Mog 404 axles

[elbekko]

@Stellaghoststill want me to measure something, or are Bowie's enough?

[Stellaghost]

2 minutes ago, elbekko said:

@Stellaghoststill want me to measure something, or are Bowie's enough?

 

2 minutes ago, elbekko said:

@Stellaghoststill want me to measure something, or are Bowie's enough?

No I'm fine at the moment if I need anything I will shout regards Stephen

[Stellaghost]

That's the gearbox mounts sorted

Not much hanging below trailing arm brackets

And just for @Bowie69, showing off my 22" of length over your piddly 11"........

Sorry couldn't resist regards Stephen 

[Stellaghost]

Quick question, now that chassis is sitting on axles I guess this is the best time to measure closed prop length due to this position being the point that drive Flanges are closest together??

Regards Stephen 

 

 

 

[Stellaghost]

Started building single link crossmember today, made some decent progress but still a wee bit more to do

First had to open a washer out a bit

Then cut another Bush in half

Previously rolled cups Welded onto a piece of 12mm flat plate

Then some 4" x 2" x 1/4" box section

Cut up where needed

Then joined stuff together 

Bushes fitted

Then clevis, not tightened up yet but you get the idea about the slight cushioning effect 

Last of all roughly where it will fit and managing to keep it above diff and sump, however I need to cut a section out to allow for prop shaft movement and increase the height of the ends for welding onto the side pieces

regards Stephen 

[landroversforever]

Remind me again Stephen, what’s going into the clevis? Is it a spherical joint?

[Stellaghost]

3 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Remind me again Stephen, what’s going into the clevis? Is it a spherical joint?

That's right Ross a 30mm spherical joint regards Stephen

[Stellaghost]

Sorted, cannot cut for the prop as yet will need to see what's what on full droop

Regards Stephen 

 

[dangerous doug]

you going to brace that further back to the chassis?could incorporate a skid plate to it too

[Stellaghost]

26 minutes ago, dangerous doug said:

you going to brace that further back to the chassis?could incorporate a skid plate to it too

Yes, will take a look at that @dangerous doug regards Stephen

[Stellaghost]

What angle do wide angle props to go ?

My double cab has a wide angle prop, but the wide angle seems to be one end ( diff ) only, is this right, bit of a funny one if it is.

I had bought double carden props for Sid but looks like they will be useless so I don't want to make that mistake again regards Stephen

[Wytze]

24 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

What angle do wide angle props to go ?

My double cab has a wide angle prop, but the wide angle seems to be one end ( diff ) only, is this right, bit of a funny one if it is.

I had bought double carden props for Sid but looks like they will be useless so I don't want to make that mistake again regards Stephen

I think mine are 30°  at both ends.  with a 110 mm slider.  Phillip and morris ones

[landroversforever]

3 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

That's right Ross a 30mm spherical joint regards Stephen

In that case I think you'll want something to stop the clevis rotating in the bush. Otherwise you could end up with something like the situation of using a rotatable NATO trailer with the hitch on the car also unlocked.

[Stellaghost]

6 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

In that case I think you'll want something to stop the clevis rotating in the bush. Otherwise you could end up with something like the situation of using a rotatable NATO trailer with the hitch on the car also unlocked.

Bush is a hard push on clevis shaft and once clevis thread is into nyloc on nut it will be very very tight, again all things to look at once I'm flexing suspension, may have plenty of mods to do once cycling axles, hope not though regards Stephen

[muddy]

Might I suggest a belly plate from the new x member covering the bottom of the chassis rails and the trailing arm ears. 

[Ed Poore]

@Stellaghost I know one of our neighbours up in the Highlands was selling some forestry belly plating for a big Valtra, probably suitable for this.

He wanted it off and was introduced to another member of the deer management group - the chap buying it asked if he should send a trailer around and the owner said nope. I'll bring the tractor around, we'll block it all up and drive the tractor off it then you drive your tractor onto it. Turns out the armoring came in at just shy of 10 tonnes...  Chap didn't know what possessed the "purchasing department" in buying such heavy duty armoring, the tractor struggled to go anywhere with any useful load.

