missingsid

Interesting I did not think that forum allowed auctions.

I wonder where the problem lies? Is it thar there is too much adjustment possible? Or that car rear wheel hubs have better tolerances than LR transfer boxes? Honda used disk handbrakes on the 2005 Civics and others, Rover used disk handbrakes (jaguar must have on the inboard disks?) so the idea is not impossible but others have internal shoes for them, LR use drums for the D3 and D4 I assume D5 aswell?

WTF? So if it was counterfeit just pass it on to some other sucker!!!

That is my expectation, you are not gluing two items together and hoping for correct spacing. It will be in the same thread so must be aligned. The tang is designed to break off out of harms way.

I just looked at the BBS shop and yes it is nonsensical in that the D3 is £110 more than the Defender @ £505 plus Def code @ £60 BUT the Defender plus D3 is as you say so £390 +£264 +£60 therefore buy it the wrong way round and it is £570 for D3 plus Def but £715 for Def plus D3. The new Evos all have the better spec cable so if you buy new Def one then you won't need the new cable saving £60 but still £80 more.

I posted this elsewhere but, my 04 Clio lost a cylinder on the motorway so called RAC. They used their expensive computer and found zero codes. Once back home I decided to try my £10 Chinese code reader and found the coil pack error code.

I have seen an article in a classic bike mag where they simply drill and tap to put a larger diameter bolt in then cut off flush and re-drill and tap std size. So very similar to those.

When I used to passenger in ARC and AWDC trials I noticed than in scrutineering all vehicles had to hold on 45 deg slope. All the LR drivers in both events used the same technique, drive up and ise the foot brake to dig the front wheels in. Why, because they had zero expectation in the handbrake holding.

Isn't stainless very heavy.

I have an SD1 carb 3.5 bought and fitted 30 years ago from a scrap yard. The only improvement since then was to adjust the SUs and dump the knackered dizzy for Megajolt. It probably needs a cam now though as it does less than 3,000 miles a year and a stuck valve may have taken a lobe down. Sorry not that usefull a post but my young son woke me up after a nightmare so I am wide awake and reading everything!

If you can find someone who has bought one of each to compare!

I could see it and download it with Firefox.

Wow, good result.

I am selling one but it is licensed for D3 a new vehicle type is around £60. I'm looking for £250 as it was £500 new. A Def TD5 Nanocom is £390 so not such a big saving.

Is there anywhere on the forum this can be put for reference as it is very useful particularly as a PDF or has it already been put in the tech area?

I can't help there, but looking at the photos and the pipework diagram it seems to show the valve has a connection and a larger diameter flange on it that shows the way round. HOWEVER that is just my observation and NOT a definitive answer.

Yes correct part number but eBay with wrong description. Try this one (sorry for font size). ERC7536 - SOLENOID CONTROL VALVE V8 - RANGE ROVER CLASSIC - DISCOVERY 1

For me it was mainly caused by higher ratio diffs overcoming the available grip of the drum brake on very steep gradients.

True, and it looks like a classic car than a trials warrior. But, nah I like my arches filled.

Personally IMHO 6.50s are too narrow for a Series unless you like the really odd 50s pram wheel look!😊 I grew up with SATs as the best mud tyre but in truth to run on an off road site then 9.00s or 10.50s are needed to cope with the ruts so I have a set of 8.00 inch wheels waiting for tyres. American sizes are also good but I am not familiar with them.

Good news to advance.

And yet Govs and spec EU want only new cars on the road, presumably so as to keep updating emissions and economy benefits at the cost of recycling by pretending recycling is better than longevity.

I may be completely wrong but all I can think of is either, 1. That the weight of the CV/halfshaft is making a bearing surface out of true so it won't pull back into place? Or 2. That there aren't any shims on the halfshaft to CV and that you have pushed the CV further on to the shaft such that it is stuck?

I tried leather gaiters on my S1, first they filled with mud and water, then they got caught in the lock stop and cut a hole. Finally you cannot look at the ball to check it's condition so I took them off. Interestingly my S1 has been kept in a condensation dripping container for the last 14 years and whilst newly fitted bolts have rusted in weeks my swivel balls are perfect though a bit sweaty.