Jump to content

Sheared bolts


Recommended Posts

Hi Folks,

As part of our engine bay strip down, removed the power steering pipes that run across the inside of the front chassis cross member.

Typically the bolts that hold the brackets in place sheared off. Both of them! Grrr..

Wondering how best to resolve this. Suspect drilling them out? Ideally would like to fit the brackets back.

Look like they are rivnuts in the chassis?

Simon...

IMG_4178.JPG

IMG_4179.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They’re rivnuts yes, so if you grind them flat to the chassis you’ll be able to knock them inside the box section, where you can fish around with a magnet to remove them if so inclined. Then fit new rivnuts in the holes.

Alternatively just drill new holes alongside and fit new rivnuts in those, there is some flexibility in where the clamps go along your PAS pipes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Land Rover gods must have been on my side today. Ground the bolts and heads down as much as I dared.

Then went to centre punch the bolts ready for a drill out. Pop - the rivnuts pushed straight through into the cross member.

Fished them out with a magnet. Super pleased. Hopefully some new rivnuts will go in nicely when putting all back together.

Thanks for the tips folks.

Simon...

IMG_4180.JPG

IMG_4181.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had this issue when replacing my power steering pipes. Mine didn't snap off they just spun in place and it was quite hard to grind the heads off without damaging anything. One of the curved metal tabs was fine and bent back into shap ok but the other was toast. I ended up securing one side with those rubber covered p-clips and tek screws which seems to have held up ok.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@western good instructions, would be even better with an extra nut on the bolt. If you turn that in while holding the bolthead steady, there is very little chance of the rivnut rotating in the hole. Especially important if using existing holes. It's a bit more complicated, requiring 3 spanners, but you can hold the spanners on both the drilled out nut and the bolt with the same hand, ideally with a ratchet spanner on the extra nut to pull everything tight. I have noticed, doing it like this, the thread in the nut will strip after some usage.

Filip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When buying replacement rivnuts try to get the ones with the large flanged head so they don't pull through and you can get some proper squish on them.

Also, proper rivnut tools are cheap these days and honestly they're so much easier than faffing around with nuts & bolts unless you're in a really tight space where the tool can't get.

A smear of grease/coppaslip on the threads before setting helps too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/28/2021 at 9:06 AM, Sharp said:

I had this issue when replacing my power steering pipes. Mine didn't snap off they just spun in place and it was quite hard to grind the heads off without damaging anything. One of the curved metal tabs was fine and bent back into shap ok but the other was toast. I ended up securing one side with those rubber covered p-clips and tek screws which seems to have held up ok.

I usually file a small triangle in the side of the drilled hole with a file so that when the rivnut squeezes shut it grips in this recess, this is often enough to stop it spinning when undoing years later

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, L19MUD said:

I usually file a small triangle in the side of the drilled hole with a file so that when the rivnut squeezes shut it grips in this recess, this is often enough to stop it spinning when undoing years later

I also do this but add some Araldite to help keep the nut from turning

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know if longer rivnuts are available?  The type I have in my seat base for the seat rails don’t crush down enough as the seat base is multi-layered near the corners and is too thick, but longer rivnuts would work if they exist.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, Snagger said:

Does anyone know if longer rivnuts are available?  The type I have in my seat base for the seat rails don’t crush down enough as the seat base is multi-layered near the corners and is too thick, but longer rivnuts would work if they exist.

Pretty sure they're available for a range of panel thicknesses although may not be commonly sold - Zygology might have a better range than the average.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Snagger said:

Does anyone know if longer rivnuts are available?  The type I have in my seat base for the seat rails don’t crush down enough as the seat base is multi-layered near the corners and is too thick, but longer rivnuts would work if they exist.

Have a look here https://www.rivets.co.za/rivnuts.php

I bought some from https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rivnuts-Stainless-Steel-Knurled-Head-Threaded-Rivet-Nuts-Blind-Nutserts-M4-M10/253617892695

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Also, proper rivnut tools are cheap these days .....

Oh yes, where?  If you want anything not made out of Chinesium and capable of setting stainless steel M10 rivnuts, you have to spend serious beer tokens.  I bent the 20" handles on my Chinesium one when I tried to set only an M8 rivnut, although advertised for "up to M12" and I now faff around with spanners and get the job done.

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Troll Hunter said:

Oh yes, where?  If you want anything not made out of Chinesium and capable of setting stainless steel M10 rivnuts, you have to spend serious beer tokens.  I bent the 20" handles on my Chinesium one when I tried to set only an M8 rivnut, although advertised for "up to M12" and I now faff around with spanners and get the job done.

Mike

Stainless M10 is at the upper end of rivnut strain though, you don't see a lot of rivnuts bigger than that - I mostly do M6 and M8 mild & ali for brackets and mounts etc. and the proper tool does make life a lot easier and faster for the sake of ~£50.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 03/03/2021 at 7:28 AM, Troll Hunter said:

I now faff around with spanners and get the job done.

I used to do this until I had a job which needed 30 odd rivnuts putting in. 

I ended up buying the memfast one which was twice the price of others but it is very small so fits where others don't. Also it's made in Britain - rare enough in itself these days.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Troll Hunter said:

I like it, but at over GBP100 by the time I get it (shipping and customs), it's out of my league.  I'll keep using spanners for the time being.

I'm sure they have similar tools on your side of the pond for similar (local) prices.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy