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Comfy(er) Defender


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My Micra is now out of action leaving my 90 as my main vehicle. Its fitted with heavy duty springs which provides a relatively smooth ride with a ton of sand in the back, but this does cause some problems with fuel economy and doesn't leave much room for the dog or the shopping.

It spends most of the time unloaded and driving over any kind of bump at the moment literally beats me up!

Anyone got any spring, and maybe damper suggestions that isn't gonna damage my glass back?!

Cheers

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Standard 90 springs are reasonably cheap, should give you more of a comfy ride without harming the carrying capacity of the vehicle too much. Or go softer into the more off-roady type springs then you’ll be bouncing around but she'll loose any kind of cornering ability she once had and will roll like a hippopotamus. Have you got anti roll bars set-up?

Mav

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Standard springs and dampers should give a comfortable ride and still deal with heavy loads, but you could add helper air springs (Matt Savage) that sit inside the rear springs and can be inflated to help with heavy loads and deflated for normal use. Of course, that is an additional cost over a set of coil springs, but if you think that standard springs aren't enough for the heavy load occasions, it's about the most flexible and reliable system to have.

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presuming you've got some ultra stiff aftermarket springs on, try Land Rover HD rear springs as fitted to military 90's etc.

They won't take a ton of sand, but they're a bit stiffer than standard and give a nice ride with less body roll.

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I find even the standard 90 springs are too hard, and every bump is felt in the cab somewhat more than I'd like.

Current plan is to swap the rear springs (normally 225lb/in) for the current front springs (175lb/in), and then put 110 front springs on (154lb/in). Hopefully this will give a softer ride, at the expense of some load-carrying ability (which I rarely use).

Remember, 90s were almost all commercial vehicles. They're used by farmers and the like for lugging stuff, not for people carrying, so Land Rover have never bothered to create nice soft floaty suspension for them like they have with the 110 CSW. That, combined with the short wheelbase, makes for a horrific ride. Hence my idea for swapping them about a bit to try and make it softer.

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(All this is IMVHO and straying far from the original spring rates is a risk so you should take care - but it seems to work for me.)

I believe that unless you carry a lot of load all the time the normal setup is over sprung and very under damped. A useful starting point that seems to be a good compromise is 170lb all round, I use Range Rover HD rears which I think were sometimes called "police specification" they are Orange/White - but you do need better dampers with such soft springs on't back. I use Bilsteins set up for a RRC and it did remove a lot of the pitch in the ride.

This was with a V8 and a Husky hanging off the front so probably *similar* weight distribution to a TDI etc.

HTH

Regards Paul

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I find even the standard 90 springs are too hard, and every bump is felt in the cab somewhat more than I'd like.

Current plan is to swap the rear springs (normally 225lb/in) for the current front springs (175lb/in), and then put 110 front springs on (154lb/in). Hopefully this will give a softer ride, at the expense of some load-carrying ability (which I rarely use).

Remember, 90s were almost all commercial vehicles. They're used by farmers and the like for lugging stuff, not for people carrying, so Land Rover have never bothered to create nice soft floaty suspension for them like they have with the 110 CSW. That, combined with the short wheelbase, makes for a horrific ride. Hence my idea for swapping them about a bit to try and make it softer.

Sorry to go off topic, but why are 90 front springs a higher rating than those on a 110?

Thanks, Harry

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I,m currently on standard 90 csw springs and the ride is much better than it was with 'lift springs' - but still to stiff - when I change them next I shall be using standard disco 300tdi springs. Th disco is the heavier vehicle and yet has softer springs! Although I do have good shocks to help stability though. Also I may fit some spring spacers to retain the normal ride height if the disco springs cause it to drop more than an inch.

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Dont fit 300tdi disco springs as they are very stiff , I have them on my 90 as I basically put 300tdi auto powertrain complete onto my 90 inc axles and springs , only mod was rotoflex coupling was deleted . They give a slight lift but very little flex , am considering rrc rears as that had boge hydromat levelling like a 110 csw which has softer springing than the non levelled 110, which fmhe was a good supple ride.

Has anyone else tried standard. RRC springs on a 90 ?

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Has anyone else tried standard. RRC springs on a 90 ?

If you mean RRC fronts on the front and rears on the rear then yes - I thought they were too soft.

Standard RRC rears on the front of my V8 90 were OK until I hung the Husky on the front.

HTH

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Sorry to go off topic, but why are 90 front springs a higher rating than those on a 110?

Thanks, Harry

No idea. I would assume that it's because as above 90s are all commercial vehicles, 110 SWs are not so have softer springs.

