Hybrid_From_Hell Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Hindhead V8 Lovelyness No you can't have my Simex Steve, nice try ........ Enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 That's better Can still hear the Simex howl too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 I like to hear my carbon footprint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Does your boat sound as nice? Not quite, but a 150 E-TEC at full moo sounds pretty good all the same. I nearly called my boat Carbon Footprint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 All I got when I went through was tire noise, these days all I get is the bl**dy manifold blowing... need someone following behind in a prius with a microphone! (Hey, we might have found a valid use for a prius!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_s Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 havent you got a trailer you can sit someone on behind you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Hey! You finally got it done! Congratulations! I only check this thread every few months since nothing ever seems to get done fabrication always takes longer than you think. Even after all these years I'm still far too optimistic about how long it will take when I go to make something. That's a fantastic V8 sound and I have the ultimate quote . . . this just in from my wife as I was watching the videos . . . "You guys are pathetic!" If that isn't a compliment, well, I don't know what could be. I usually drive my worn-out-cammed 3.5 with 2.5" exhaust Rangie auto in first gear around town just to hear the engine rev, so she knows what she's talking about. You just know that when a wife says something like that about Landies then you must be doing it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 10, 2022 Author Share Posted August 10, 2022 I had to find this thread today for someone with a similar engine and similar woes. Now I have I'll do an update on all the other mods and tweaks done to it over the last 9 years ... as it has evolved loads more than when 1st finished ! Nige 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 10, 2022 Share Posted August 10, 2022 Damn! Has it really been 9 years since this happened? Haven't you broken it yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mickeyw Posted August 10, 2022 Popular Post Share Posted August 10, 2022 Just now, CwazyWabbit said: Damn! Has it really been 9 years since this happened? Haven't you broken it yet? You can't break stuff when you don't use it 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 Well, 14 years later and its been tweaked and added to over those years .......... I still get asked a lot about this, so here is an update ! Road use - all was fine, off road and it was a pig to keep cool - the issue is the classic one, when you have the front buried in mud and goo, and are working the engine hard the seriously hot ait can't get out, and this thing would go from normal heat to too f hot in a very short time ..........as I really didn't want to cook it, and wnated to have the engine cooling under control a series of efforts were made to help get things sorted... As a guide, the target temps was 80-85 degreees, this according to Jon Eales is the bang on temp for any Rover V8 exotic or not, under 80 is too coll, anything over 85 can be an issue as it can then jump super quickly (as mine did) getting out of control super fast, and at 100 things can easily start being badly damaged. Mine could hit 100 in seconds when worked hard .............. so, the battle was on ............... These may help others, The 1st was adding louvres to the bonnet, this made some difference but not enough ... it worked as off road you could not hold your hand over them when things got toasty Sort of worked , nowhere near enough ............. prob dropped 5 degrees or more accurately kept it from the 100 mark "A Bit Longer" .............. After much research and deciding that I needed a bigger radiator, and a chat to Mr Eales the next was a custom made radiator from alisport, nearly required a kidney, but this did make quite a serious change The alisport radiator also has a full width HUGE oil cooler, JE said cooling Oil AND Water makes a vast difference to just trying to control the water, also antifreeze mix ratio is key too, too much AF works less well.. So, I x Alisport Custom full width rad, with huge oil cooler, and twin SPAL fans built in on rear to custom shroud... This did make a fair difference probably another 8 degrees off, but still could hit 100 but took quite a longer time, so more was required. Another chat with JE and he suggested adding a Summit Racing fix bladed engine fan, I also decided (as I bloody sold them) to take the water pump off and not only machine up the adapter for the new fan, but to remove the impeller and fit one of my restrictor plates and remove the thermostat - I used the biggest in the set at 22mm being the maximum you should consider using to avoid cavitation - which will damage engines) Another 5 degrees maybe, and a little longer to hitting 100 which still was the case, I could work it hard for longer, but then it would say "Enough" and heat would jump to 95 then again if not backed off pretty sharpish, 100 + ..... Enter An electric water pump - Davis Craig EWP150 : https://www.t7design.co.uk/ewp150-davies-craig-electric-water-pump-alloy-12v-8060.html Tricky t see, its plumbing (nightmare) under drive wings front area ... This made a significant change, it didn't drop the temps as such, but helped control, faster warm up from cold vs without as it will shut and open to aid warm up, also on shutting down it stays running on after cooling so avioded the issue of temps going UP when you switched off. BUT It still could get the engine to stay less than 95 when worked hard, and on a really hot day ....that would jump to over 100 at times. The in board controller is superb as it has a alarm setting and you can see exactly what temps are there, but more was needed for hard mud plugging times if I wanted to not have the over heating concern at all. So, another 2 x High capacity Pusher SPAL fans were bought, and added now to the FRONT of the radiator, again JE told me something I never knew - front Pushers are more powerful than rear Pullers ! - I didn't believe him so looked at the SPAL data sheets - he is right So, 2 x spals mounted on the front, thats now 4 x spals and these are on either "Auto thermostatic switches" - or I can run "Off" or "Perm ON" And then ...finally with Custom Rad, Oil Cooler, 4 x SPALS, fixed engine fan, and the biggest EWP150 and the louvres - its sorted............... The controller in cab now rarely if ever - even seriously hot days ever goes much above 88 degrees, for road I switch all 4 x fans to auto and they come on (the 2 x rears are set to differing on / off ranges to fronts) and don't stay on long at all, its been a battle (and not excatly cheap either) lots of time researching and the result is worth it If you have engine over heating control issues maybe this little lot above might help Still gives me a grin everytime I hit the loud button Nige 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 I still wonder how effective a fan on the underside of the bonnet would be at pulling hot air up and out the louvres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 25 minutes ago, landroversforever said: I still wonder how effective a fan on the underside of the bonnet would be at pulling hot air up and out the louvres. It would but Bonnet has 30mm between underside and huge Jed plenum 🤦♂️😂😂😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 Ah of course. what about one of these on the bonnet?? 