Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 OK Tomm the build up starts of the (Porn) 5.2 Triple Plenum John Eales V8 Now, I have the 4.5 at the mo, and that runs hot when worked hard, esp when in the mud etc, the exit underneath becomes solid and then thing get hot and firkin quick I have to sort this out Fitted twin vents on both sides of wings Fitted a High Flow 7 Core rad with increased capacity fitted twin 16 inch Kenlowes And I know at times this lot can still get out of control heat wise. I have no doubts I could have the same if not worse issues with the 5.2 So, options ? I am thinking Oil Cooler ? Also thinking of the Laniva cooler ???? what is it how does it work Electric water pump vs say a V8 Serp pump ??? advantages of this, can you even get one ? How do these fit and work ?? Costs ? Other ideas / options / links would be useful Discuss Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinny Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 Can you fit a second rad behind the first and plum the two in series? Or is that silly? I know the distance / cowl design for the fan can make a big difference to cooling efficency. Will fitting a push and a pull fan work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangeyRover Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 OK Tomm the build up starts of the (Porn) 5.2 Triple Plenum John Eales V8 Now, I have the 4.5 at the mo, and that runs hot when worked hard, esp when in the mud etc, the exit underneath becomes solid and then thing get hot and firkin quick I have to sort this out Fitted twin vents on both sides of wings Fitted a High Flow 7 Core rad with increased capacity fitted twin 16 inch Kenlowes And I know at times this lot can still get out of control heat wise. I have no doubts I could have the same if not worse issues with the 5.2 So, options ? I am thinking Oil Cooler ? Also thinking of the Laniva cooler ???? what is it how does it work Electric water pump vs say a V8 Serp pump ??? advantages of this, can you even get one ? How do these fit and work ?? Costs ? Other ideas / options / links would be useful Discuss Nige Electric water pumps at Demon tweeks here My mate used one on a 3.9 with rear rad on whitbread spaceframe and was very effective. Why cant you have an auxilary rad in the rear, or even on the roof? I think that you should examine the EWP on merit, and the first thing I would do is measure the flow rate of a typical V8 pump at the revs you use it at when it gets hot, and then compare to max EWP flow. My money is that the revs are never above 2K. So the mech water pump is not even waking up. Thats where the EWP comes into its own as it is independent of revs, and demand for pump speed is based on engine temp, rather than revs, although of course the 2 are related. It's not cheap, but then the engine youre using isnt either and I presume that replacing it would cost a sight more than the EWP setup. IIRC my mate hollowed out a v8 water pump so that the belt was still in the right place for other ancillaries. With some thought that could be eliminated too for less friction in the belt. Good Luck RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruuman Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 I'll wait till a proper adult comes along, but... Yes you can get electric pumps, in fact someone had one for sale on this very forum. Think they originally came from drag racing. I don't know if your popping down to any more mud monsters events, but Rupert Deane's new challenge truck has one and has done away with engine driven one completely. But as to if they are any better. Not sure Other idea's, exhaust wrap on the manifolds, made a big difference to my mates stag conversion. 2nd radiator in the rear tube. Run some of this stuff http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10 turn the heater on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 19, 2011 Author Share Posted March 19, 2011 Thanks so far all So, just how is an EWP Fitted Does the existing WP stay or is it removed, or just the internals ? Whats the actaul process of fitment Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinny Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 Thanks so far all So, just how is an EWP Fitted Does the existing WP stay or is it removed, or just the internals ? Whats the actaul process of fitment Nige See here was looking at this earlier today http://www.ifwdc.com/events/2004/tomcat_build/tomcat_build3.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Have you considered an electric fan in the bonnet to suck hot air out of the engine compartment? That exit route shouldn't get blocked with mud! :lol: Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Nige, My 4.2 has a massive aluminium radiator, located behind the cab. Got a pair of fans from either a mondeo td or 306 td (can't remember which one) - with a good couling. I'm running a stock V belt water pump (slightly bigger pulley on the pump, (this made routing my belt easier ), 74 deg stat with 3 x 6mm holes in it. No heater matrix - pipes just looped. My first fan comes on at 84ish deg and the second 91ish (i think the same sender as the x-eng ?). This switch is located in the thermostat housing (unscrew the sender that an air con model comes with). And this is more than enough, the lower temp fan coming on and off. I am yet to have the second fan switch on. Bearing in mind, my truck is always driven in low box and a lot of the time running the hydraulic pump. At the last challenge i had my gearbox oil at over 130 but the engine stayed perfect. Your radiator is located in front, so for road driving surely it'll be excellant ? My 4.6 p38 runs just fine with a standard