The V8 Porn Rebuild Thread

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Erm

"ooops"

So, decided to cut off all the mountings done yesterday, the tube brace means all sorts of things no longer fited

Also had a prob with the grill, so thats been chopped about, new brackets and moved forwards as well

New Rad "Steadys" are going to now come off the Brace Tube and not the sides. Not in a great mood today

and the 1985 90 looks like a late A/C front (Challenge) end

Ho hum - win some and lose some.....

Have sussed the M22 fit rad swithces for the fans, they are on the order list for Monday ...

But still a fair bit to finish having gone backwards !

Nige

[steve200TDi]

Ok, Ok, Ok, you don't need to post it 5 times!

Crack on!

Steve

[landroversforever]

Ok, Ok, Ok, you don't need to post it 5 times!

Crack on!

Steve

He did it 5 times as he decided the metal wasn't thick enough each time

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Was done when the forum had just come back on line and was still playng up on new posts

Nige

And no its 8mm

[dirtydiesel]

Doesn't look like those brackets are stiff enough to retain the rad Nige?

A good roll and it could escape.

You could d&t the top pins for some m6 bolts and repair washers?

Or make yourself some new longer alloy pegs for the radiator and cross drill them for R clips?

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

agreed dd

I was not 100% happy with the mounts anyway

when I found the front tube clashed apart from the Bugger factor I did sort of think it was no bad thing ad it meant I had to bin the old new ones !

N

[deep]

What a fascinating read! And I thought I was being adventurous fitting a 3.9 into my old Stage One V8 (a ridiculously easy project by comparison). I feel lucky and inspired all at the same time.

I have a lot of respect for people who do it properly. They end up with what they deserve - decent vehicles with that extra special factor. I don't do things properly. I have a teeny tiny budget....

Don

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Thanks Don

Unfortunately "Properly" didn't apply to the rad Mk1 Mounts !

Mk2 should be fine

Hopefully not "3 bears engineering" 2 x is enough

Anyway

A few peeps have asked about the Rad and the 2 x switching idea

Its like this :

I used to have a 2 x fan set up run off one switch, the fans came on and off, BUT when it was borderline

for them they would kick in and out sometimes every 1/2 sec sometimes several times etc or so, this had a

habit of popping fuses and not to kind to relays.

Whilst I could have say 1 x switch with 3 x prongs giving me 2 x fans with differing on / offs I wnated to get a

closer match to what I THINK might work.

And amongst the vast rangeof "Usefull stuff" at Chateaux Hell I have aquired over the years is a listing of all

M22 x 1.5mm Rad switches (yes I am sad I know)

This is

50100 29 M22 x 1.5 82-68

50101 29 M22 x 1.5 84-79/88-83

50250 29 M22 x 1.5 86-76

50012 29 M22 x 1.5 86-77

50090 29 M22 x 1.5 86-81

50120 29 M22 x 1.5 88-79

50295 29 M22 x 1.5 88-79

50296 29 M22 x 1.5 88-79/110-102

50271 29 M22 x 1.5 88-83

50272 29 M22 x 1.5 88-83

50275 29 M22 x 1.5 88-83

50217 29 M22 x 1.5 88-83/92-87

50091 29 M22 x 1.5 88-83/92-87

50212 29 M22 x 1.5 88-83/92-87

50213 29 M22 x 1.5 88-83/92-87

50216 29 M22 x 1.5 88-83/92-87

50221 29 M22 x 1.5 88-83/92-87

50219 29 M22 x 1.5 88-83/92-97

50240 29 M22 x 1.5 90-80

50110 29 M22 x 1.5 92-82

50111 29 M22 x 1.5 92-82

50112 29 M22 x 1.5 92-82

50113 29 M22 x 1.5 92-82/95-80

50218 29 M22 x 1.5 92-82/97-92

50170 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50200 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50210 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50211 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50220 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50230 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50231 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50235 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50260 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50270 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50280 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50281 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50285 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50290 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87

50215 29 M22 x 1.5 92-87/97-92

50011 29 M22 x 1.5 93-88

50102 29 M22 x 1.5 93-88/97-92

50035 29 M22 x 1.5 95-85/102-92

50130 29 M22 x 1.5 95-86

50030 29 M22 x 1.5 95-90

50033 29 M22 x 1.5 95-90

50061 29 M22 x 1.5 95-90

50062 29 M22 x 1.5 95-90

50160 29 M22 x 1.5 95-90

50092 29 M22 x 1.5 95-90/100-95

50174 29 M22 x 1.5 95-90/100-95

50104 29 M22 x 1.5 97-92

50282 29 M22 x 1.5 97-92

50103 29 M22 x 1.5 97-92/101 -96

50214 29 M22 x 1.5 97-92/102-97

50190 29 M22 x 1.5 100-95

50195 29 M22 x 1.5 100-95

50196 29 M22 x 1.5 100-95

50197 29 M22 x 1.5 100-95

50198 29 M22 x 1.5 100-95/110-105

50000 29 M22 x 1.5 103-98

50013 29 M22 x 1.5 103-98

50014 29 M22 x 1.5 103-98

50191 29 M22 x 1.5 120-115

So, I am having

Fan 1

50090

Remember target is 80-85 degrees.

Fan 1 will thus switch on at 86 degrees, just when it is slightly over target top of 85 degrees, and then will

switch off at 81 degrees (within bottom target).

