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raudiduncan

Does / Don'ts for 110 rebuild

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Hi Folks,

I have just taken ownership of my Dreg 110 (currently utility but to be CSW soon!).

I was hoping if people could give me a list of does and donts etc for a rebuild.

Car currently:

2x salisbury axles,

300tdi

gearbox ...unknown but not that slick to say the least)

Full galv chassis

doors all good, Utility rear.

Interior pretty bare/got dodgy seats in it - dash is good though.

sunroof (i would like to keep but know they are a pain!)

The Plan as i see it at the moment:

1.Strip all panels, blast and galv ALL steel work, and send all off in bits to get repainted (prob met grey - is it bonetti?)

2. Have a tinker with any mechanics that need it.

3. Look at gearbox /clutch.

Rebuild and Add following:

4. swing carrier - thinking paddock spares one

5. Side runners - are the brit part cheapos ok?

6. Boost alloys and Bf goodrich - what issues here?

7. small amount of checker - already got just needs cleaning..?

8. Snorkel - best one and place to buy?

9. Rear step (NAS what ever that means) - best place to buy?

10. and swanky roof rack at a later date

So I would appreciate any help/ comments on things to do during the rebuild i.e.

11. Door hinges - galv ?

12. galvenising things,

13. cheap interiors, seats, carpets...

14. is it really worth putting discs on back, and vent on front?

15. gearbox / clutch jobs.

16. using SS bolts or not (i thought they would reactive with ali),

17. drill all poprivets and re rivet after painting or not?

18. Cheapest/best place for parts and accessories?

19. top OS wing is sagging - can i sort out or replace?

20. OSF door is sticking out a bit at bottom...how to fix other than kick!

21. Wierdly there is a gap on NS wing by the bulkhead but not on OS any ideas why?

Appologies a long post but it could be longer!!

cheers

Duncan scratching_chin.gif

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Stay away from anything that comes from B/Part as it'll more then likely cause you grief and it'll be a waste of your hard earnt cash

JMHO

John

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Only Land Rover can build a COUNTY. You can build a station wagon and ad County trim.

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Avoid putting stainless steel bolts anywhere near aluminium unless they are nickel plated, or you do some fancy isolating between them, which I always think is too much hassle, and don't use stainless bolts for anything which is loaded or might be loaded - like a seatbelt buckle.

Your brakes will largly depend on what type of work you do. A vented front upgrade is usually just a striaght forward bolting job for a competent mechanic. A friend of mine does a lot of heavy towing with his 110, and has vented front discs and drum rears. Although he's looking to upgrade the rears to disks, its from a maintanence point of view not braking force.

If you go the the land rover workshop webpage, you can enter the part numbers and it will tell you which of the big supplies is cheapest, but watch out for postage charges. A lot of the time, the cheapest place charges postage, and the final bill isn't that much different to PAddocks, which does free shipping over £50.

Avoid Britpart for things like bearings, seals, all brake bits...anything that moves really. They'll probably be alright for side steps, but don't be suprised if tweaking is required!

NAS steps are North American Spec, but I don't know where's cheapest, I'm a series man and they don't fit!

Check whether you can actually fit a station wagon body to your chassis. Like I said, I'm a series man, and a long wheelbase utility chassis can't have a station wagon body fitted without welding on the brackets. I don't know if 110's are the same.

Mantec always seem to get get good reviews for snorkels.

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1. If its a 3 door van , chassis will need some addition, galv is a good idea , dont see need to paint galv, if doing grey then galv blends(contrasts) well , it does on my 90 . sunroof its upto you quite often a leak waiting to happen , when really hot doesnt give you any shade in cab

2 Best time to do it and do it right first time , a decent trouble free period can then be expected

3. time to id gearbox and go 380 if needed, mod clutch fork , new clutch

4. good idea

5. fit heaviest rock sliders for side intrusion protection , get sort without extended out bar , as pita getting in and out when dirty

6. none

7. handy on wing tops if you have the thinner ali panels and whatever floats your boat

8. do you actually need to have one , if its looks just put a pipe and top up side of windscreen

9. sw foldaway step is more practical unless its a looks thing again

10 fuel burner unless you actually need one or ditto above

11 not suitable to galv there are other improvements available tho eg stainless

12 anything steel

13 ebay etc if going county then needs gen seating work out what number you need to carry , then can give more advice

14 standard is perfectly adequate , unless frequent heavy towing in hilly areas at speed !!

15 have alook at 3 above

16 useful if used correctly and of right spec

17 NO

18 ebay internet comparison as no single supplier , and quality very variable

19 See 7 above

20 see 11

21 brackets (previous damage ) also dont start expecting perfect alignment shut lines itll drive you mad !!

22 rubber seals

23 heater , needs to be perfect set up, and consider webasto as sw big inside volume for heating

Replace all brake pipes with Cuni

work out your budget and then allow at least 50% more

expect delays

if wiring isnt your thing get some professional help as big contributor to unreliability.

Hope thats given you a few things to think about .

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Ok, there's some confusion here on the subject of van (hard top) to station wagon conversions. Note, avoid the word 'utility' as that's a station wagon (five doors) but no rear windows. What I assume you currently have (given it's D-reg) is a three-door van.

First of all it's perfectly possible, but you do need a lot of parts. Contrary to what some will tell you, there are no differences in the chassis, save for bolt-on brackets and an extra bolt on beam. All of these are available from aftermarket suppliers. I bought Britpart items and had them galv'd,

My somewhat rambling thread on it is here

Matt

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Only Land Rover can build a COUNTY. You can build a station wagon and ad County trim.

I wish I'd put money on that being your reply Mike!

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Only Land Rover can build a COUNTY. You can build a station wagon and ad County trim.

No they can't. They don't build Countys any more... Land Rover's County is also a trim pack :P

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Thanks guys,

Sorry for the confusion its a Utility station wagon - ie 5 doors. (though i dont think they made the utility in Dreg so guess it was changed at some point).

Mo how much you offering?!

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My blog at www.jeremymedwards.co.uk/ is possibly relevant - a long and painful rebuild of a 1989 TD CSW to a 200Tdi County Station Wagon.

Find the best painter you can and use them. Mine was a prat and it looks like I will have to get some parts done again as the paint has not stuck very well, (some 2+ years and 40,000 miles later).

Second hand doors are probably not worth the money - even after stripping, cleaning, repainting and spraying with waxoil, the dissimilar metals are reacting in the base of 2 doors. When I was trying to finish the rebuild new doors were just not on the market, they are now and there are choices of metals and finishes.

You are going to need a lot of bits for Van to CSW- you will need the parts manuals if you do not already have them. Many of the bits will be superceeded and getting the current parts numbers can be a sod. Make friends with your local independent parts seller and the local dealership as you will need help to select the right bits at the right price.

Older station wagons have sun roofs, just don't bother, they are not watertight in the long term.

My trim is ether Land Rover, (new or recycled), Exmore Trim, or LaSalle, it all works fine but I cannot describe it as cheap. It is robust though. The LaSalle headling is a pig to fit but the effort is worth it and considerably cheaper than the LR alternative.

Looking at your numbers, my comments are:-

6: No issue with the tyres but alloys on a live axled vehicle seem silly to me. I have steel wheels, not the Wolf ones as they are stupidly heavy

11: hinges; mine are anodised, they seem to keep well but the paint has not stuck properly

14: I went from a TD with drums at the back to disks front and back. As the 200Tdi is usefully faster, the vehicle felt underbraked as standard. Unless you tow a heavy trailer all the time, I'd suggest that vented front disks are overkill.

15: New everything - changing clutch components is a sod, so do it while it's apart. I have a recon Ashcroft gearbox - try and do everything properly once.

