Escape

I've got a spare seat as well, happy to have you come along!

As long as it's just a couple of Landies on the lowloader and not a main battle tank, it should be OK, right? 😁

Start with the easy checks: is the pedal actually operating the clutch? I.e. can you see the slave push the fork and does it go far enough? I often use a lever to see if there is any more movement possible to fully disengage the clutch. If it's an hydraulic, the fix should be easy, bleeding might do the trick.

Something like this? Seems I wont have a copilot, but tow vehicle secured and trailer shouldn't be a problem. Out with the card to book the ferry...

You could use the top connection, but as it sits right above the butterfly it will be prone to pressure fluctuations so probably not ideal. Usually the FPR is connected to a plenum pick up at the rear. I think the top one is used for the distributor vacuum advance bu I don't have a standard RRC nearby to have a look and verify...

That has become expensive yes...

Me and @elbekko will be there, with the Lightweight and P38. Still need to sort some practical details, like a copilot for me and a tow vehicle + second trailer... With a bit of luck, those will come as a complete package. 🙂 Looking forward to it, even if the preparation to get there is a bit more stressful this year.

- Pic 1: that is a manifold pressure port, what it connect to will depend on the ancillaries and engine management fitted. The 2 other ports to the left are identical, but blocked off in this particular engine because not needed in the previous install. - Pic 2: crank case ventilation, should connect to a similar port on the RH rocker cover, with an L-shaped tube - Pic 3: throttle body heater, only needed to prevent icing up after a cold start in properly cold circumstances. Not needed in most cases (deleted on mine as well) - Pic 4: fuel pressure regulator, yellow threaded connection goes to the filter and fuel pump (supply side), red is the return connection back to the tank, blue is a vacuum connections and need to go the plenum somewhere. The port in pic 1 will do, but usually there is one in the upper plenum that is closer by. - Pic 5: does ring any bells, looks like another manifold connection. As for the V-belts, this picture shows the most common layout (in a pre-serpentine Land Rover): I feel your pain, I've had the same problem when too much time had passed between taking an engine apart and trying to refit everything. Especially if other things have come up in the time between... Greetz, Filip

Don't forget any actuator will also need some space. You could clock the gearbox, so the actuator is on the back though. Just need a good way of routing the cable or whatever. Remember we tried a cable operated freespool on Mouse, and that let go in one of the mudholes at Inor... As for the bumper, you might have a first customer for a second one already. It really looks promising! I'd simplify and add lightness, of course. 🙂

I had a full external cage on my 90. IIRC the rear mounted on inserts bolted to the rear crossmember, front and mid to the rocksliders. There was an internal cross-brace as well, absolutely necessary to give some strength.

LRDirect have a good way of dealing with VAT and import costs, so I continue to use them. I do have the advantage of ordering as a business, might be different for private customers. I know Rimmer Bros offer the same for private customers. I have ordered from France shortly after Brexit (until the regular suppliers got things sorted), but that didn't go well. As above, they have very limited stock so order most from UK anyway, adding to delays and you still pay for the import costs. I wont use them anymore. I do have good experiences with a Belgian company, British LandRover Parts. Their range is not that extensive, but prices are reasonable and shipping is very fast (in Belgium at least).

With regards to crumple zones, I can (unfortunately) confirm even the standard bumper on a P38 is strong enough to bend the front section of the chassis, if you hit something at the wrong angle. IMHO, the bumper only needs to be strong enough to be able to rest it against a tree or rock without risking it bending back into the bodywork. Not to take the force of a proper impact. The standard bumper is a bit flimsy, 3mm should be fine, without adding lots of weight. The winch cradle on my previous P38 was mostly 3mm with 5 or 6mm reinforcements. I still have the remains, as I planned to recreate it for the current one. I should do some measuring, but the design Ben is doing is definitely an alternative to consider. And if we build 2, that would mean halve the R&D costs for each. 🙂

No, all pushfits, the only compression fittings are on the blue line from the compressor to the valve block.

A lot of it is staged of course, but I think it's one of the better car programs out there. My favorite is flippin' bangers. It does seem a lot of them use a Land Rover as a tow vehicle. 😎

Since the rebuild of the Workshop I've been using these. Sorry, no English version but I'm sure the same type will be available from similar suppliers in the UK. They're cheap and do the job, I've bought 3 in the last 5 years, 2 are still in use, the 3rd one is for spares. The plastic cracks after dropping for the umpteenth time and I've had to resolder the battery connection as a result, but at that price can't fault them and don't need to be careful. One traveled home with a customer after being put upside down on the chassis of his Disco, so the magnet is strong enough. He noticed a light underneath when parking up and to his surprise found my lamp. 🙂 We have the same at home for general duty as well. If I buy a new one, it will replace the one at home and that one will live on at the Shop. Circular economics.

If you add a proper tyre inflator to the T-Max style compressort, you do have to be careful not to keep the compressor running with the inflator closed. They do not have a tank so pressure will rapidly rise if no air is used and even though there is (should be) an overpressure valve, the compressor wont like running at maximum pressure for very long.

I have to agree a manual pump is probably a better choice for the kayak. As for electric ones, we're using this one from Vevor, very similar to the big T-max and does a good job. Last Saturday it was used to inflate all tyres on 7 barnfind cars, running from a spare battery. Not big tyres (155R13 and 185R13) or high pressures, but it did make it an easy job. And it cope's just as well with the tyres on the Rangie or those on the car trailer that need 6bar.

I'd start by making sure the fan isn't snagging and everything is turning freely as mentioned above. Even with a working viscous, a stuck fan will put a lot of strain on the water pump, and could be the cause of both the previous failure and the slipping belt.

I'll stick my neck out, I think the long bonnet Defender does have some charm. Must be room for a Jag V12, right? Could make for a great tow car! 😄 On another note, I 'might' have acquired a couple of Matra Bagheeras... One is in very poor shape, crash damage to the front end and of course so rusty it left a layer on the trailer after unloading. But how hard can it be to mate the plastic body to the chassis of an equally rusty Disco or such? 🙃

Maybe we're looking at the wrong component. From your checks and rereading the original post, it seems the box is shifting OK, just not when full throttle is applied. This could be a stuck wastegate with the ECU cutting fuel when boost rises under full throttle. How does the car behave if you lock the box in say 2nd and then floor it?

Start with the easiest: is the oil level correct? Remember you need to check cold, with engine running and after cycling through the gears.

Are those related to the Mini Moke?

I think @Arjan is planning a trip from France to UK to collect some stuff. Not sure if he's taking a trailer and if that would be empty on the way up, but you could ask. Unless you can find a truck with a part load, I fear most will charge for the empty return, so you'll pay for an additional ferry crossing anyway. And that will get expensive...

That reminds me we still need to have a look at the belts on that fancy V8 sitting in the corner...

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/L7.L7G.L7G01.L7G01110/brand/land-rover/ 😉 There's 2 separate diagrams for the old and new style manifold.