mickeyw

I have noticed that aftermarket arms are much looser than original Britax ones that LR use. Also the Britax mirror heads are made of more robust (probably thicker) plastic. The Britax mirror glass itself is twice as thick too, which makes it more tree-resistant. Alas the cheap ones are cheap for a reason.

No money for Arfur Daley here Some good inspiration for repairs on Defendersource https://www.defendersource.com/forum/f48/building-lr-110-front-row-door-frames-pushbutton-doors-73740.html

Thread revival time Now I have an aged 110 CSW, and the other day one of my kids told me her window had fallen down when she tried to close it. Turns out the lift channel was completely fooked, and was hanging out of the bottom of the door, as the lower rail was also crumbled. Lengthy searches brought me to the same realisation, that these lift channels ain't nowhere to be found. Common internet 'advice' is to 'just chop down ones for the front doors'. Alas it's not quite so simple as that. I shall explain below. Comparing old crusty 2nd row channel (top) and a new front window version (bottom). Not quite the 'cut a bit off the end' solution that was being suggested. These two lovely shiny channels are spot welded together, so I drilled these out. And they're apart. Ever wonder why new plated parts go rusty sooner than you'd like? A quick zing with the angry grinder to shorten both parts, and we have this. I cleaned all the developing rust away and painted bare metal before assembly. A few dabs from the TIG, followed by some more paint, and I think this will do the job well. Now to deal with the rest of the rot 'n' grot.

Similarly, I found the build sheet for my old 90 tucked beneath the battery. IIRC it was a dot matrix print out on heavy pink paper. Now given that the truck was 8 years old when I bought it, and that the battery box was not the first place I would have nosed around, I thought it was quite a find

I have a disk and belt sander very similar to that one. I hope yours has more grunt than mine. I daresay knife grinding isn't than arduous a task.

Yep, skin pins hail from the aircraft world. I have a load of Avdel skin pins that were my Dad's, from his days as an RAF engineer.

This ^^^ is close to what I was going to say. Normally I hold a club hammer static against the arm to support it, and wallop the opposite side with my 2lb ball pein. Just hitting with a single hammer sends all the shock loading down the line, and just isn't as effective. Never failed to split one yet

Looks like the weld took to the nut OK? I can't imagine a bell housing bolt is made of anything too fancy or expensive. One thing I learned recently is to weld a washer to the broken bolt first, then weld a nut to the washer. This way the bolt should get the lion's share of the heat on the first weld, and hopefully it'll fuse better. Two heating cycles really ought the make that bolt wake up and come loose.

Oh what disappointment 😕 Looking at it now I'd say it was the 20mm box along the top of the beam. All one sided heat application. I think I'd be inclined to shim the boxes as you suggest, and live with it. It won't affect function, and will save a whole load of time, and probably money. Attempts to straighten it will almost certainly mess up the powder coat. Top job though 👍

Have you seen Colin Furze's BMW hot tub? Might give you some ideas for next time.

Wakey wakey Ross @landroversforever. I seem to remember promises of some fully loaded photos.

Exactly this ^^^ Must get my Bridgeport moved in. Only had it six or seven years...

LEDs can come in many colours, as well as white white with varying intensities is not unusual. In theory I see no reason why you could not have a white emitter with 2 circuits of different brightness.However what products someone has chosen to manufacture for generic automotive use may be more limited.

A quick look a their site, and I can see the suffix letters refer to the brand. 2 things stand out to me: STC234.C8 (note no G in the code) is a Britpart item. The 2 year warranty is also a Britpart thing. I would suggest the STC234G.C8 also comes from them. The fact that they can often supply genuine LR packaged branded parts makes it hard to choose which of their parts you can trust.

When I rebuilt my 4.2 I had it relined due to leakage issues, but was able to reuse the old pistons, albeit with new rings. As advised above, strip, inspect, and replace as required. Make sure the parts come from a reputable source too. I always recommend Turner Engineering in the UK. They're near me, so I've used them a fair bit over the last 20 years. They offer top quality parts, and prices aren't actually that much more than the cheap 'cack' (as Fridge has described it) , especially considering they are parts you can trust. They will happily send bits to Belgium Check them out at www.turnerengineering.co.uk

Looks fantastic Ross. Well done.

Worn trailing arm bushes can give an unhealthy rear-steer effect too. Wear in the chassis bush is easy to see, and I note you say the bushes all look good, but wear at the axle end bushes isn't so visible. Get a big lever or screwdriver between the axle and arm and give it a good waggle. For general wanderiness when loaded, I'd check tyre pressures are high enough.

That's good to know Stephen. I may be into a swivel rebuild later this year. I wouldn't touch unbranded or regular Britpart bearings with a barge pole. The last BP bearing I opened up was full of swarf!!!!

Ross (landroversforever) had a set of Wolf rims banded to suit some 37" tyres. They do look very nice. Hope he will see this and provide info on the company that did the work.

Blingy colours (orange included) = 'hey look at me over here - come and steal me' My tool chests are black.

That looks very similar to my Warco mill, only mine is mounted on a square cabinet with a chip tray. The cupboard under is not especially well fitted out with shelves, but you can get a fair amount in there, just not so well organised.

If I understand you correctly, you have replaced the old square tank with the later, larger capacity under-wing reservoir. Having done this myself, I now enjoy far more powerful screen wash jets. The water actually hits the screen when driving at motorway speeds

I don't know specifically about Stage 1 swivels, but when it comes to seals I always felt that Corteco brand was the one to go for. There are other good names around too, but there are also ones I would avoid, such as Carson for one. Note these are both brands I have first hand experience with, not hearsay.

That's enough trump talk for one week thank you.

1.6 is what I normally use. Sounds like some 2.4 is needed for the big stuff. That last weld looks very tidy. It's not easy to get every one looking like that though, even if you weld all the time.