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 It's a good way to steam up the windscreen -ask me how I know..... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 I didn’t realise push fans were stronger … wonder why that is 🤔 I always worried that a push fan stopped airflow hitting the radiator, by literally blocking it in front of the radiator (rather than behind it) … but I guess they both really just divert air around themselves ? I still have a Spal push fan to go on my 80” for similar reasons (overheating on hot off road days) - push simply because there is no space to fit it behind the radiator. I’m encouraged now by how effective this might be. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 I can't help but think there's some optimisation to be done here - mouse was running a single mid-size universal rad from Summit and a reasonably decent single puller fan, and that was an LS pushing more HP than almost any Rover V8 and being worked hard at low speed by a lead-footed idiot Only big difference is the rad was rear-mounted so didn't get full of crud. I don't know if Nige's lump makes more heat just because of how highly tweaked it is, I would think in theory most of the time it should not be making any more heat than any other V8 doing the same amount of work. I'm also quite curious about the target temperatures, 85 seems quite low (maybe optimal for racing?) given that the stock stat fitted to most stuff is 88deg which isn't even fully open till 92 ish with fans coming on somewhat above that. 100deg is not a bad temp for a pressurised cooling system after all. Given the way this stuff works every degree cooler you try and run it means dumping a LOT more heat but also every degree cooler means the temperature difference from the rad to the air is lower and thus it's less efficient at transferring heat. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 I must admit I don't buy the pusher being more powerful bit. I think in this application of a fairly well blocked up engine bay that they're just helping get more air pushed in. Would also be interested to hear more on the temp choice too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 Not ideal... but I'd try with the pusher fans off, and pull the bonnet off. I'd be willing to bet the cooling issues are more about getting the air out of the engine bay than needing another fan on the front of the rad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 On 8/4/2024 at 11:34 AM, Hybrid_From_Hell said: It would but Bonnet has 30mm between underside and huge Jed plenum 🤦♂️😂😂😂 Put the fan on top of the bonnet, disguised as a spare wheel. Cut the middle out of a wheel and fit the fan in there. You could even cut a wheel size hole in the bonnet underneath. Cover the "spare wheel" when not required with a hard type cover to keep water out. Who would ever know ? Does not even need to be same size as the ones on the vehicle, for that "space saver" look, so it doesn't obstruct vision. Your very own cooling tower ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 If you're disguising it as the spare wheel imagine the size of fan you could put there! Could end up like that era of F1 cars where they used a fan to stick them down to the track 😆 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 On 8/5/2024 at 3:30 PM, FridgeFreezer said: I can't help but think there's some optimisation to be done here - mouse was running a single mid-size universal rad from Summit and a reasonably decent single puller fan, and that was an LS pushing more HP than almost any Rover V8 and being worked hard at low speed by a lead-footed idiot Only big difference is the rad was rear-mounted so didn't get full of crud. I don't know if Nige's lump makes more heat just because of how highly tweaked it is, I would think in theory most of the time it should not be making any more heat than any other V8 doing the same amount of work. I'm also quite curious about the target temperatures, 85 seems quite low (maybe optimal for racing?) given that the stock stat fitted to most stuff is 88deg which isn't even fully open till 92 ish with fans coming on somewhat above that. 100deg is not a bad temp for a pressurised cooling system after all. Given the way this stuff works every degree cooler you try and run it means dumping a LOT more heat but also every degree cooler means the temperature difference from the rad to the air is lower and thus it's less efficient at transferring heat. It must be the safety clogs he wears affecting pedal control. 😜 Would ceramic coating or glass mat wrapping the manifolds not help temperatures a lot? I think it’d be far better to have passive systems reduce the heat getting into the engine bay than adding active systems to try to remove more., if they work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 On 8/5/2024 at 3:36 PM, landroversforever said: I must admit I don't buy the pusher being more powerful bit. I think in this application of a fairly well blocked up engine bay that they're just helping get more air pushed in. Would also be interested to hear more on the temp choice too. I’m not convinced either. In theory, a pusher will be sited in dense ram air and will have plenty of air to impinge on, while a puller will sit in thinner air because of the rad airflow restriction, and a fan in thinner air is less efficient. How much effect it has in practice I wouldn’t want to guess at. Another potential benefit of a pusher is that being sited in front of the rad, it will act like a slinger to keep mud out of the radius of the fan, so would prevent dried mud from clogging the airway. But on the flip side, that means it’d also prevent rain from moistening the outside of the rad, the evaporation of which would significantly improve rad performance. They strike me as hypothetical arguments more than practical, the biggest benefit being in choosing the puller or pusher based on which site allows the fan with the largest airflow based on motor and rotor dimensions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 1 hour ago, Snagger said: It must be the safety clogs he wears affecting pedal control. 😜 Would ceramic coating or glass mat wrapping the manifolds not help temperatures a lot? I think it’d be far better to have passive systems reduce the heat getting into the engine bay than adding active systems to try to remove more., if they work. Not glass mat on a offroader IMO - but ceramic coating for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 8 Share Posted August 8 14 hours ago, landroversforever said: Not glass mat on a offroader IMO Mine too - been there, done that, never again. Makes my hands itch just thinking about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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