Coventrykid Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 (edited) Folks, I retired this year and have just treated myself to a 2003 Defender 90 2.5Td hard top which I collect Saturday 5th November (tomorrow yay). She's not in bad condition and looks solid underneath and all the potential problem areas look sound with minimal surface rust. Obviously being a 13 year old car it has small issues such as some minor corrosion at the bottom of the doors (inside) and a few scuffs etc which I look forward to addressing over the following months. I have bought a cubby box from Paddock in readiness for its arrival as the middle seat will be of no use to me, my youngest child is 6' 4". There are no fitting instructions so I was wondering on the neatest way of fitting the box and any tips from members who have learnt by their own mistakes, I want to make a really tidy job of it! My defender has been given an MOT and a service by the seller (trader) but I would appreciate any advice on the first things to address as a new owner, she has 95,000 miles on the clock so I'm considering a tune up and timing overhaul but any tips on what to check and keep an eye on as a new owner would be greatly appreciated. Returning the doors, the skins seem fine but how easy and costly is it to have the steel frame replaced, particularly the lower rail. Finally I'm going to have the chassis treated when the weather warms up and I'm unsure whether to go down the Waxoyl route or Ditrinol Sorry to bombard you all with so many questions Edited November 4, 2016 by Coventrykid Picture added Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 Some are made just to slot into the hole where the under seat panel would go so you can swap it over again easily, other's are made to be fasten down, mine is the slot in type but I have fastened it in and I raised it a bit so I could rest my arm on it whilst driving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 Most cubby boxes I've had have been bolted down with four screws into captive nuts in the centre seat plate. These may or may not be present on yours. 95,000 miles is barely run in on a Td5 - I wouldn't worry about modifications yet. Ensure it's properly serviced and then enjoy it for 6 months and put some miles on it before getting too excited about additions etc. The door frame repair is a welding job, I'd allow for a couple of days work to remove the doors, strip/repair, re-assemble and re-fit. But it isn't urgent either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 I wouldn't delay the chassis protection until summer - the winter is the worst for the chassis with all the water and road salt. A proper wax specialist will have heated workshops to steam clean, dry and then coat the chassis with heated waxes. Ordinary sales and service garages won't have the proper kit and will just pressure wash the underside outdoors (missing much) and then use basic kit to apply the wax cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 Door bottoms easily fixed. Repair sections are available from various places, remove door, unfold lower alloy lip, insert thin steel plate to protect alloy and grind out rotten section, remove, replace with new bit and tack weld in. Slather with anti-rust and then carefully fold back over the alloy door edge. I did mine on the drive, noting special needed except a large piece of cardboard and a sheet to protect the door surface. Given the time of year check wipers and motor are ok and also heater controls are set properly so its warm in the cab (various posts in the archive about this). Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coventrykid Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 Many thanks for your replies and advice, I'm sure I'll have plenty of other questions over the next few weeks and months. Good point about treating the chassis before the salted roads. I've been quoted £435 for the chassis treatment from a treatment specialist which seems quite expensive. I was going to have a go myself on a hired vehicle lift in the warmer weather but I understand that there's quite a lot preparation such as steam cleaning and wire brushing plus there would be better coverage with a professional air compressor rather than the aerosol option and there's drying out time too between cleaning and treating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 You appear to have spent £9K on the vehicle and (stretching) another £435 is going to be the best first purchase you can make. Keeping the chassis in top condition by properly protecting it now should be at the top of your list - IMHO. You can do it yourself but it's a filthy job, quite tricky to apply in cold weather and if you have the money and it's not too far to travel, I'd go there asap and it's done. Enjoy your retirement and you've come to the place for all questions and answers! