robertspark Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Tubes are cheap find an electrical wholesaler and avoid the big diy shops if you can Light output improves tremendously if you clean The lamps from time to time too Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Don't forget with energy saving lighting your EPC is better when you come to sell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Then swap the original bulbs back in and take the LED's with you when you move Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Don't forget with energy saving lighting your EPC is better when you come to sell Yeah, I've had an EPC on my old place, what a valuable and thorough exercise that was also no plans to move for a flippin' long time after all the hassle of getting this lot sorted, only been 3 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I had an debate once with someone that did the £500 hips assessments when you sold a house after they scrapped them, by the end of the conversation the only negative of scrapping them that we could agree on was that he'd lost his job. If your planning lots of grinding etc at the bench next to the racking I would consider a roller blind or curtain of some sort otherwise all your stuff gets covered in a layer of black and sometimes plastic bags etc end up with lots of holes in them 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 How long did you wait before applying that floor coating to the new concrete? Vapour shed is about to become a lot less vaporous (well, actually the existing one is about to become a lot more vaporous, but it's a start...), and I'm liking the look of that stuff, but it looks like you're supposed to wait a fair while before applying it to new bases? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 How long did you wait before applying that floor coating to the new concrete? The new concrete was probably 2 months old by the time I got round to painting (because of waiting for the walls & roof, natch), the "old" half it took me about a week to get round to it after the screed went down (but I think it dries in hours). If you're buying paint the chap at Ask Coatings is very helpful, tell him what you're doing and he'll tell you what you need - as I say their paint was the only one that explicitly said it could be applied to fresh concrete, all the others said it must be 12 weeks+ old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Has anyone suggested yet that you install a.... wait for it.... Fridge/Freezer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I expect a cold reception to that ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Give that man a cold beer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 The new concrete was probably 2 months old by the time I got round to painting (because of waiting for the walls & roof, natch), the "old" half it took me about a week to get round to it after the screed went down (but I think it dries in hours). If you're buying paint the chap at Ask Coatings is very helpful, tell him what you're doing and he'll tell you what you need - as I say their paint was the only one that explicitly said it could be applied to fresh concrete, all the others said it must be 12 weeks+ old. Must admit that they were the only company that answered my emails about floor paint - deffo getting my business. WHAT IS THE POINT OF HAVING AN EMAIL ADDRESS AND NOT ANSWERING QUERIES??????????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Fridge Do you have the right H&S certificates registrations and qualifications to paint that floor.....surely thats a job for a trained professional ....just like wiring <cough> PS :stirthepot: :stirthepot: :stirthepot: :stirthepot: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 wiring regs are a bit strange like that, in theory he can do it himself under the condition its checked over by a pro before/ if the property is sold..... in practice its not quite that simple... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 The new concrete was probably 2 months old by the time I got round to painting (because of waiting for the walls & roof, natch), the "old" half it took me about a week to get round to it after the screed went down (but I think it dries in hours). If you're buying paint the chap at Ask Coatings is very helpful, tell him what you're doing and he'll tell you what you need - as I say their paint was the only one that explicitly said it could be applied to fresh concrete, all the others said it must be 12 weeks+ old. Their data sheet says it should have been down for one month per inch, which is going to be quite a while for a garage base! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I was told the drying rate allowance / rule of thumb for concrete floors before applying coverings was 1mm/day allowance, except if you have underfloor heating, where you can aide the drying time a bit although you may still need to take a dampness test... ...day job tip.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 That works out roughly the same (25 days per inch rather than a month). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Must admit that they were the only company that answered my emails about floor paint - deffo getting my business. WHAT IS THE POINT OF HAVING AN EMAIL ADDRESS AND NOT ANSWERING QUERIES??????????????? I agree with that frustration. The number of companies I've added to the mental 'never using' list has grown considerably in the last fees months. No point in having an email address if you're not going to reply to enquiries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 The paint I used recommended 2 years old before painting on an idea trial floor. I figured by the time it was 2 years old I wouldn't be able to see the floor to paint it so I stuck it down anyway. It's peeled in a couple of places but is mostly ok. Maybe contamination? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 yeah, Asks's data sheet does say it has to dry, but I spoke to the man, explained that waiting was not really an option and he said basically no guarantees but it should be fine. Concrete curing is a chemical reaction anyway, it's not the water evaporating out. And to help you guys out - I did it on mine and it's fine, got an ambulance parked on it and it's fine. I've dragged heavy things across it (pallet racking & OSB) and although there's a few marks it's not chipped or peeled or cracked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Cheers - that's reassuring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 A slight re-jig has gone on, bench has moved to the end of the pallet rack so I can put a vice on the end & actually put long things in it. A 2nd bay of pallet rack would've pushed the ambulance out of the door and made walking round a right pain, so I'm taking advantage of my shed empire and will install the remaining racking in the "remote" shed and keep the garage as a workshop rather than general junk storage. The place that was taken up by the bench will get my biggest set of wire-mesh shelves. Big job of the moment is electrics - mostly I'm struggling with the idea that wherever I put a socket, later on it'll be in the wrong place and I'll wish I moved it. The "solution" to this is to put loads of sockets round the place Similar situation with lights, happily I've accumulated enough fluorescent fittings from various places to throw quite a few around. Hopefully this weekend I'll get the old garage door & lintel down and maybe bring the lathe home... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Re: sockets, and I know this may not be the ideal, but 20 yrs ago when money was tighter and building a double garage, we used 4-way extensions as a cheap way of getting many sockets in one place, and fixed to the wall with just 2 screws. Bonus with these is they are firstly cheap compared to metal sockets, and still very durable compared to normal wall fittings as they are designed to be put under people's desks and trodden on a lot. I have one above each workbench, one half way down each wall and one at the entrance each side, then a double metal socket (cos we had it) on the pillar between the two doors. I know it was a few years ago, but think I found similar to this for about £3: http://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplug-extension-lead-4g-240v-1m/58171 20 years on not one of them has failed apart from a slightly intermittent neon, which of course I care little about Not sure how Part P has changed that sort of thing though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 Bowie - funnily enough, that's how I did the 1st shed, using cheap 4-way adapters. This time I've splashed out on "proper" (although still plastic) sockets & back-boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 I've got a pair of double sockets above the workbench and another further down the same wall. The plan is to have two double sockets on the opposite wall as well giving a total of 10 13A sockets on the ring main. Plus two seperate 16A supplies (for welder/compressor/plasma type stuff). I tend to find that when doing stuff on a vehicle in the central work space I have to run an extension lead to the work site anyway as the flex on a grinder for example isn't long enough to reach to the wall without compromising the use of the tool. I suppose the answer to that is some of those hanging sockets coming down from the ceiling at a few points, they would need to be well located though to avoid either A. being in the way or B. hitting the vehicle when driving in. Or 'mobile' in that they could hang from a selection of points depending on the need. In the process of getting my electrics sorted properly at the moment, quite exciting! In my case the estate (landlord) electrician will install the 40A supply out from the house to a consumer unit in the workshop (albeit at my cost), and then they are quite happy for me to do the circuit wiring from there out. Weighing up whether to dig the required 600mm trench by hand or hire a digger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.