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To finish my mixed bag today I started building manual actuators for my diff locks, purely as backup because my concentric ones are a real pain to strip out, like just about whole axle to strip type of pain

Not finished yet but you get the idea20230924_160826.thumb.jpg.ec045ff95c88cad53d3ede7609464014.jpg

 

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Regards Stephen 

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You don't need the fuse-box to be honest - it's only a few relays and fuses you need so it's probably easier to start from scratch. Hopefully you've got the three plugs that go into the ECU, there's then the fourth (right most I think with the text facing up) which is where you do your handful of wires to tell the ECU it's cranking etc., then there's a couple of wires that go into the MEH (Main Engine Harness) connector (big bloody thing on the engine wiring loom) to provide power to the igniters, etc.

From my notes - it's 4 relays (EFI, Ignition, Circuit Opening and Fuel Pump) and 8 fuses (start, battery, AFM, ECU ignition, coils, injectors, ECU battery, fuel pump).

I didn't touch the engine wiring harness on mine but I did have the whole vehicle loom etc., so was able to steal connectors off the other end to make it all plug and play.

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I can't fully remember (10 years ago) when we put a 1UZ in a mates Hilux.

It needed a hall sensor on the tail shaft telling the ECU to increase idle as the vehicle came to a stop or it kept stalling at junctions/lights etc.

Engine was from a Soarer, the sensor was in/on the gearbox that we didn't have. 

We never did fit one! I taught him to heel n toe to prevent it cutting out...🤪

Cheers

Dave

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9 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said:

I can't fully remember (10 years ago) when we put a 1UZ in a mates Hilux.

It needed a hall sensor on the tail shaft telling the ECU to increase idle as the vehicle came to a stop or it kept stalling at junctions/lights etc.

Engine was from a Soarer, the sensor was in/on the gearbox that we didn't have. 

We never did fit one! I taught him to heel n toe to prevent it cutting out...🤪

Cheers

Dave

That's actually really interesting for unrelated reasons. @Escape, it might be the Jag's issue after all.

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Stripped a bit more off engine

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heat shields will go back on unless i make some lighter ones, the two pipes I'm assuming are for the hydraulically driven cooling fan and i certainly dont need the aircon pump

two exhaust studs that were already in are being a pain as they will no budge even with heat, however im not overly bothered because i will be removing the rather large Flanges and replace them with something a bit more streamlined 

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oil filter housing has water cooling pipes attached to it never seen that before, does the remote filter set up fix on in place of the filter or is the whole casting to remove ?

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regards Stephen 

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It is possible to replace the oil filter casting completely. You can buy/make parts for this. I used an adapter that screwed onto where the oil filter would go retaining the water cooling parts. Couple of examples.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234749471799?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=AJ-LbweVTqi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=3n6k2g6WS4y&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I used something like this (different thread size)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402154104603?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=63akh65fR-a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=3n6k2g6WS4y&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

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This is the sort of thing that is available: 

Lexus-Toyota V8 Oil Relocation Adaptor Plate – Lextreme

There are ali versions out there, but now you have seen it you have probably already finished making it....

The pipes going to the filter housing act as a cooler, using the radiator water, much like LR (and many other manufacturers) do with autoboxes.

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11 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

Is the oil cooling required or can it be removed ?

Regards Stephen

I doubt you will really need it, as @fridgefreezer will tell you, get some temperature stickers and then only fit a cooler if you have to.

Saves weight, complication, and leaks!

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5 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Is the oil cooling required or can it be removed ?

Regards Stephen

I think in your/Sid's situation it's probably not required. A good friend of mine who I respect a lot when it comes to engine / engineering questions like this advised that for my use common cases (I.e. Long distance towing with heavy loads) it's probably worth keeping. There isn't really space unless you lop out the chassis so would have to be oil to cooler somewhere else like on a Tdi or a big brush (or similar) cooler like the autos had.

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Hey Stephan, 

On my "project" (build thread coming soon....)🤣

I'm keeping the A/C compressor.

Just needs a strip n lube to be a high performance air compressor at the flick of a switch.

Far superior to any 12 volt jobbie.

Going to use a D1 transmission crossmember as receiver tank....

Cheers

Dave

 

GEARBOX CROSSMEMBER DEFENDER V8 NAS GALV, PLI243, NTC9241 | Rovers ...

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6 minutes ago, TD5toV8110 said:

Hey Stephan, 

On my "project" (build thread coming soon....)🤣

I'm keeping the A/C compressor.

Just needs a strip n lube to be a high performance air compressor at the flick of a switch.

Far superior to any 12 volt jobbie.

Going to use a D1 transmission crossmember as receiver tank....

Cheers

Dave

 

GEARBOX CROSSMEMBER DEFENDER V8 NAS GALV, PLI243, NTC9241 | Rovers ...

Nice

Already running an ARB compressor, may put alternator in that spot depending how it all eventually fits in chassis

Regards Stephen

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9 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said:

Hey Stephan, 

On my "project" (build thread coming soon....)🤣

I'm keeping the A/C compressor.

Just needs a strip n lube to be a high performance air compressor at the flick of a switch.

Far superior to any 12 volt jobbie.

Going to use a D1 transmission crossmember as receiver tank....

Cheers

Dave

 

GEARBOX CROSSMEMBER DEFENDER V8 NAS GALV, PLI243, NTC9241 | Rovers ...

Come back to this Dave..

Your fabrication, in your own words might be carp ( not sure I believe this ) however the idea of using the D1 crossmember is brilliant, this is exactly why build threads are important, every thread has a great idea that could benefit somebody, even if it is at some point in the future 

Really can't wait to start reading your build thread..

Regards Stephen 

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Having just done a budget OBA install using a Jag air suspension tank I'm not sure I'd want to be using anything that's not a pressure vessel as a pressure vessel - first run-up watching that gauge climb makes you acutely aware of your own mortality :ph34r: Especially the x-member which is hanging down asking to be clonked on a rock.

There's a lot of decent air tanks falling off modern cars these days and ending up on ebay for peanuts, all shapes and sizes. Although as @simonr would likely point out, standard issue coke bottles are surprisingly resilient and cheap!

 

On the oil filter thingy, what's the block like where it bolts on - can you tap out the holes and thread hydraulic fittings in? That would give you an easy route to a remote filter wherever you wanted it.

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35 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

 @simonr

 

On the oil filter thingy, what's the block like where it bolts on - can you tap out the holes and thread hydraulic fittings in? That would give you an easy route to a remote filter wherever you wanted it.

Already made the plate to bolt on, have not tapped it out as yet as I don't know the thread size I'm using for the hydraulic pipes

Regards Stephen 

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43 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Having just done a budget OBA install using a Jag air suspension tank I'm not sure I'd want to be using anything that's not a pressure vessel as a pressure vessel - first run-up watching that gauge climb makes you acutely aware of your own mortality :ph34r: Especially the x-member which is hanging down asking to be clonked on a rock.

Agreed, wouldn't want something going very bang underneath, and also losing air pressure at the same time.

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