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Welcome to the forum, and I hope you enjoy your Landy, including keeping it on the road! This is how my door repair project went. If you only want to replace the bottom rails then it'll be a much easier job. Best of luck with it, and I'll be watching for updates, with piccies. Mike Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Hi Coventrykid and welcome to the forum. I also recently took early retirement and its an interesting transition in life. The new truck looks very nice and there are a couple of things that are in my opinion essential to keeping it that way. Security and corrosion prevention/cure. After that its a kind of blank canvas, have fun :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 On 04/11/2016 at 8:10 PM, Coventrykid said: Many thanks for your replies and advice, I'm sure I'll have plenty of other questions over the next few weeks and months. Good point about treating the chassis before the salted roads. I've been quoted £435 for the chassis treatment from a treatment specialist which seems quite expensive. I was going to have a go myself on a hired vehicle lift in the warmer weather but I understand that there's quite a lot preparation such as steam cleaning and wire brushing plus there would be better coverage with a professional air compressor rather than the aerosol option and there's drying out time too between cleaning and treating. That sounds about right. That is the difference between the proper jobs and the poorly cleaned, poorly applied cheap wax job you'll get from a regular garage. Don't expect any wire brushing - they don't remove the rust, they just cover it and allow the wax additives to prevent further corrosion. If the pressure washer doesn't remove flakey rust, then they'll do that, but no more. But they will have the proper nozzles and probes to get thorough internal misting of the cavities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 on the subject of cubby box fixings, these 3 versions might help, http://www.albrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=768699&SPRACHE=EN slope front with removeable tray http://www.albrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=769163&SPRACHE=EN square front with fixed tray http://www.albrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=769153&SPRACHE=EN square front with removeable tray the rivet nuts are fitted to the blank panel under the centre seat location, the cubby box screws then go in from inside cubby box through spacers to the rivnuts, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coventrykid Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 Well Ive had the Landy for a few days now and had a good look over it, Waxoyl and Dinitrol can wait cos she's got a good coating of Waxoyl already which it seems I forgot about doh! There are lots of little tidying jobs to do and the door corner is also better than I remember it and can wait for a while. The only corrosion that may need attention appears to be on the internal seat belt floor plate and the alloy is actually degrading around it, the steel seat belt plate on the chassis will need changing too! (passenger side) Ive changed the steering damper with a new bog standard Armstrong one as the other looked like it was fitted when it was built and the casing was like a Swiss cheese. I've upgraded the lights to RDX ones as the others had also seen better days. i just need to fit the cubby box next as I didn't realise just how little storage there was, not even a door pocket for de-icer etc. The windscreen seal needs changing too as its started to crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 That's a nice looking Land Rover Coventrykid and it's even the right size ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Tidy 90, may you have many great adventures with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studmuffin Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Hi buddy. Nice looking 90. Enjoy it and welcome to the forum. If the screen rubber is cracked, maybe in the short term, push some black silicone into the cracks as a standby. If you decide to touch up the underneath, I prefer Dinitrol, but its everyones own preference. Last but definitely not least, as previously mentioned, get some layers of security as the first priority. Disklok, Safety pedal, X pedal, alarm/immobiliser, tracker, and then think about protecting your doors and bonnet. Cheers Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Welcome - it looks a great 90! I love this sealant, it cures easily and is very flexible and I've got a tube or two spread around my vehicle. It might help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 That looks very tidy. The seat base corrosion should be treated soon to avoid serious weakening of the structure - removing the bolts and washers, a scrape with a blade to remove loose surface deposits, a rust converter (aluminium treatment would be better, but rust converters work well enough) and a quick lick of paint, and then a liberal spray of wax on the back of the flange before refitting the bolts would look after it well. The second photo shows dark spots all over the chassis side. Are they surface marks, or are they from rust pitting? If the latter, that suggests advanced corrosion and a thin waxoil coat by the vendor, but it's impossible to tell from the photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coventrykid Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 Snagger I spent a long time under the car before I bought it with a powerful torch and small hammer and didn't find any weak spots or serious pitting so fingers crossed. I've bought a disklok as my first step towards security but would welcome any further ideas in obstacles I can put in the way of the