HoSS

Volvo C303 Overlander Build

157 posts in this topic

Main vac lines to resevoir and brakes are 12mm. The lines for the difflocks are 8mm.

The valves and manifold are SMC VO39, you can find them on ebay etc.

I have tested the operattion, it works fine, alhough i have a small vac leak which i've tracked down to the turbo modulator, seems its not fully closed.

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Coupling drive shaft finished20150202_131746_zpslrafgxqw.jpg

The full assembly

20150202_144550_zpsdqpyqjn4.jpg

And fitted to the transfer box

20150202_144713_zpsayvjibew.jpg

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This is brilliant... fair play, it looks like you have some really well engineered solutions!!

Could I ask what is the measurement from the front most part of the 606 to the rear most point of the 722?

Thanks

Mat

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Thank you. I muddle along :)

I will take that measurement next time im there.

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So, the engine is running. Thus i can testify that you can leave the OM606 on ECU control with a elec IP and get it de-immoblised.

Although its a but rough and claky on idle. I dont have diagnostic technology yet.

It does run smoothly when i take it up to about 2k rpm.

Any diesel expert input welcome.

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I havent done much in the past weeks, waiting for a diagnostic box to check the engine. Need to get my prop shafts shortened/lengthened and then i can test drive.

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Moved to a new workshop, permitting a wide angle picture :)

20150406_223623_zpsnqhnnwiu.jpg

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Nice new workshop!

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Yes it is. I rent a 200m2 industrial unit with 3 friends. We even have a sofa, wifi, TV and beer fridge ;)

Taking delivery of my new(second hand) 2 point lift this week ;)

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Keep toying with the idea of taking over a bigger shed on the farm for a workshop share type affair. I think it makes a lot of sense.

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I'm taking my own thread off topic slightly, but i have a new toy

20150529_143931_zpsx2kyfplx.jpg

A question. Lift is rated at 2.2 t, my truck is about 2.1 t. How worried should i be? Its x years old. Jack screw type, so i should probably have it inspected. But i imagine also the rating is with arms fully extended, so some margin there.

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I'm taking my own thread off topic slightly, but i have a new toy

20150529_143931_zpsx2kyfplx.jpg

A question. Lift is rated at 2.2 t, my truck is about 2.1 t. How worried should i be? Its x years old. Jack screw type, so i should probably have it inspected. But i imagine also the rating is with arms fully extended, so some margin there.

you are on the limite and i think your lift is for cars not trucks you should have a minimum of 500 kg extra .

From the picture it looks very small

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It's for lifting, so there will be the safety factor built into the safe working load. I'd have thought the weight of yours would be fine.

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Be careful when lifting, always let it drop to the stops, and check that the arms don't flex too much when you try it out. As Ross said, safe lifting load should have a rather massive safety factor.

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These type of 2 post lifts - screw and nut - suffer from 2 main issues thread wear and bearing wear (those bits that support the cantilever load to the posts)

Any significant wear in either will up the load on the drive motor , so worth checking . Is it running direct on mains or through an inverter .

It should be good to lift one end at a time even with wear , and I guess the only way to is to try it on a full lift just off the ground and see if it restarts up or down and if all good an inspection would be a sensible idea for peace of mind .

always a handy bit of kit :)

cheers

Steveb

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I stand with the comments that there will be a large enough safety margin that you will be fine.

However I would definitely have it given a professional once over.

After it's been given a green bill of health I would use it with confidence.

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A loler engineering inspection might be worth paying for if your unsure.

If your within its working limit and it's passed a proper inspection you should be fine.

The worst things with these is if you alter the vehicle weight when it's lifted ie take a gearbox out or axle off the vehicle can tip.

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Theres are no stops, its a screw type.

Jack screws seem to be in good condition, its very well lubed and no signs of brass swarf or backlash.

The cantilever bearings spin nicely (off load when down)

I will get it inspected before i get under it.

Thanks for the input all.

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The worst things with these is if you alter the vehicle weight when it's lifted ie take a gearbox out or axle off the vehicle can tip.

Meh, people always say that, but it isn't really that big of a problem. Had a P38 on the two-post once, took the engine out, and I then climbed into the back to get some parts. Didn't budge.

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Meh, people always say that, but it isn't really that big of a problem. Had a P38 on the two-post once, took the engine out, and I then climbed into the back to get some parts. Didn't budge.

Depends on how precariously perched it is in the first place. I've seen the aftermath of a 109 falling off one of the front pads - reduced the end of the sill and wing skin to scrap pretty quickly. Waxoyl has very limited friction properties!

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So, the engine is running. Thus i can testify that you can leave the OM606 on ECU control with a elec IP and get it de-immoblised.

Although its a but rough and claky on idle. I dont have diagnostic technology yet.

It does run smoothly when i take it up to about 2k rpm.

Any diesel expert input welcome.

I've fount with my om606 that after having the fuel system off, I takes a few miles to truely smooth out again, although in that time I wouldnt call it rough more like just normal 200tdi running rough

It does seem to take a while to bleed out, once it does its incredibly smooth (petrol 6 cylinder smooth) even with my very stiff engine mounts

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