I imagine a non-SW 110 would have the same springs up front as a 90 does.

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I find even the standard 90 springs are too hard, and every bump is felt in the cab somewhat more than I'd like.

Current plan is to swap the rear springs (normally 225lb/in) for the current front springs (175lb/in), and then put 110 front springs on (154lb/in). Hopefully this will give a softer ride, at the expense of some load-carrying ability (which I rarely use).

Be careful! - the figure of 154lb/in for 110 fronts is VERY misleading!

Standard NRC 8045 and NRC 8044 110 front springs are dual rate. The initial rate of the springs IS 154lbs/in, BUT, with the weight of the 110, the first three coils close up until they are touching, and the second 'rate' comes into play, which is 210lbs/in.

Unlike most vehicle dual rate springs, these Land Rover 110 fronts are designed to close up the first three coils at ride height. This is so that the front will support fairly high loads at the 210lb rate (without being lifted) whilst still enabling supple articulation in the rough by the opening up of the closed bottom coils.

Many people who buy older 110s think the front springs are knackered because they see the first 3 coils closed up. They aren't necessarily knackered!

Hope this helps,

Regards, Diff.

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Be careful! - the figure of 154lb/in for 110 fronts is VERY misleading!

110 front springs are dual rate. The initial rate of the springs IS 154lbs/in, BUT, with the weight of the 110, the first three coils close up until they are touching, and the second 'rate' comes into play, which is 210lbs/in.

Unlike most vehicle dual rate springs, these Land Rover 110 fronts are designed to close up the first three coils at ride height. This is so that the front will support fairly high loads at the 210lb rate (without being lifted) whilst still enabling supple articulation in the rough by the opening up of the closed bottom coils.

Many people who buy older 110s think the front springs are knackered because they see the first 3 coils closed up. They aren't necessarily knackered!

Hope this helps,

Regards, Diff.

Did you find that bit of trivia on a christmas cracker? My 110 station wagon doesnt have springs like that, my friends with a factory fit front winch doesnt have springs like that and my Girlfriends very early 110 doesnt have springs like that.

A closed up spring is no use at all.

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I've got red/whites on the rear of my 90 with a 1inch lift, and britpart HD yellow ones (i think) on the front - I copied a thread thats in the tech archive. I found the soft springs on the back sag quite a bit hence I put a 1inch alu spacer in, improved things no end, now she's "tight" but "soft"... with a good even ride height. I've got modulars on which improve her cornering stability no end too.

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Did you find that bit of trivia on a christmas cracker? My 110 station wagon doesnt have springs like that, my friends with a factory fit front winch doesnt have springs like that and my Girlfriends very early 110 doesnt have springs like that.

A closed up spring is no use at all.

No, I didn't 'find that trivia in a Christmas cracker' - and I find that comment unnecessary and insulting. Your post does not help any of the people posting queries in this thread.

I am referring to standard 110 front springs part no.s NRC 8045 and NRC 8044 these are denoted by two yellow stripes on one, and two white stripes on the other.

A 110 with a factory fit winch does not come with NRC 8045 and NRC 8044 front springs, it comes with heavy duty springs NRC 9448 and NRC 9449 which are 225lbs/in and are the same as standard 90 rears.

If the other two 110s you are familiar with didn't have progressive springs on the front as described in my post, then it is most likely that they were fitted with any one of many alternative springs which are available, either aftermarket or genuine.

Regards,

Diff.

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I totally agree with Diff. 90 HD rear and discovery Tdi rears are also dual rate. To get the true picture, get both the ratings. 110 front spring bottom coils touch even from the factory as pointed out and is a design feature. I had a set of standard 110 springs and a set of 90 HD springs on a V8 90 and the the front bottom coils touched and the rear top coils touched. The touching coils even have a piece of rubber tube around (genuine LR)for this very reason.

Toby

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Range Rover HD rears which I think were sometimes called "police specification" they are Orange/White 170 lb

Sorry that is incorrect.. they are RED/White... mine are now slightly rusty and the red looked a bit orange ;-)

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I have a 300TDi Defender 90 converted and have been thinking of replacing the springs and struts. I understand that the Land Rover springs are best for a comfortable ride, but I cannot determine if I have the +2in lift height or the standard height. The springs are red and I do not see a stripe. I shocks are covered with some kind of black coating... similar to underbody rustproof coating. I cannot clean it or remove it, so cannot see what kind of shocks they are. Are there standard points that I can measure from the ground that will help me determine? The ground to center of hub distance is dependent on the wheel/tire size... can the distance from wheel hub to frame hep me determine the height? If so, what two points do I measure? Thanks for the information.

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