thieving gits out there. The Landy has a the fob immobiliser but I'm sure there are ways past this for the determined thief. I was thinking about a hidden device to stop the engine being started or any other method to thwart moving it. In respect of trackers has anyone got tips on the best one to install and what the fees per month are for monitoring etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timc1967 Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 My approach to security is never to park it on the road or leave it in a carpark for longer than 20 minutes (DIY store). At home its behind a 6ft locked gate down the side of my house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 2 hours ago, Coventrykid said: Snagger I spent a long time under the car before I bought it with a powerful torch and small hammer and didn't find any weak spots or serious pitting so fingers crossed. I've bought a disklok as my first step towards security but would welcome any further ideas in obstacles I can put in the way of the thieving gits out there. The Landy has a the fob immobiliser but I'm sure there are ways past this for the determined thief. I was thinking about a hidden device to stop the engine being started or any other method to thwart moving it. In respect of trackers has anyone got tips on the best one to install and what the fees per month are for monitoring etc. As you say, if you want to add another coat of underseal, it can wait until the summer. They may not have done inside the chassis, so when you do it, also plan to spray inside the chassis, bulkhead etc. with a cavity wax like dinitrol 3125. You don't need to steam clean, just take your time, and do a decent wash and degrease of the chassis. Just allow plenty of time to dry before overcoating. Aerosols are perfectly ok, just cost more than the 1 litre cans, but if you don't already have a Schultz gun and decent compressor then they make sense. Move your alarm horn, from the inner wing to a position that's not easily accessed. Thieves often cut the horn by removing the front light. You can also look at moving OBDII port to a less obvious place or inside a lockable cubby box. The x-eng security products like the gear & transfer levers lock and ignition barrel lock are good products too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 And if you're concerned about theft from your house/garden, as quite often seems to happen, consider a pressure switch located beneath a paving slab on which you park, and connected under ground, if possible, to inside your house.. If the vehicle is moved the switch makes contact and sounds audible alarms and switches light on. Also, possibly takes photos of the area, including any scrotes vehicles. Since the vehicle is on the slab the switch cannot be accessed to disable it until the vehicle is removed. Also, remotely located PIR motion detectors can be set up to do the same functions, and are easily hidden/camouflaged. And now there are trail cameras, common over here due to the hunting contingent, which are also easily concealed and take photos initiated by movement. These don't initiate lights or sirens, but they do provide an opportunity to identify the slags. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/search-results.html?q=trail camera Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coventrykid Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 I've managed to get a few jobs done on the old girl now. RDX lights all round, the others were well past their sell by date and a couple had water ingress. I decided to fit the cubby box I'd bought and took most of the morning getting the centre seat out. In the end I had to get the grinder underneath and cut off the nuts to the Torq screws at the back of the seat rails!!! The seat plate was particularly badly corroded and very dog eared around the edge so I've replaced it with a newly fabricated 2mm alloy one that a friendly factory knocked up for £20. As recommended I have tucked the OBD port plug underneath the cubby box and the cubby has been secured down to the new alloy plate with four M6 bolts into rivnuts. I'm still looking at Trackers but in the meantime I have applied tracking warning stickers to the windows just to sow some seeds of doubt and invested in a new disklok. I've reupholstered most of the two remaining seats, just got the seat back to do on the drivers side. I've also fitted an LED strip light in the load area as it was pitch black and the front interior light just wouldn't illuminate it. Below are some pictures of the new alloy seat plate, it's absolutely solid and a lot better than the flimsy mild steel one I replaced. I ran some double sided window foam around the edge to stick to the floor pan and give a good seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coventrykid Posted November 15, 2016 Author Share Posted November 15, 2016 Folks, heres the finished look after bolting down the cubby box to the new alloy plate with four rivnuts.....so much more use than the middle seat and I finally have somewhere to put phone, wallet, de-icer, loose change etc 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 Where's the mud! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 That looks like new. Well, except for the steering wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.