However, if Fan 1 switches on at 86 degrees and doesn't get it under control and the temp continues to rise then

Fan 2 kicks in with 50272 or 2 or 3 (cheapest which kicks in at 88 degrees and pulls temp down and switches off

at 83 just within mid target range and above Fan 1 which is 81

So, bits now ordered, thoiught others might find the numbers / chart above useful

And its nice to give my anorak a airing now and again

Nige

[discomark10]

I basically have the same setup, 2 fans with 2 different temperature stages for each, but ive also added manual overide to swich them both on and also switch them both off all together for deep wading. I can't remember of the top of my head what temperatures there are set at. Think one was on at 88 the one at 92 but could be wrong

One thing I was thinking is there may be a delay if the thermostatic switches are in the rad so the block might warm up a bit more? Or does it all circulate quite fast?

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Managed to find a couple of hours today to sort out the top mounts

as I really don't like the Rad wobling about loose !

6mm Plate cut 50mm, then cut nearly through, bent, and crack welded up,

welds linished to look like they have ben bent there are 2 piexes each 2 x mounts

20mm hole for standard rubber TIGged 4 x nuts so captive bolts then Welded to the front hoop

Lovely, what it should have been 1st time....nice held firm rubber mounted going nowhere rad

but Hey ho happy now

Next to sort is the Bonnet pins ....somehow

Nige

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Hmmm

Bonnet Pins

"Non"

Qui

oh well

These are now remounted on some new homemade Mountings and just now need to remove the front bar

TIG weld everything up, repaint and bolt back on,

Then its wiring <shudder> and Rad Pipes and Oil Hoses etc and finish off

Work is mad, so can't do much more until bits arrive / clear work !

But happy with rad mounts finally and bonnet closes fine, will fill holes and mounts the locking clips

Nige

[Les Brock]

Hmmm

Bonnet Pins

Then its wiring <shudder> and Rad Pipes and Oil Hoses etc and finish off

Nige

Nige and Wiring ....

This thread might make 100 pages after all

Ok...where my coat

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

...or go up in flames

N

[duncmc]

That is one very impressive radiator Nige, to go with an already impressive engine build!

[TSD]

Nige

I don't want to restart the whole 'how does cooling work?' arguments, but I would think your fans should shut off at the top of your 'ideal' operating temperature range, not at the bottom.

I don't remember what stas you're running, but the fan operating range should not overlap the stat operating range, or the two will be fighting each other.

Also remember it's not trivial to measure the temperature of anything to an accuracy of +/-1C, let alone manufacure a cheap switch to do it, so don't be suprised if your switches operate in the wrong order or at the same temperature.

[Daan]

A good roll and it could escape.

Not everyone drives like gorilla Dan...

The detail in this thread is a good reminder of how involved these projects get. From 'Nige dropping in a 5.2', here we are with a 26 page thread and counting!

Keep at it, Nige your nearly there!

Daan

[discomikey]

Nige

I don't want to restart the whole 'how does cooling work?' arguments, but I would think your fans should shut off at the top of your 'ideal' operating temperature range, not at the bottom.

I don't remember what stas you're running, but the fan operating range should not overlap the stat operating range, or the two will be fighting each other.

Also remember it's not trivial to measure the temperature of anything to an accuracy of +/-1C, let alone manufacure a cheap switch to do it, so don't be suprised if your switches operate in the wrong order or at the same temperature.

if they shut off at the top temp, then theres nothing stopping it overheating, the fan would want to kick in near the top, cool it down a bit and kick out near the bottom so it has some "room" to rise a bit before it gets near overheaty again

[Jon White]

I think you'll find you need to go hotter on the fan switches. I've been through this with my truck and found I had trouble with the fans running almost all the time. I only run a single switch now, and found a 92-87 to be about right with an 82 degree stat.

First question is what thermostat temp are you running? Assuming its an 82 degree one.....

I'd be more inclined to run 92-87 for the low speed and 95-86 for the high speed.

That way if the target is 85 degrees, (normal operation) no fans are running. Slightly warm, and the low speed kicks in. if it goes above 95 then the high speed kicks in and it stays running on high speed until the temp has dropped back to 86 (normal operation). This ensure that if it does get hot that it gets back down to normal temp as soon as possible.

Jon

I suspect you'll find with what you first selected that the fans will run almost constantly at low speed otherwise. All this really ends up doing is wears the fans out.....

Bear in mind that all the quoted switch temps will be approximate - you may have to change them around several times to find what works the best.

Jon

[Bowie69]

Also, switch temperature required will vary depending on location, as yours appear to be in the rad, as said above they will likely need to be higher temperature to stop them running on all the time.

[TSD]

I suspect you'll find with what you first selected that the fans will run almost constantly at low speed otherwise. All this really ends up doing is wears the fans out.....

Thats what happens when you run the fans too close to the stat operating range. The fans have to work extra hard because the stat starts to close as the temperature drops.

Moving the temperaures apart removes the interaction.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Well, much hacking about chopping and filling TIGging and general fabbing work

I have a front end / rad clamps I'm happy with and a bonnet that shuts again !

Also welded up the rectangle that was where the old bonnet srung loaded close / open was / died

As with all things fabrication - I didn't think that would take as long as it did

Now for the switches wiring and plumbing in of oil cooler and fans etc.....

Hopefully I can find some time to crack on when the bits ordered arrive in ..........

Nige

[nicks90]

with such a large free flow oil cooler - how will that affect your oil pressure, especially at engine start?

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

aPPARENTLY IT DOESN'T, THE REVERSE IS TRUE IN THAT POOR QUALITY ONES PUSH PRESSURE UP AND FLOW DOWN !

i HAVE A GAUAGE - WE WILL SEE !

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Argh, kitten + CTL Key = cap locks ON !

[missingsid]

Well don't use the kitten to type with then.

Marc.