfer box so essentially (to my eyes anyway) I have a new motor that cost half of a new one and being galv chassis and bulkhead will last me all my days.

If I was to do it again I would buy one already done! :D (all stripping and refurbing makes Jack a dull boy! :D )

I sometimes can't remember what its like to do a bit of off roading......... :P

Cheers

G :)

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2.5 days on your own, I lifted the body off in one lump. See my thread in member's motors for the easy way to do it ;)

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Hi done a complete  new chassie change in 2 days  it all depends on what else you find whilst doing  the swap  good look 

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I have fitted three Richards chassis , one to my 1991 110 Hardtop, one to my 1994 90 station wagon, and one to my son's 1998 110 pickup. Working alone and seven days a week, each one took approx three months but other than engine and gearbox and the transfer box on two, everything was completely dismantled and treated.I don't see the point of not doing this if you intend to keep the vehicle.For example it is the ideal time to deal with any rust on the bulkhead and properly treat it and apply wax oil while it is upside down

no problems, just so time consuming - good luck 

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What a great thread.

Mine took 3 years (albeit over two of them rotting in a field while more stuff got shot blasted and sent for galving, or bought new and sent for galving). What I will say......if you love the vehicle for yourself and have no intention of ever selling it, then take as long as you want. As is seen above, the time taken to do something on a landy is pretty versatile.

My opinion (and my experience) is that if you intend on keeping  this vehicle for ever, then just re-chassis-ing on a galved chassis is great but somewhat pointless for the very very long term. If you are going in for the long term,  then you should:

  1. Galvanise every single piece of mild steel on the beauty.....there's a lot of it, but primarily everything that fits on the bulkhead and chassis. Then,  paint every galvanised piece properly (Buzzweld now doing a direct to galvanise CIO, else properly use mordant solution  and age and then a really decent paint)
  2. Put some form of "electrolytic insulation" between EVERY dis-similar metal surface possible to prevent any electrolytic corrosion . For example, additionally use nylon washers when M4 SS meets aluminium. 
  3. Where possible replace all fixings, nuts, bolts with proper M4 (316) stainless steel (Note there's a lot of "fake" SS about - a very strong magnet is always a simple quick check). Remembering of course that many load bearing (e.g. suspension) bolts must be original spec as SS isn't strong enough for some applications.
  4. When you get to this point, you go marine SS brake lines and unions, loads of SS sills and stuff from YRM

Sadly the above costs s**t loads and "the plan" cost me 2 years more than I planned and 4 x my original budget and I didn't even do it! However it in theory should now out live me (structurally speaking)

 

Or less than a week, if you know what you are doing (unlike me) and have useful extremely useful helpers. OR even quicker as per the above videos and comments. Sorry for teaching grandma to suck eggs and Sorry for the unhelpful useless answer. My favourite Cornish slang is the word "Drekly" - meaning anytime between 1 second and a thousand years. Good luck

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Holy thread resurrection Batman!

If memory serves Trev had done a fair bit of prep on his 90 before we started - from spraying WD40 on all the fasteners, to sourcing loads of new consumable/expendable bits (nuts, bolts, bushes, brake pipes, etc.) so there was no faffing about trying to undo a 20-year-old seized bolt - just cut the thing with a grinder and stick a shiny new one in. If you put some prep in you can make life oh so much nicer.

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