[steve b]

10 tonnes ??? just how thick was it ??? 

I've made armour for forestry tractors but never needed more than one forklift to move it 

Back to the build - the cushion joint and trunnion look great Stephen . 

Steve

[Ed Poore]

7 minutes ago, steve b said:

10 tonnes ??? just how thick was it ??? 

I've made armour for forestry tractors but never needed more than one forklift to move it 

I think the main belly plate was 3" . They acquired the tractor I think as a job lot and no one had any clue why such stupidly thick armour had been used.

[De Ranged]

2 hours ago, Ed Poore said:

I think the main belly plate was 3" . They acquired the tractor I think as a job lot and no one had any clue why such stupidly thick armour had been used.

3" is a little bit of overkill lol.... I've used inch and bent it on stumps 
When I was logging it was common for a 30ton digger to wiegh in at 45 ton or more due to the logging package 
HD high tensil plate belly plates, High and wide track frames (to get over stumps), The cabs are ROPS,FOPS etc the door is normally that heavy it needs a hydralic ram to open and close it, Catwalks around both sides to create a bumper, Side doors often from 10mm bis

If its working out in the bush instead of the skid then add another couple of ton for a engine cover , ram guards etc 

[Stellaghost]

On 8/19/2022 at 3:19 PM, muddy said:

Might I suggest a belly plate from the new x member covering the bottom of the chassis rails and the trailing arm ears. 

What material would you suggest??, I looked at aluminium but nearly £200 for a piece 1m x 1m, obviously I have some mild steel plate 6mm and I may have some 4 or 5mm stainless plate, my preference was aluminium purely to save weight I could also make a laminated skid plate as I have enough 3mm aluminium to put two or three sheets together.

Of course there is always the " don't bother" option

Regards Stephen

[Ed Poore]

I'd go with the don't bother approach unless you're going to be doing really silly stuff. I mean you're going to be sitting much higher than most Land Rovers are anyway - as long as you don't hit anything at speed then you're unlikely to do any damage.

The Southdown guards were 6mm steel but I reckon you could go thinner with some bracing (weld some angle over the top to triangulate it etc). Problem with a belly place is you'd need to be religious about cleaning it out - there's a reason why Land Rover have lots of holes in their chassis (well before they start getting rusty). Dad's Shogun has rotted out and if you look at it the "drain" holes are tiny compared to LR ones and also quite often not in the lowest spot on the chassis .

People also seem to have this misconception that aluminium is "lighter" than steel. Yes it's density is lower but if you build the same structure in aluminium as you do in steel then you need substantially thicker aluminium to achieve the same strength, where aluminium allows you to play games is by making lighter structures through clever designs / bracing / triangulation etc.

[miketomcat]

What he said ^^^^

The only guard I have on the ibex is a tank guard and that's because it doubles as a removable tow bar arrangement, the tank it's self is 3mm stainless so it doesn't need it.

Mike

[elbekko]

56 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

as long as you don't hit anything at speed then you're unlikely to do any damage.

My transfer box would like a word

[muddy]

Id say 3-6mm depending how rocky your terrain is. I had to weld my chassis bottoms up at least once a year do to peeling them open on rocks or replacing bits of trailing arm ears where they had bent up badly, it doesn't need to survive a landmine and it doesn't matter if it dents its just to stop you smashing the bottom to bits by catching it on stuff, @miketomcat didnt you once smash a PTO drop box off? 

Two plain hinges at the front (20mm? bar?) and a M16 on each side just infront of the rear arms would make it hinge down to wash out. This all depends entirely on how rough you intend to be I completely understand but I think Sid is likely to see more abuse than Mikes ibex or Eds 110 for example?

[landroversforever]

Trouble with Ali as a skid plate is it’s soft and grippy. Lighter weight steel supports with an HDPE seems to work well on some of the challenge trucks.