reb78 Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 I was having a poke around the 110 the other day and couldn't resist poking a finger at a rusty patch on the c pillar in the wheel arch. Of course, it crumbled and left a hole. Both sides are similar. The MOT is due at the end of the month, so i guess these need repairing for that. So in preparation i have bought the YRM repair pieces - look well made. I've kind of run out of puff at the moment for more dirty repairs and also have a cold, so i went out to start doing bits today, but ended up just stripping the sill and body panel that covers the c pillar, poked the rust a bit more and then packed up. Rather than rush in cutting bits out, when i had clearly lost the will anyway, i thought i would see how you guys would approach it. I think the floor will need to come out, but does the rear 'seatbox' need to be removed too or will i get away with it in place? I'm currently thinking that it would be easiest to cut the c pillar about a third of the way down the angled section (where the blue tape marks it below) as it is sound above that point and then cut the YRM part to fit. What do you think? Cutting it there should allow easier access than fitting the whole YRM part as getting decent access at the top looks a bit of a pain with the quarterpanel overlapping everything. Here are some pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Isn't the rear seatbox also the rear tub? G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Isn't the rear seatbox also the rear tub? G. Don't know. It's definitely staying in place if that's the case! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Yes, all part of the rear tub, separating and removing is a major job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 I'd be tempted to try and cut it away to fresh steel in pieces until you are left with nice horizontal welds you can do from the top/side. Even if it means putting repair section in in more than one piece then grinding it back to match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 on mine we replace the lower channel with box & then cut out the bad part of C post angled part & sleeved it with box, drilled holes to puddle & seam weld it together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 I replaced both of mine with the YRM parts. Used the whole part only because I didn't want to weld it. Hardest bit was splitting it where it's spot welded to the vertical part of the c-post. No need to take out the seat box as it's not joined to it other than the horizontal bracket part. There's a foam insert which fills the gap between the c-post and the seat box - I used the same foam tape that seals the floors panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 I replaced both of mine with the YRM parts. Used the whole part only because I didn't want to weld it. Hardest bit was splitting it where it's spot welded to the vertical part of the c-post. No need to take out the seat box as it's not joined to it other than the horizontal bracket part. There's a foam insert which fills the gap between the c-post and the seat box - I used the same foam tape that seals the floors panels. I think, based on my own experience, the the foam insert is a theoretical seal only! Personally filled the gap with a PU sealer - stopped yet another leak, only 1/2 a million to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 On CSW's that I have seen the gap is usually filled with the carpet that covers the seatbox , no wonder the bloody thing rots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 best method ive come across is to cut the reapir panel to just larger than the area needed to be repaired then draw around the repair panel and cut along the lines, use a magnet to hold the repair piece in place and weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 These kind of jobs can seem tricky, and sometimes the precise repair methodology wont come to light until you actually start removing the bad area's. What I would recommend is getting a good spot weld remover drill bit, this can help you remove the bad bits in sometimes a more controlled manor than hacking into it with the grinder. Something I've learnt with my CT discovery rebuild is that if you're struggling to work out how to fit a big piece, then its too big, so make the 1 bit 2 bits, and then things don't seem half as complicated... Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 I replaced both of mine with the YRM parts. Used the whole part only because I didn't want to weld it. Hardest bit was splitting it where it's spot welded to the vertical part of the c-post. No need to take out the seat box as it's not joined to it other than the horizontal bracket part. There's a foam insert which fills the gap between the c-post and the seat box - I used the same foam tape that seals the floors panels. Pete, when you say you didn't want to weld it, I take it you welded the final whole section in? If not, what did you do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 I think, based on my own experience, the the foam insert is a theoretical seal only! Personally filled the gap with a PU sealer - stopped yet another leak, only 1/2 a million to go. Haha! I'm chasing those leaks too! PU sealer is what I plan to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 I patched the right hand one on mine, but now need to do the left, and mine was indeed only sealed to the seatbox by the carpet being sandwiched between the two! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Pete, when you say you didn't want to weld it, I take it you welded the final whole section in? If not, what did you do? The original is held in top and bottom with a few spot welds and, as far as I could tell, this part of the C-pillar isn't load bearing for the roof. So I used stainless steel nuts/bolts on at the bottom and 5mm steel rivets at the top. To be sure this was OK I looked into the relative strength of the different attachment methods (spot welds, steel rivets and bolts) and they appeared to be close enough to be OK. I made sure all bolts and rivets were a tight fit so that there was no movement (one of the advantages of welding). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 The original is held in top and bottom with a few spot welds and, as far as I could tell, this part of the C-pillar isn't load bearing for the roof. So I used stainless steel nuts/bolts on at the bottom and 5mm steel rivets at the top. To be sure this was OK I looked into the relative strength of the different attachment methods (spot welds, steel rivets and bolts) and they appeared to be close enough to be OK. I made sure all bolts and rivets were a tight fit so that there was no movement (one of the advantages of welding). I'd often wondered why it wasn't like you described in the first place, sounds sensible enough, and the more important thing is that you actually thought about it before you did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 Thanks Pete and Mav. That's interesting and I did find myself wondering if that was an option when I stood looking at the structure on Saturday. I'll look again with this in mind at the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluehaze Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 When I started Pocking around and pulling the carpet away I cried - ended up replacing the floor! Still at least it is dry now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 Well, floor is out and the rotten bits of the c pillars are cut away ready to trim the yrm repair pieces to weld in. Getting to the top of the diagonal section would be too difficult with the body on and whilst you could cut it away, I'm not sure you would have enough access to weld in the new pieces easily. This is the drivers side. I'm going to use weld through primer on all the bits that will be have parts welded over them, then paint the lot once the new c pillars are welded in place. One quick question - I have new rubber seals for the bottom strip which rivet to the sills on my year vehicle. There seemed to be a metal piece with a rolled top that sits between the rubber and the sill, but that's rotted away good and proper on mine. Anyone know what they are and where I can get one for each side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 One quick question - I have new rubber seals for the bottom strip which rivet to the sills on my year vehicle. There seemed to be a metal piece with a rolled top that sits between the rubber and the sill, but that's rotted away good and proper on mine. Anyone know what they are and where I can get one for each side?I think I've found the answer for this bit ^^^^http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/BT3575.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3575/Products/133/SubProducts/133-0001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 originally part of the bodyside frame, so not sold as a seperate part by LR, only option is convert to 300tdi bottom seal on door or the YRM item you've linked too. must get around to fitting mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 Right. New c pillars are all welded in place. Quick question though. There are some small gaps where they meet the sill. Looking at the way the two plates from yrm that make these sections are setup, I can't tell if the gaps are meant to be there for drainage or if I should fill them in. I am leaning towards the latter. There are removable drain plugs in the sill at the lowest point. What would you do/have you done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 on mine the gap is unsealed between bottom of C angled section & the rear edge of rear floor plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted August 20, 2019 Share Posted August 20, 2019 On 10/14/2014 at 7:08 PM, Simon Smith said: I patched the right hand one on mine, but now need to do the left, and mine was indeed only sealed to the seatbox by the carpet being sandwiched between the two! Five years on and the right hand one needs doing again, including the back section of the sill. This time I'm going to fabricate from stainless steel box section and sheet. See if it lasts any longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 I've read this thread with interest. Thanks for the useful pics. The YRM link for the early door seals is now at this web address Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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