range rover radiator setup and i drive / tow a heavy load a lot of the time. In answer to your question about EWP's. What you need to do, is get your current pump - remove the impella and make sure the housing is water tight. The pump is then fitted in the bottom hose of the radiator and it pumps away when you give it power. You have to take out the impella due to the difference in flow rates etc. I know boothy runs one, but mine as above is perfect and James' (my winch man) 3.9 with a standard v8 rad in the rear with similar fans and stock pump is also good G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Nige, Is your radiator alloy or copper ?, Allisport quote 20% more efficiency/cooling effect over a standard coper and do custom sizes worth a phonecall ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Put the rad in the back job done you gain about 4 litres of water in the system plus using stainless pipe work is additional cooling and finally it never gets clogged. If anything I had trouble with over cooling with a standard rad on the tomcat Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02jcole Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Ceramic coating the exhaust manifolds to help reduce under bonnet temperatures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Fit a tdi = end of overheating problem!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 I've used electric water pumps on motorbikes - and they replaced the engine driven one. The big plus is that they thus work independent of the engine revs - It should stop that thing where engine loads are high but engine revs are low. I have one that is thermostatically controlled so you put in a temperature and it will adjust its speed to maintain it (providing of course the rest of the system can deliver that temperature) hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road Toad Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Fit a tdi = end of overheating problem!!! Best advise yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Many, many years ago I fitted a BMC 1600 engine to Morris Minor 1,000. I didn't want to let people see it was modified therefore I couldn't get a full radiator in front of the engine. I fitted a Mini radiator at the front to the side of the engine. By brother suggest I get a much water ar possible above the engine. I did with a Ford Transit header tank in where the battery should be. That engine never overheated.... Get as much water above the engine as possible. Big header tank. My ten bobs worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 20, 2011 Author Share Posted March 20, 2011 Fit a tdi = end of overheating problem!!! Hahaha BTW Jon - Hows the starters* on yours then Nige (*Personal Joke ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 I am thinking Oil Cooler ? Also thinking of the Laniva cooler ???? what is it how does it work You can pull out about a third of the engine heat through the oil so definitely worthwhile assuming you can get the oil cooler in a favourable position where the mud won't clog it Laminova is a water/oil heat exchanger, mostly seen these used to cool the oil where there is very effective water cooling available and positioning an oil cooler is problematic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 My ideas were: -Second Rad in the back -Oil Cooler -Turn the bonnet into a sieve, along under the screen, let more hot air up and out of the bonnet. More holes utilizing the hot air rising. (Bonus of a heated screen too . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 -Turn the bonnet into a sieve, along under the screen, let more hot air up and out of the bonnet. More holes utilizing the hot air rising. (Bonus of a heated screen too . This may cool the engine nicely, but does have a habit of steaming up the outside of the windscreen in rain/after driving through water.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 You can pull out about a third of the engine heat through the oil That's a good bit of info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 besides using a decent uprated ally radiator - you could always add a water wetter, like the redline stuff. Between the 2 of them i would say you would get a significant cooling boost. Might be worth investing in a nice oil cooler with a small motorbike fan on the back and mounting that in a small cowl on one side of your bonnet, with some longish flexi hoses so they dont strain when you open the bonnet etc. Would also serve to draw in additional air into the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Water wetter is an excellent product Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 This may cool the engine nicely, but does have a habit of steaming up the outside of the windscreen in rain/after driving through water.... Surely if its raining, or you've driven through water, the wipers will be going? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Yep, BUT... the steam is enough to steam it up so badly the wipers won't cope, and in between wipes it will steam over again.... If you've been through watery mud, it takes longer to dry onto the engine, but it still steams for ages and ages and ages..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 -Turn the bonnet into a sieve, along under the screen, let more hot air up and out of the bonnet. More holes utilizing the hot air rising. (Bonus of a heated screen too . From what I've seen of Nige charging through water this would give additional cooling due to water coming IN through the holes. Kinda internal and external water cooling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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