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Hyd Winch question


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Was just pondering fitting a hydraulic winch to replace my broken 13500 electric.

One option is a Warrior, with the following specs. I have a power pack which has 200b 5l/min

Now i presume pressure gives the pull force and flow gives the line speed?

So will my power pack give the full 10000 but at a slow line speed?

 

2024-05-02 08_19_30-Warrior 1NH Hydraulic Winch _ Warrior Winches and 8 more pages - Personal - Micr.png

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Short answer is yes , but it would be painfully slow - by power pack I assume you mean a 12v pump and tank similar to a tipper lift system?

These are generally designed to run for short periods so driving a winch could fry the 12v motor.

Using the PAS pump would be more practical but a proper 200bar hyd pump driven by belt(s) off the engine even better

Steve

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Posted (edited)

Yeah will ponder. I have no room for an engine pump. PTO is possible but finding the adaptor for my volvo transfer case is not easy.

I should mention its not for competition, but rather self-rescue on my overlander. I could live with slow if it gets me out eventually.

Edited by HoSS
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As much as I like hydraulic winches, I don't see the point in fitting one if you need an electric power pack to drive it. That just adds cost, complexity and losses (negating the advantage of a hydraulic winch). For occasional self-rescue, just fit a cheap electric one. Or fix the one you have.

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4 hours ago, HoSS said:

I should mention its not for competition, but rather self-rescue on my overlander. I could live with slow if it gets me out eventually.

In that case you could go the old MileMarker route of using a power steering pump - slow as hell but WILL pull you out eventually and there's a million shapes & sizes to choose from.

As Ben says, absolutely zero benefit in using a 12v power pack to make hydraulic power to turn a winch - just fit an electric winch and save space & power & cost.

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50 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

As Ben says, absolutely zero benefit in using a 12v power pack to make hydraulic power to turn a winch - just fit an electric winch and save space & power & cost.

Except I do already have the powerpack on the truck, as it lifts the cab & body jacks.

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12 minutes ago, HoSS said:

Except I do already have the powerpack on the truck, as it lifts the cab & body jacks.

Yeah but an electric winch is the same size as a hydraulic, the cables are easier to connect, route and replace than hoses. It'll be faster and possible more powerful in this instance and cheaper. You'll already have battery's too.

Mike

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1 minute ago, miketomcat said:

Yeah but an electric winch is the same size as a hydraulic, the cables are easier to connect, route and replace than hoses. It'll be faster and possible more powerful in this instance and cheaper. You'll already have battery's too.

Mike

Yep, all good points. There were 2 factors that got me looking at it. 1) a cheap BNIB Warrior hydo was up for sale. 2) i have very limited space for the winch and some electrics didnt fit, the hydro has a smaller 'motor'. But since the deal has disappeared and the comments above, i'll replace with lecky.

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Escape said:

 Or fix the one you have.

Tried that, its a T-MAX 13500, brake spring is all twisted up, cant find a replacement even with my aussie contact trying to call T-MAX HQ.

Edited by HoSS
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6 hours ago, miketomcat said:

Yeah but an electric winch is the same size as a hydraulic, the cables are easier to connect, route and replace than hoses. It'll be faster and possible more powerful in this instance and cheaper. You'll already have battery's too.

Mike

All true, but once you have an hydraulic winch with proper pump, you never want another one again!

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52 minutes ago, henk said:

All true, but once you have an hydraulic winch with proper pump, you never want another one again!

I'd rather have a PTO driven winch, I love our fairy 525. I wish I could have one on the ibex. Having said that I've had a situation where I was so low on fuel and at an angle that the engine died. It was only because we had an electric winch we were able to get level again and re-start the engine. Never would have made it out otherwise.

Mike

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@nickwilliams has a hydraulic winch on his 90. I don't know the details except that it has a proper control set-up, with analogue valves. This gives perfect and precise control at variable pull rates.

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The main advantage of a hydraulic setup is it will pull all day without a breaking sweat whereas electric (standard setup) won't. Electric doesn't need a running engine as Mike said, and is just far more flexible.

I'm quite keen on the hydraulic for the 6x6 because most of the time I've used the winch has been for pulling trees etc., at my parents farm and around our place. It will have a slightly unusual hydraulic setup on it as it will have its own tank based system for running the tipper body etc., but it will also have changeover valves so that it can power the cherry picker when that is mounted. That has it's own hydraulic tank because of the volume required.

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On 5/3/2024 at 7:53 AM, HoSS said:

Yeah will ponder. I have no room for an engine pump. PTO is possible but finding the adaptor for my volvo transfer case is not easy.

I should mention its not for competition, but rather self-rescue on my overlander. I could live with slow if it gets me out eventually.

The volvo adaptor is easy: https://custom4x4parts.com/product/direct-mount-pto-kit-for-volvo-c303/

I would be inclined to not have the hydropack and use the PAS for these functions. Granted, you want to be able to tilt the cab if the engine stops running, but it is something else that you have to carry around and can go wrong.

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Before this thread descends into an electric Vs acoustic bun fight I would say that in your situation you may as well fit electric, hydraulic has a more compact motor but the plumbing & valves etc. are very chunky (and heavy) compared to tucking a solenoid pack somewhere, given this is for occasional self-recovery not winching competitions.

Only exception is if you bit the bullet and replaced the power pack with an actual PTO or crank-driven setup that powered everything from one unit so it saves space & weight and simplifies a few things - I'm a big fan of simplicity in vehicles especially if you're going overland in one. It's very easy to add everything you can think of and end up with a heavy complicated and unreliable vehicle that's hard to fix, it's far harder to remove things, "simplify and add lightness"...

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On 5/3/2024 at 5:38 PM, HoSS said:

Tried that, its a T-MAX 13500, brake spring is all twisted up, cant find a replacement even with my aussie contact trying to call T-MAX HQ.

T Max are a nightmare to get spares for - especially brake parts

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When I was building overland vehicles for folk, I would always suggest that they didn't fit a winch. Not only does this make you think before you drive something, it also stops you being the poor schmuck who recovers vehicles for other folk, and it reduces weight. I would never fit a hydraulic winch to an overland vehicle, simply for the reasons Fridge so articulately point s out. 

If you have to fit a winch, buy a s/h X9, fit a BOW 1 on it, give me a shout for a new motor to shaft connector (I have the last few), strip it, clean it, replace the motor bearings, be amazed at the gear set. The build a front and rear connector with added Atkinson connectors and Bob's you mum's brother. There's a reason these were Toyota's factor fit winches. With a Bow 1 you'll have a stall of around 16,000lbs, yet it's light and easy to shift around

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17 hours ago, Nonimouse said:

If you have to fit a winch, buy a s/h X9, fit a BOW 1 on it, give me a shout for a new motor to shaft connector (I have the last few), strip it, clean it, replace the motor bearings, be amazed at the gear set.

Tempted to dust off my old X9 with that recommendation!

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7 hours ago, Blanco said:

Tempted to dust off my old X9 with that recommendation!

Worth it.  They are such an excellent workhorse, geared right, not too fast, not too slow, easy to service. Bearings are cheap for good quality.

I have a spare and enough spares to build another, but as my 'daily driver' is a G10 Plus, I've been thinking of making my own G16 Plus, with improved chassis and a deeper drum

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