16: Stainless bolts everywhere will give your wallet severe stress and will create reactive corrosion, but I would still use stainless for the door hinges and the little self tappers for the grill and the sidelights. Normal bolts of the right grade everywhere else. Rust acts as thread lock.

21: Suggest wing flange is bent.

Defenders are never properly square- you will go insane trying to get it exactly the same on both sides. Mine has some 10mm fillers on one side! Some doors, new or secondhand have to be bent to shape!

Good luck.

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Sell the 110 and buy a 90.

Mo

Wish I had put money on that being Mo's reply ;)

More practical advice:

I have Bearmach basic rocksliders, they stand maybe an inch proud of the body so just enough to stand on without the extended bits that get your clean trousers muddy

Brakes - never had an issue with the standard kit, can't see the point upgrading to vented etc.

I've got Exmoor Trim high back rear seats and re-trim kits for the front seats, they are wearing OK given the abuse they have.

Chequerplate should only ever be used horizontally on bits you want to stand on, anywhere else is just daft.

Boosts are the best looking standard Alloys for a 110 IMHO, I use 255/85x16 BFG MTs, fantastic tyres, useful upping in gearing for economy.

Will :)

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Thanks guys,

Sorry for the confusion its a Utility station wagon - ie 5 doors. (though i dont think they made the utility in Dreg so guess it was changed at some point).

Mo how much you offering?!

Ahh that makes things clearer! And it seems you need far fewer parts than I first thought!

Do you have 'utility' sides without rear quarter lights? If so I might be able to swap for a set of station-wagon sides (see the piccie in the thread I linked to).

Ahem.

Back on topic, the 'do it right, once' mantra has a lot to reccomend it. Landies appear to attract more than their fair share of bodgit nscarper owners!

And ignore the County Police! Interior trim can range from stable mats through to Alcantara - and it's all pretty easy to do yourself. Sourcing original fit plastic trim Isnt though

Matt

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Mo how much you offering?!

I still have my dignity, Sir.

Mo ;)

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Chequerplate should only ever be used horizontally on bits you want to stand on, anywhere else is just daft.

Chequerplate anywhere else is a sign of either a fashion victim or someone trying to hide corrosion!

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As it's going to be in bits I'd treat yourself to a heated screen (I know it's extra but on those cold mornings it's fantastic)

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Do not underestimate the undertaking if doing a complete rebuild. If you are renewing chassis, changing engine type, going for a different body style, having a respray, rewiring, and basically renewing and repairing everything as you go then you will likely need 12 months to 3 years doing it in your spare time unless you are 100% committed and know exactly what you are doing from the off. You will need a lot of space to store stuff and room to work around the vehicle in the dry. I bet there are more Land Rover rebuild projects have been sold as such than have ever been completed.

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there was a good thread on here not too long ago about refurbing/improving door hinges withan M8 bolt instead of a pin anda grease nipple. definately worth doing as it will save you money on buying brand new (usually as sloppy) hinges and you will get nice tight hinges then

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However long you "think" its going to take double it (Quadrouple in my case) :rofl:

However much you "think" its going to cost - double it + 50% x Fudge factor + Fussyness + OCD = :rtfm: from SWMBO

However much grief you are going to get off the other half - Double it at least

That said it is extreamly rewarding - well thats what I keep telling myself anyway :ph34r:

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However long you "think" its going to take double it (Quadrouple in my case) :rofl:

And mine!

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And mine!

Ah the joys of being a singly lol

John

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However long you "think" its going to take double it (Quadrouple in my case) :rofl:

However much you "think" its going to cost - double it + 50% x Fudge factor + Fussyness + OCD = :rtfm: from SWMBO

However much grief you are going to get off the other half - Double it at least

That said it is extreamly rewarding - well thats what I keep telling myself anyway :ph34r:

:excl: What he said :excl:

I've said this on a couple of threads now: If you don't want to replace it don't remove it.

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