PeteMck Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 yer its one of niges. fuel is but a couple of weeks old. you can smell fuel really but you can feel it running through the return pipe. dont no if the engine ran. I am led to believe it did but..... MAP gauge starts at 97 but it stays there. Doesnt seem to be getting fuel via in the injectors. Is this more likely to be the injectors are siezed or the comp program (bear in mind i started doing this in OCT 2012 and am still going due to various work commitments etc and the truck being 40 odd miles away from where i live. lol. so the engine has been sat in the vehicle for quite a while.Finally on holiday so desperate to make some progress! Feel like this thing will never bloody run! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 I would think it highly unlikely all the injectors would have seized up. Maybe 1 or 2 but that wouldnt stop it running i wouldnt have thought, even if it was roughly.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 I had a set of old old old flapper injectors on my v8 when I first squirted. It wouldn't start. 6 of the 8 were seized shut. A sharp tap with a hammer and suitable drift freed them off well enough to get things going. So have you pulled an injector yet to see if it squirts anything? Can you feel them clicking when cranking? If you find that they deffo are not squirting then rig a couple to test direct from 12v. Don't do this with flapper injectors though! They need a resistor in series and will not like 12v. If they don't work direct on 12v then there's your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Silly me, I'd assumed we were starting with known working parts You don't need much fuel to start & idle, bearing in mind the fuel pump is / should be capable of fuelling the engine flat out at peak RPM. As long as the plumbing & pressure in the fuel rail is correct it's fine for now. You can pull the whole fuel rail off with injectors, pressurise it with an air line & tap the connector (briefly) with 12v to see if each injector fires. For the basic problem of starting & idling we don't care about spray patterns etc. as long as *something* happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteMck Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 ok, well injectors are out. got one that isnt working. any suggestions on how to get it working? can here it clicking when i stick 12 volts across it but no fuel out. end of life for it? taken off hole rail and pressurised it with fuel to test them all and manually stuck 12 volts accross them all to see if they were working. havnt tired off loom yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteMck Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 realised that doesnt make the best of sense. I havnt seen if they are working by using the MSQ loom yet. But 7 out of 8 work when applying 12v to them directly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 If 7 out of 8 are working, then although not perfect, it wouldnt stop it running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 I stuck a plastic cups under each injector on the engine then you can see if the same amount is coming out of each one roughly and you know if it's wired ok. Just be careful of sparks :/ Shame you didn't see the engine run before but I guess you've checked the timing etc to know your trigger wheel is right. Probably wouldn't stop it starting but where did you connect the map pipe and does the gauge move if you suck on the pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/110787048109?nav=SEARCH Buy a NOID tester...saved what's left of my sanity when I had similar issues with the 5.2s injection probs.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteMck Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 yer. will test the injectors using the MS loom and will see what happens with the map pipe. map pipe is taken off the pipe from the regulator on the end of the fuel rail, anyone got any suggestions on ways to get the other injector to start working? can hear it click but doesnt squirt anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Soak in carb cleaner and keep dabbing it on and off the 12V supply, as well as tapping it sharply on the side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteMck Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 ok, well heres a quick update on the situation. injectors (except one) all firing away off the loom. :S currently trying to source another injector before i reassemble it all. Also got 8 new spark plugs in case the old ones werent making a strong enough spark so i can eliminate them. Hopfully get it all reassembled and try again on monday. if that doesnt work then im out of ideas short of rebuilding the engine. lol, which i dont really want to do just yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Did a compression test yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteMck Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 engine has to be at running temp for that doesnt it. guess i could do it cold to if there is any compression at all. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 You can do it cold, in fact often you get two different figures in manuals, one hot, one cold. Think the cold figures are around 120PSI for the RV8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Five pages in and no-ones bothered to find out if the biggest problem is fuel or spark? Shot of easi-start up the intake - if it fires and runs, your first problem is fuel. If it doesn't, your first problem is sparks. (barring mechanical failure obviously) As a side benefit, it does a decent job of drying contaminated plugs, not to make them perfect, but sometimes good enough to get it to start unaided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobtail84 Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Just another idea.... You have 12v live to the injectors and they are fired from the ECU via the earth. Have you earthed the injectors else where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chazza Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Five pages in and no-ones bothered to find out if the biggest problem is fuel or spark? Incorrect - that issue was established on page 4! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Obviously I'd tuned out by then... back to sleep then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Lol Your normally right. ..everyone deserves and gets away with an off day now and again dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteMck Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 ok, so new spark plugs are in as is the new injector. Tested all leads, plugs, injectors and ports on coil packs so know that every cylinder is getting fuel and a spark at some point. Since doing this the engine now catches and makes a cough then turns over for a couple more seconds and then catches again and keeps doing this. Suggestions please!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Sounds like trigger wheel positioning to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteMck Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 well ive double checked that the engine is at top dead center using the trusty poke something in the spark plug hole for no.1. cylinder and see when its at the top of its travel and the sensor is pointing directly at the 5th tooth. Will double check that the valves are opening at the right time when i get the chance but other than them being out anyone got any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 With the gap ahead or behind? Checked the plug leads are on the coil packs in the right order? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteMck Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 gap is ahead. will triple check leads but 99% sure they are in the right place. it sounds like its not getting fuel but having tested the injectors in the fuel rail using the MSQ wiring i know that they are all working and are firing out a fair bit of fuel. Also know that the coil packs all work as do leads and plugs. Starting to think either the valve timing is completely out so the fuel isnt making it to the cylinder at the right time or the MSQ ECU is the problem. seems unlikely that the valves would be out but by no means impossible so think thats my next area to check i think. :S and will triple check the trigger wheel. Also how does MSQ no which injector to fire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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